Contact Cleaning: The Right Stuff

Miles, what do you clean the power cords with?

Sorry must have missed the question.

As I detailed elsewhere before. First I clean the plug with a Qtip and Gorham Silver polish paste (not the liquid!!!) and then wash it off with distilled water. Then I dry the prongs and then reclean the connection with Kontak. Much better than Kontak alone (that is the best single cleaner I've used). Been doing it that way for decades. :)
 
I cannot comment on the Mapleshade silver product, but a side story.

I came out of the high voltage at high current world.

The difference between a happy long lived connection and a big molten mass of melted copper and glass was the application of a very tiny amount of silver bearing grease at high contract pressure joints.

Worked great on the service truck starting and charging system wiring too. In the dead of winter it was the difference between a sure fast start or needing a jump.

Not ever on switch wafers BTW!

Cyclotronguy
 
I cannot comment on the Mapleshade silver product, but a side story.

I came out of the high voltage at high current world.

The difference between a happy long lived connection and a big molten mass of melted copper and glass was the application of a very tiny amount of silver bearing grease at high contract pressure joints.

Worked great on the service truck starting and charging system wiring too. In the dead of winter it was the difference between a sure fast start or needing a jump.

Not ever on switch wafers BTW!

Cyclotronguy

Not sure if you're referring to my post? :) I'm not talking about silver contact enhancers, just stuff used to clean silverware. :)
 
Excellent post Tom.

The only difference I have is with the Dill's premium pipe cleaners. I find the BJ Long cleaners are the best. Minor criticism admittedly.

Also the Signet RCA cleaners work very well.
 
Excellent post Tom.

The only difference I have is with the Dill's premium pipe cleaners. I find the BJ Long cleaners are the best. Minor criticism admittedly.

Also the Signet RCA cleaners work very well.


You'll get no argument from me about the Signet cleaners. They do work well because they are a bit abrasive. I just operate the plug/jack connection a few times before I clean it with chemicals to get the mechanical wiping action without using the Signet tool. I'm uncomfortable using the Signet tool over and over again, so they get inordinately expensive compared to pipe cleaners. The contamination cleaned off by the tool tends to stay on or in the tool. Of course, you can clean the Signet tool with pipe cleaners dipped in your favorite cleaner, but I like to start fresh with a new pipe cleaner for each jack or plug.

Further experimentation over the intervening years since I wrote the original post have led me to conclude that the Caig 100% brush-on Deoxit Gold is sonically just as good as any of their other products IF you use just the lightest coat you can apply with the brush and wait about a week or more while it "cures" to assess its sonic effects. When you dip the brush in the bottle, wipe the brush on the edge of the neck of the bottle as you would do with a paint brush when you want to get just a minimal amount of paint on the brush.

The spray-on versions "cure" in about four days/100 hours. It really doesn't matter with those how much you spray on. Most of the liquid is not the "active ingredient anyway.

In comparison to the 100% brush on version of DeOxit Gold, the spray-on versions are MUCH messier in terms of the residue they leave behind. If you want to clean up, say, the back panel of equipment where you have sprayed a bunch of Deoxit-Gold so that the equipment will be in presentable condition (such as for sale or a picture preparing for a sale), wet a paper towel with Windex and use that paper towel to wipe off the oily residue. One Windex treatment will usually clean up all the residue. You will need to re-treat the equipment with DeOxit Gold following that cleaning if you plan to continue to use it since it is impossible to clean up all the residue without getting Windex on or even inside the jacks. Let the Windex totally dry before attempting to reapply DeOxit Gold. You may want to do intermediary cleanings of the jacks with distilled water and/or rubbing alcohol before you re-treat the jacks with DeOxit Gold.

In answer to a question, in my experience, the high-heat and regular 5% spray-on versions have about the same sonic effect, I've found. The high-heat version leaves more oily residue and is thus messier. But I've found the positive sonic effects of the high-heat version to last longer and to survive more plugging/unplugging cycles than the less-expensive regular version. The 100% stuff seems to last longest, not surprisingly since the challenge with it is getting just the minimal amount you can on the connection in the first place.

