That was my reaction to “tweek fatigue”. It’s the speculative comments from those who refuse to try a product that are the most fatiguing. They are a drag for everyone participating.
QSA : My take on their expensive products
- Thread starter CKKeung
- Start date
Anyone else noticed a reduction in bass from the QSA plugs? Since I could A/B them so fast, it was easier to spot than with the fuses. It’s been quite a while since I’ve used any of the QSA fuses but the red and red/black are now for sale used at half price…seriously considering this, but if the plug bass reduction that I experienced with Yellow is part of their signature sound it wouldn’t be worth it for me.
I had the yellow fuse and plug but upgraded both to the violet. There is a considerable improvement in the violet over the yellow in every aspect. I agree, the yellow sounded a little thin and that’s why I upgraded to the violet. I have only heard great things about the red/black fuses and plugs and at that price point, I might take a look at them. Are the fuses half price on the QSA site?
Seriously?
You can get a lot of psychiatric visits for this price.
You can get a lot of psychiatric visits for this price.
Unfortunately, yes. I have a Red laying around that is too thin/bright for my SS amp. I think these were designed for tube components that already have a thick sound. To me it sounds a little like what I associate with a change in impedance, tilting the frequency spectrum away from the bass and towards the treble.
What sort of plugs are these? I don't see them at the QSA site, and my experience with plugs, at least the kind for open ports, was nothing special.
I thought I’d share some impressions of using their Power Jitter (Violet) in my AV system. This system features a 77” LG OLED, Marantz SR6015 receiver, Panasonic ub820 disc spinner and ELAC Uni-Fi speakers. A Shunyata Delta v1 feeds a Shunyata Hydra AV power distributor from the wall.
The first Power Jitter went into the wall. The primary goal was to improve video quality but any gains in audio would be welcomed too. My goal was more than met as this Power Doohickey brought improvements to both video and audio. Improvements were immediately seen and heard but further gains came that first week.
The audio improvements surprised me as I really wasn’t expecting much. Things took a step towards a more organic sound. Voices especially sounded more human with intelligibility slightly improved. Spatially it seemed as if things had taken a nice step in a more holographic direction. Atmos in particular seemed to appreciate the nudge it got from the Power Jitter as overhead effects became more believable as far as them actually being overhead.
As far as video improvements, I should first mention that the 77” OLED replaced a 65” OLED earlier this year. I did observe what seemed like a loss in perceived resolution with the larger panel. Not surprising given that the larger panel has reduced pixel density as the same number of pixels spread out over a larger area. I still have the 65” OLED so I had been often reminded of this. To my surprise, that violet Power Doohickey turned out to be somewhat of a game changer as far as the resolving abilities of the larger panel. With really good source material, what that larger panel can resolve is quite stunning. [The 4K disc of Blade Runner 2049 shows off the improvements really well].
Last weeks I added a second violet jitter - this time to the end of the 77” OLED’s captive power cord. Immediately I heard an improvement in sound quality (when streaming using the TV’s smart capabilities). Voices coming from the center channel speaker were again more intelligible but contributing to this wasn’t just improved tone and timbre. Imaging got a boost as well, with the voice having more of a three dimensional quality.
Video didn’t initially seem to improve as much as I hoped it would. It was only after I removed it that I realized how it had been contributing. Vibrancy took a loss after I did that. It wasn’t subtle either.
Now when I look back to the 65” OLED, I see an inferior picture. It’s flatter, less vibrant and somewhat grainy - as if it’s getting starved of good power. These Power Jitters really do bring improvements and one doesn’t have to spend top dollars to both see and hear the improvements.
The first Power Jitter went into the wall. The primary goal was to improve video quality but any gains in audio would be welcomed too. My goal was more than met as this Power Doohickey brought improvements to both video and audio. Improvements were immediately seen and heard but further gains came that first week.
The audio improvements surprised me as I really wasn’t expecting much. Things took a step towards a more organic sound. Voices especially sounded more human with intelligibility slightly improved. Spatially it seemed as if things had taken a nice step in a more holographic direction. Atmos in particular seemed to appreciate the nudge it got from the Power Jitter as overhead effects became more believable as far as them actually being overhead.
As far as video improvements, I should first mention that the 77” OLED replaced a 65” OLED earlier this year. I did observe what seemed like a loss in perceived resolution with the larger panel. Not surprising given that the larger panel has reduced pixel density as the same number of pixels spread out over a larger area. I still have the 65” OLED so I had been often reminded of this. To my surprise, that violet Power Doohickey turned out to be somewhat of a game changer as far as the resolving abilities of the larger panel. With really good source material, what that larger panel can resolve is quite stunning. [The 4K disc of Blade Runner 2049 shows off the improvements really well].
Last weeks I added a second violet jitter - this time to the end of the 77” OLED’s captive power cord. Immediately I heard an improvement in sound quality (when streaming using the TV’s smart capabilities). Voices coming from the center channel speaker were again more intelligible but contributing to this wasn’t just improved tone and timbre. Imaging got a boost as well, with the voice having more of a three dimensional quality.
Video didn’t initially seem to improve as much as I hoped it would. It was only after I removed it that I realized how it had been contributing. Vibrancy took a loss after I did that. It wasn’t subtle either.
Now when I look back to the 65” OLED, I see an inferior picture. It’s flatter, less vibrant and somewhat grainy - as if it’s getting starved of good power. These Power Jitters really do bring improvements and one doesn’t have to spend top dollars to both see and hear the improvements.
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For picture quality, an Audioquest Vodka HDMI and a good power cord, if the TV can take it, do wonders. If one has cable, Jensen Transformers makes a good inline filter (VRD-1FF), but even better is the TII 220 coaxial isolator.
Look at Tweek Geek
Tweeks - Page 2 - Tweek Geek
www.tweekgeek.com
Thanks. How much time did you give them to settle? I wouldn't go for something like that, but if I did I would expect the same length of burn in time as a power cord, since that's essentially what it is.
Yes, looking at that small thing from the outside, one might think how long can it really need. But I can't recall the last time anything among the dozens of products I've had here, from fuses to cables to components, took only 100 hours to burn in. 200 minimum, commonly 225-300 hrs. Have a pair of WE 300B tubes that finally blossomed last night at 298 hours and continued to develop during the course of the evening, suggesting they were hardly finished. That little plug is like a power fuse; it needs a full power component burn in. There's a reason pro reviewers don't start serious listening until 200-300 hours or more. Patience is Required.
Afterthought: Looking at the write up at Tweek Geek, Mike says the farther up the chain the model, the longer the burn in needed. I'd go with standard burn in time or at least until the sound stabilizes across a few days.
Afterthought: Looking at the write up at Tweek Geek, Mike says the farther up the chain the model, the longer the burn in needed. I'd go with standard burn in time or at least until the sound stabilizes across a few days.
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i am satisfied with the Reds in my ATC speakers (vs. SR Orange). Will be seeing in the next few weeks about red and red/black in other components.
At their prices, maybe QSA Could provide the fuses pre- burned? Or do they need to be run-in on the specific component they’ll be used in?
I’m not sure how well buying a used, handled fuse would go over, but to the degree they’re sold through dealers and sit around, they’d still have to be re-burned in, commonly 100 hours or more in my experience.
I’m wondering what actually is burning in on a fuse? Electrons re-arranging themselves? I’m not doubting they need it, but would like to know what’s happening.
What a joke.......I'd like to introduce everyone to my new Crypto currency investment..... Please call ASAP....
I hate to say it but the same could be said for tube swaping.
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