All of these new tubes these days stink. I will always go NOS with any and all tubes I need.
A few years back, I had an old converted and heavily modified Baldwin organ amplifier that required TWO 5U4G's. After rolling in a few new and old tubes, the absolute best ones were a matched pair of NOS Westinghouse 5U4G's with a quad set coin-base Russian 6N3C-E (6L6GC equivalent) output tubes.
Those particular 5U4G's added weight, grip as well as added space and air to the overall sound. It made that amp sound a lot more powerful than it's 23-28 watt output. At the time, I was powering a pair of NHT 2.9's with it and that amp had zero problems getting them to pretty loud levels... Cleanly.
All of the other 5U4G's that I tried just sucked the power and life out of that amp. It was weak, anemic, had background noise and just blah sounding. Those newer tubes included EH, Mesa, Psvane, Shuguang, and some JJ's. Oh, and some Golden Dragon's that didn't even fit because the envelope was too large.
I really miss that amp and wish I still had it, but it was my oldest brother's amp and I just had it a few months to make the repairs/mods/upgrades to it and run it through its paces before giving it back to him.