Of course, the brush on version is far, far neater in terms of visible residue it leaves. In fact, one way to tell if it is likely "cured" is to look around the connections you treated. If you can't see any residue, it's probably "cured." If you can, you either put on too much, or keep waiting for "the cure."

At least the way I apply the various versions, the 100% brush-on is also the least expensive version. That tiny vial should last you a long, long time and many hundreds of treated connections.
 
So, what is the preferred solution for cleaning rca's, xlr's etc. Still Koontak and/or Deoxit progold or?
 
So, what is the preferred solution for cleaning rca's, xlr's etc. Still Koontak and/or Deoxit progold or?

I wrote my original comments some six years ago now. In the interim I have mostly just avoided the problem of dirty jacks and plugs by buying new equipment and immediately treating all the unsoldered connections I can easily get to with Caig Deoxit Gold (formerly known as ProGold). I've also settled on using the brush-on liquid version since it is much less messy in terms of the residue it leaves on equipment panels around the jacks from "overspray" since there is no spraying going on. You have to use a very light coat, and it may take a bit longer to "cure," but it is seemingly even more sonically effective than the spray on versions once cured. The brush-on version (100L) is also much more economical. One small bottle will treat hundreds of connections if applied sparingly.
 
I wrote my original comments some six years ago now. In the interim I have mostly just avoided the problem of dirty jacks and plugs by buying new equipment and immediately treating all the unsoldered connections I can easily get to with Caig Deoxit Gold (formerly known as ProGold). I've also settled on using the brush-on liquid version since it is much less messy in terms of the residue it leaves on equipment panels around the jacks from "overspray" since there is no spraying going on. You have to use a very light coat, and it may take a bit longer to "cure," but it is seemingly even more sonically effective than the spray on versions once cured. The brush-on version (100L) is also much more economical. One small bottle will treat hundreds of connections if applied sparingly.

Just did it. Thank you! I just emailed someone that it is a nice uptick. Voices/vocals in the background of deep house actually become more understandable. i literally can hear the actual words, whereas before i could not quite make out what they were saying despite efforts to do so. i just described it to someone as not a 'must have'...but rather for the cost and 30-40 minutes of effort...a DEFINITE 'WHY NOT HAVE'?

thank you for bringing this to our attention, and for the detailed explanations.
 
Thanks, Tom, for recommending Deoxit GX5 Gold!

It works great, with significant sonic improvements, as testified on my system page (post # 86 and following):

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?17334-My-minimonitor-subwoofer-system/page9

I suppose with the liquid form the procedure is similar as with the spray I used. I treated the surfaces and then 'worked' them (according to instructions on the can), i.e. pushing in/pulling out interconnectors once or twice, and tightening/loosening speaker connections, in order to get friction metal on metal. Then I also wiped the connections. After a few minutes I applied again, and after waiting a bit once more for drying I tightened the connections.
 
Thanks, Tom, for recommending Deoxit GX5 Gold!

It works great, with significant sonic improvements, as testified on my system page (post # 86 and following):

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?17334-My-minimonitor-subwoofer-system/page9

I suppose with the liquid form the procedure is similar as with the spray I used. I treated the surfaces and then 'worked' them (according to instructions on the can), i.e. pushing in/pulling out interconnectors once or twice, and tightening/loosening speaker connections, in order to get friction metal on metal. Then I also wiped the connections. After a few minutes I applied again, and after waiting a bit once more for drying I tightened the connections.

