Wood Finishes on DIY projects

[kach22i]

Application: Interior use, new wood, Baltic Birch Plywood with exposed edges.

Availability: First off I don't even know if I can get real varnish any more (Carver-Tripp is gone). All the stuff on the shelves looks like the exterior marine grade with UV protectant added. Special order for interior grade stuff, wait a week or do a couple hours of driving and burn some gas.

Why I like Varnish: gives wood a honey glow, some call it amber.

Why I don't like Varnish: the honey glow goes away after a few years, and the wood looks lighter, bleached out. Some call say it clouds. Also it may have a longer drying time.

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Why I like Polyurethane: I can get MinWax clear satin anywhere, anytime. It is supposed to be more stable color wise than Varnish and more durable.

Why I don't like Polyurethane: it gives wood a reddish hue (oil based stuff does this) and looks flat, dry or dead when compared to varnish (even the glossy does not have the same depth of sheen). It's plastic, right? Now your wood looks plastic or fake, and it feels different than varnish. Varnish has a natural smoothness, Polyurethane is more rubbery, not as hard shell like (guess it may not scratch or chip as easily?).

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I'm looking to hear from die hard fans of varnish.

I'm looking to hear from the converts who now swear by oil based polyurethane.

I'm looking to hear from those who have gone green and trust the water-born alternatives.

Old varnish/plywood project:

 

[wineslob]

I'm a firm believer in the wipe-on poly. Easy to apply, and the results are very close to a "pro" finish.
Here is a project I made for my wife 2 years ago (christmas present/don't mind the dust ):

After 2 years of my wife and daughter using it as a dining table (they eat at it while watching TV) it still looks great.

 

[amirm]

I don't rely on protective finish for color. Instead, I put on a coat of Minwax oil which I wipe on. Let that dry. And then I put multiple coats of wipe on Poly. The water based poly doesn't yellow so doesn't impact the base color.

 

[kach22i]

Thanks for the input, and I like the amber over reddish hue just to be clear. A clear finish on this rather blond wood I'm working with.

I talked to "the wood guy" at the local hardware store (Stadium) who claims to spend most of his time at his real job ankle deep in wood shavings.

Per his suggestion I'm going to try a couple coats of sealer (alcohol based) and a top coat of oil based polyurethane. Theory has it that the sealer will give it that amber hue I like, but the sealer is sensitive to cleaners and chemicals and should be protected. That is were a top coat of polyurethane comes in.

He also warned me away from steel wool because over time residue may oxidize and discolor the wood. Suggested fine sandpapering between coats if I must (like a car finish).

One important factor I forgot is that 11 years ago when I built my own office furniture out of Baltic Birch plywood I did the varnishing at midnight in the office, and cracked open the windows. This project is being built in my basement, with a wife and cat in the home. The sealer smells a little like a good but sweet bourbon, and the polyurethane is mild compared to the fumes varnish puts out.

I've read at least one vote against Minwax as a brand, the shelves are full of other brands. Name a few you like better.

I'll post the test pieces in a few days.

This wood finishing is for my no-box loudspeaker experiment/prototype.

 

[dougsmith]

I like this for a rich penetrating oil finish:

I tried Minwax fast drying polyurethane, but I think it dries too fast (and unevenly on vertical surfaces). I like Zar semigloss poly better for surface protection.

The other thing that works nicely for an even deeper finish is Watco danish oil followed by a 3-4 coats of GF topcoat and then one coat of poly.

 

[Wardsweb]

I have used Deft lacquer for years and really like it. Goes on easy, dries quick, can be sanded and your number of coats lets you pick you final finish from more wood grain to professional furniture smooth.

Here is a corner horn I was building. Book matched pre-ban Brazilian rosewood.

 

[Wardsweb]

The finished speakers

 

[Wardsweb]

Same finish but in high gloss and about 12 coats. This many coats while dry to the touch in a few hours requires a couple weeks to really setup hard. Veneer is sapele pommele.

 

[Wardsweb]

Semi-gloss this time on a custom amp veneered with cocobola.

 

[dougsmith]

Looks great! Is that brushed on or sprayed?

 

[Wardsweb]

Looks great! Is that brushed on or sprayed?

The rosewood and cocobola are rattle can sprayed. The sapele was brushed for a few coats, sanded, brushed, sanded and final two coats were sprayed.