After hearing what the DeoxIT spray did for Al's system, I ordered a bottle of DeoxIT Gold G100L with brush on applicator. I completely dismantled my system and first cleaned all connections (male and female) with alcohol, wiped dry, and then brushed on a very thin layer of DeoxIT on all connections. It took over two hours. It also gave me a chance to dust and clean my rack and all gear. I've learned that once the Pass preamp and phono are unplugged, they take a couple of days to sound their best again. So I will keep everything powered on and listen for a few days. I'm sorry to read that it may take up to a week to fully settle. Thanks Tom for the great information.
 
After hearing what the DeoxIT spray did for Al's system, I ordered a bottle of DeoxIT Gold G100L with brush on applicator. I completely dismantled my system and first cleaned all connections (male and female) with alcohol, wiped dry, and then brushed on a very thin layer of DeoxIT on all connections. It took over two hours. It also gave me a chance to dust and clean my rack and all gear. I've learned that once the Pass preamp and phono are unplugged, they take a couple of days to sound their best again. So I will keep everything powered on and listen for a few days. I'm sorry to read that it may take up to a week to fully settle. Thanks Tom for the great information.

You can try playing an energetic CD such as the Purist Audio CD enhancer to fasten settling. I had the same problem with Soundlab's every time I powered them down, and I can confirm that playing this CD was really effective - just for fun I once tried playing just on of the speakers and after two hours there was a clear shift of the image towards the speaker that was being energized. When using Purist Audio CD enhancer on electronics I usually replace the speakers with dummy 100 ohm 20W resistors - the signal from this CD is really unpleasant. BTW, you can use this CD in a phono using an attenuator with an inverse RIAA filter.
 
You can try playing an energetic CD such as the Purist Audio CD enhancer to fasten settling. I had the same problem with Soundlab's every time I powered them down, and I can confirm that playing this CD was really effective - just for fun I once tried playing just on of the speakers and after two hours there was a clear shift of the image towards the speaker that was being energized. When using Purist Audio CD enhancer on electronics I usually replace the speakers with dummy 100 ohm 20W resistors - the signal from this CD is really unpleasant. BTW, you can use this CD in a phono using an attenuator with an inverse RIAA filter.

I appreciate the good suggestion, Micro, but I no longer have a CD player.
 
Well, it has been a couple of days since I took apart my system and cleaned all of the male and female connections with DeoxIT Gold contact cleaner. When I listened shortly after reassembling the system, I heard slightly more resolution and clarity in the upper frequencies but the bass was pretty weak. A day later I could hear the potential of greater resolution all around but it was not until later today, two full days later, that the system is sounding good again. Resolution has certainly improved, along with cleaner highs, and more overall clarity. Dynamics have improved slightly, the bass is fuller, more extended and has more weight. Ray Brown's bass lines are easier to hear. String textures have improved. Timbral accuracy makes the members of a string quartet sound more distinct and separate. Saxophones are reedier. Trombones have more blat. I had a friend over this afternoon and he remarked that the musical message comes through more clearly than before. One hears "more" content but what is really neat is that the musician's intent seems to be more understandable. Overall sound is more natural resulting in less listening to the system and more listening to the music.

Along with the recent removal of glass from the artwork in my listening room, this tweak has made the biggest improvement in the last few years to my slowly evolving system. It is similar to a cartridge/arm being properly aligned instead of poorly set up. Everything just sounds more in focus and like music. It sounds more correct, less veiled. For about $32 and the time it took to apply it, I feel as though the system has a new freshness and is more involving. That is saying a lot as far as I'm concerned. It's a very worthwhile improvement. I have auditioned cables, cartridges, and electronics that did not make this much of an improvement. Different certainly, but not clearly better. This is clearly better. Thank you Al M. for encouraging me to try it.

I hope this does not attract the attention of Ron's Hyperbole Police.
 
I invited my good friend and audio buddy, David, over for a listen the other night. He was kind to take the time to write down his listening impressions and to share them with me. With his permission, I post them here to give readers a sense of the effect of the most recent change to my system: the cleaning of all male and female contacts in my system with the DeoxIT Gold contact cleaner. Here is David's wonderfully descriptive write up of his listening impressions and the effect of the DeoxIT treatment:

"Often I hear changes in your [Peter’s] system within a split second. This session was one of those times.

I believe it’s due to the very careful attention you —and Jim Smith— have paid to detail in setup and room amendments. It may also have something to do with how familiar I have become with your system over the years, a direct consequence of your generosity in so often hosting me as a listener. Either way, your system and room are so well tuned that changes are easily detected.

Immediately I felt a different sense of presence with the Janaki String Trio, showing specifically as a far superior rendition of the resonant sound boxes of the string instruments which sounded much more realistic, more whole-some than in the past.

Violin, in particular, was rendered in more balanced form. In the past, the resonance and texture of the violin has been represented almost exclusively by the sound of strings with a wee bit of wood from the instrument and occasionally the bow. This session revealed violins to sound as though their bodies were now a full and, in fact, commanding part of the instrument’s sound.

Using my audio axiom that you don't know what you've missed until you hear it, I have to say that I was unaware how little of the resonance of the wooden part of the violin was previously being added to the impression of string music. This change was not subtle; it was pronounced. I felt for the first time that I was listening to the entire instrument; strings, neck, body and bow. This was a revealing experience.

Another positive aspect of the system's change was extension. Lower frequencies, occasionally not thunderous in the past, were rendered with greater clarity, extension and convincing variety. It's been my experience that greater information in the 'low end' can result in an increased impression of tunefulness. (that's now officially a word) This time there was an impression of greater extension: more space around the string bass and noticeably greater information in texture, and sound —quality and amount— along with a commensurate improvement in wood texture from the bass’s sound chamber.

Extension was not limited to low frequencies. Switching to Way Out West introduced cymbals that showed their heels to past renditions: brass had both more of the kind of shimmer demonstrated by cymbals in live performance and a refinement of decay that forced me to smile and exclaim.

Saxaphone sound, one of Albrecht's reference points, again proved my axiom. I didn't know that previous renditions of sax had been colored --a little too saxy-- by which I mean the resonance sounded good, until we heard the post-treatment presentation which just sounded more real; less theatrical if you will. Specifically the bark of the horn came from a little way up into the horn and sounded very natural. I didn't know how much I was looking for a 'hi-fi sound' when listening to saxaphone, but this presentation set me straight.

Two other aspects of playback were also very substantially improved: the first, a solidification of the image, placed both Muddy Waters and Buddy Guy more solidly, or palpably, in the studio space than in past presentations. The second improvement is a little harder to describe because it involves the impression often described as 'sound stage' but it was more than that. Instruments sounded more solidly positioned in place but also this resulted in a more convincing 'presence' or palpability. I felt more cued by ambience than in the past which showed as a more vivid experience of being transported to the recording space, instead of feeling the musicians were in the room or that I was in a listening session.

Each one of these changes led, both individually and together, to a substantially stronger musicality in our listening session. I felt the music more. That's a direction I always prefer.

To that end, I would only add that the system’s presentation gave me a clearer and stronger, more convincing and refined sense of the performer’s intention in their crafting of performances. Peter has used the word ‘intelligibility’ and I feel this tweak presented the music, and the lntellect behind the musicians’ performance far more transparently. I have a friend who is a professional violinist. When she plays, I can hear her intention in each note —every single note. That’s what I take Peter to mean with the word ‘intelligibility’; that the intention, intellectual and spiritual, is easily discerned.

Despite the descriptive prose, throughout this session I felt liberated to feel the music, and revel in the performance and its intelligibility; sonic effects pushed me to this relatively rare and unfamiliar place. This was particularly evident on the Janaki String Trio LP, sounding to me as though I could hear them feeling, but also thinking their way through the performance while they played off each other at the same time.

This was a really memorable listening session, for all the right reasons: the music was varied, so it tested the system; the system became transparent to the music’s meaning and the musician’s thought and performance intentions, and the sonic effects, system wide, were made fully subservient to feeling the performance, the musician’s involvement and being transported to the venue.