 

[kach22i]

I was hoping Wardsweb would see this post.

I don't think that I've ever used lacquer, except on my 1966 Mustang in an Oldsmobile blue, and even then someone else shot it.

Lacquer is typically sprayed on, right?

How well does it stand up to cleaners, waxes, water drops and finger prints?

When compared to oil based polyurethane or real old fashion varnish where does it score?

 

[amirm]

He also warned me away from steel wool because over time residue may oxidize and discolor the wood. Suggested fine sandpapering between coats if I must (like a car finish).

He gave good advice. I never use steel wool as it can also rust with water based finishes. Instead, I use ultra-fine sandpaper or 3M scotch-bright pads that comes in different grades now. This is easier on your hands also than steel wool.

One important factor I forgot is that 11 years ago when I built my own office furniture out of Baltic Birch plywood I did the varnishing at midnight in the office, and cracked open the windows. This project is being built in my basement, with a wife and cat in the home. The sealer smells a little like a good but sweet bourbon, and the polyurethane is mild compared to the fumes varnish puts out.

Please be careful. These fumes can be very harmful even if the fumes don't smell bad. In general though, water based finishes are much better than oil. When in a bind, I finish them in a bathroom with the fan on. And wear a respirator as I apply it.

I've read at least one vote against Minwax as a brand, the shelves are full of other brands. Name a few you like better.

I like them for penetrating oil. For Poly, Varathane water-based got very nice reviews years ago in one of the woodworking magazines. I have used it as top coat and it was quite nice.

 

[Wardsweb]

...snip... Lacquer is typically sprayed on, right?

How well does it stand up to cleaners, waxes, water drops and finger prints?

When compared to oil based polyurethane or real old fashion varnish where does it score?

DEFT comes in both spray cans and brush on. I mostly use raw veneer so the first couple of coats are more of a base. You can use sanding sealer and you won't need as many coats when spraying.

Spraying is the easiest to master. The only real tip is it works best above 65 degrees. Below that you have to be careful about orange peel when spraying. The nice thing is it can always be block sanded to get a ultra smooth finish, polished or use a final spray coat. Don't over work it when brushing. It's not like paint. Use long smooth strokes in one direction.

Brushing will allow you to build thick coats quickly. They take longer to dry and depending on how thick may take weeks to fully cure. Thick coats can get a little wavy, but again can be block sanded same day to even it out.

This goes clear and stays that way. It holds up well to normal handling, beads water and no finger prints unless your going high glosss. Even then just wipe off.

I would only use lacquer for interior. I did my front doors (solid mahogany) with polyurethane to handle harsh weather. Polys can get a very high gloss quicker and can also be polished with things like 3M Perfect-It. I don't use varnishes, so can't give any info.

 

[kach22i]

I picked up some real varnish and real lacquer at an out of the way (for me) hardware store I was passing by.

More test strips are on the way.

The same store also has spray cans of both, but different brands.

 

[kach22i]

I did a test batch of lacquer and one of varnish at the same time. Less than 1-SQ. Ft. of surface material area, and after cleaning the brushes I had to leave the house. The fumes were that bad even after taking the cleaning rags outside.

The lacquer reminds me of model airplane dope I used to use on tissue paper covered balsa framed aircraft when I was a teenager. Cheap buzz but not the intended result.

The shellac sealer with a polyurethane top coat is almost as nice as what I can do with varnish alone, and that is close to lacquer without evicting every living thing from the house for several hours.

 

[Wardsweb]

An incredible ultra high gloss finish is epoxy. Normally used for bar tops but they make a resin that isn't as hard (you're not going to slide glasses around on it) and cheaper.

http://steebar.com/Supplies/Epoxy.html

 

[GlennK]

I do a lot of woodworking, and use a lot of Sam Maloof's recipe for finishes, 1/3 Linseed Oil, 1/3 Pure Tung Oil, 1/3 Spar Varnish. It takes quite a bit of coats but it's more of a wipe on, wait a few minutes, wipe off, it's not meant to be left wet on the wood. Of couse, I almost always use 1 or 2 lb cut of shellac as a basecoat/sealer.

 

[kach22i]

Sam Maloof's recipe for finishes, 1/3 Linseed Oil, 1/3 Pure Tung Oil, 1/3 Spar Varnish.

I've read about this one before, sounds very interesting.