I ordered the product, and hope it will provide the same degree of improvement in my system as it did in yours, Peter. Thank you, again, and thanks to Albrecht [Al M.] for finding and sharing this product. Can't wait to try it first hand.

It's a refinement, substantive, satisfying and brought more fun, intimacy, credibility and musicality to my experience of the music."
 
So it is not necessary to apply De-Oxit and Progold to circuit box breaker that is dedicated to audio my stereo system
 
In my original post on this topic I noted that any connection which is gas tight does not need treatment. Circuit breakers can easily make a gas tight connection. Thus, I don't treat circuit breaker connections. Here's what I wrote before and I'll stick with that:

"The solid copper house wiring at your electrical box will look surprisingly good, in my experience. Rarely will such connections acquire heavy tarnish. It could be that higher current flow keeps these connections cleaner than others. Also, typical circuit breakers EASILY produce a gas-tight connection on solid copper wiring with just a screw driver to tighten the wire into the circuit breaker. You can tell this since you can see the spot on the wire where the connector has slightly nicked and deformed the solid copper house wiring. That nick will always be shiny clean. Would that all non-soldered audio connections could be so tightened!

"House wiring at the outlet will also usually look pretty good. With decent outlets it is possible to get gas-tight connections which will not tarnish or corrode if you tighten them sufficiently with a screwdriver or use the back-wiring option, in which case a good outlet will nick the wire a bit and thus create a gas-tight connection."
 
I assume you are referring to rhodium plated speaker terminals, since that's the primary use of rhodium plating in audio systems. Some think rhodium plating is sonically superior to gold, but most line level connections still use gold plating, perhaps because gold's resistance to tarnish is even better than rhodium's.

Rhodium is an extremely hard metal. Most wire terminations are not rhodium plated, but gold plated. Because of these factors, it is difficult to tighten a wire/spade/pin/ring/banana connection tight enough to deform the rhodium plated speaker terminal so as get a gas-tight connection. Therefore, I do recommend using Deoxit-Gold on rhodium connections. (And as explained in an earlier post of mine in this thread, I currently favor the lightest possible coat of the paint-on liquid version of Deoxit-Gold rather than any of the spray-on varieties.)

Relatively soft, malleable metals make gas-tight connections easier to achieve. Thus, a copper binding post (e.g., the Edison Price Music Post) used with copper or direct-gold-plated copper wire termination could easily be tightened enough to make a gas-tight connection by deforming the surfaces of the connectors a bit by tightening. The problem is that pure copper wires and the unplated versions of the Edison Price binding post tarnish very quickly and don't look as "pretty" as bright silver (rhodium) plated or gold plated binding posts even when brand new.

[FONT=&amp]Incidentally, the accepted wisdom in high-end audio circles for many years has been that spade lugs provides the best-sounding wire termination connections. However, Benchmark Media claims that the best sounding (as in lowest distortion) connections are made with SpeakOn connections (used in many or even most pro-audio speakers), followed by locking banana plugs. Here's what Benchmark says on its website:

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"In our lab tests we have found that heavy-duty 40-amp SpeakON™ connectors consistently outperform spade lugs, pins, and banana plugs. The SpeakON™ connectors provide a reliable low-impedance connection that can withstand high-currents. Of the more traditional speaker connectors, we have found that locking banana plugs provide the next best connections. In contrast, spade lugs and pins often provide poor connections. Spring-type (non-locking) banana plugs almost always provide poor connections and should be avoided.
"The Benchmark AHB2 power amplifier is so clean that poor speaker connections can easily create more distortion than the entire power amplifier. We have seen this many times in the lab. The effects of poor speaker connections can easily be measured when testing the AHB2 power amplifier. We have learned that we cannot accurately measure the AHB2 unless we use SpeakON™ connectors or high-quality locking banana connectors."
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