PAP trio 15 with coax. Horn is on a shelf. I would like to sell the horn. I prefer the coax.
I deoxed that whole speaker cable system on that speaker. It is a large help with the silver foil from crossover to driver.
Last edited:
Golden Ear - Triton (closer to the) Reference
- Thread starter MortenB
- Start date
I deoxed that whole speaker cable system on that speaker. It is a large help with the silver foil from crossover to driver.
Good morning all, operation rescue Reference has commenced here.
I dissasembled one loudspeaker and got rid of the stock filter and cabling. Up until yesterday I was considering an external filter and leave the stock filter in place..... but after seeing the actual difference, I know I will probably never ever use the stock filter again.
So, it will be a straight forward swap for me. Mostly because the new filters are a pretty easy fit. So BIG kudos to @MortenB and Tony as the new filters slide in nicely. No need to remove braces. Just make sure the filter sits in the middle of the width of the cabinet, and the radiators have 5mm space around the caps. See pics underneath.
I dissasembled one loudspeaker and got rid of the stock filter and cabling. Up until yesterday I was considering an external filter and leave the stock filter in place..... but after seeing the actual difference, I know I will probably never ever use the stock filter again.
So, it will be a straight forward swap for me. Mostly because the new filters are a pretty easy fit. So BIG kudos to @MortenB and Tony as the new filters slide in nicely. No need to remove braces. Just make sure the filter sits in the middle of the width of the cabinet, and the radiators have 5mm space around the caps. See pics underneath.
Attachments
Excellent news 
Yes, we have been back and forth on the layout quite a few times to get the biggest parts towards the middle of the crossover boars. This to give enough clearance to the baskets of the passive radiators as you mention. It’s a tight fit, but working through the holes of the passive radiators, it’s actually quite easy.
Agreed, the existing components and wiring are of such a poor quality, that they are of no real use…
Your filters from Tony are smaller than mine (some of my caps are different/bigger), so great, that this filter fits without removing the small brace. For those who have removed the small bracing, you can just glue in a ‘’rundstok’’ as suggested earlier. It will do the same work.
It’s a bit hard to grasp what is up - down in the cabinet from your pics. I get the impression, that you have the board with the big black Jantzen caps up in the cabinet, and the other board with the foil coils down towards the binding posts? Or do I get the wrong impression from the pics? (I would install the board with the big black Jantzen down towards the binding posts).
Yes, we have been back and forth on the layout quite a few times to get the biggest parts towards the middle of the crossover boars. This to give enough clearance to the baskets of the passive radiators as you mention. It’s a tight fit, but working through the holes of the passive radiators, it’s actually quite easy.
Agreed, the existing components and wiring are of such a poor quality, that they are of no real use…
Your filters from Tony are smaller than mine (some of my caps are different/bigger), so great, that this filter fits without removing the small brace. For those who have removed the small bracing, you can just glue in a ‘’rundstok’’ as suggested earlier. It will do the same work.
It’s a bit hard to grasp what is up - down in the cabinet from your pics. I get the impression, that you have the board with the big black Jantzen caps up in the cabinet, and the other board with the foil coils down towards the binding posts? Or do I get the wrong impression from the pics? (I would install the board with the big black Jantzen down towards the binding posts).
Last edited:
Yes, try and ‘’rotate’’ the boards. With the big black Janzen down in the cabinet you will get the shortest wiring:
1 cable from the binding posts to the input of the filter.
3 cables from the board with the coil foils up to the drivers.
That’s the intention with the layout.
1 cable from the binding posts to the input of the filter.
3 cables from the board with the coil foils up to the drivers.
That’s the intention with the layout.
It will shorten the wires to the driver considerably. So yes, this is the way.
My advice would be before drilling the holes for the board, to have one radiator in place. You can slide the board towards the radiator, and just slightly pull it back (1-2mm) after it touches. Then try the opposite radiator, see if it clears the boards as well.
After a quick check, I managed to get the "Big Black Jantzen Board" between the radiators this way. It's tight, but it fits! See pic:
My advice would be before drilling the holes for the board, to have one radiator in place. You can slide the board towards the radiator, and just slightly pull it back (1-2mm) after it touches. Then try the opposite radiator, see if it clears the boards as well.
After a quick check, I managed to get the "Big Black Jantzen Board" between the radiators this way. It's tight, but it fits! See pic:
Yes, that’s exactly the right process to be sure to install the boards in a way, where the passive radiators will still fit. Those baskets on the passive radiators are taking up quite a bit of space.
Yes, it will take some work with care. But when done correctly, all will fit nicely. With the radiators in place, you can wiggle the board about 3mm. This is a handsome design @MortenB
I told you those damn basket for the passive radiators are in the way With these much larger filters, the only way to install them inside the cabinet is on the back panel.
I stuck some small self adhesive felt pads on the caps, next to the baskets, just to make sure nothing would rattle. But if you have 3mm clerance, there should be no problem what so ever.
With these much larger filters, the only way to install them inside the cabinet is on the back panel.I stuck some small self adhesive felt pads on the caps, next to the baskets, just to make sure nothing would rattle. But if you have 3mm clerance, there should be no problem what so ever.
I’m guessing the bracing I have marked with red is the one seen over the Silver Z capacitor in your picture? Meaning you have installed the crossovers higher up in the cabinet, as I have marked with green here on my picture?
All is fine with that of course, especially as you use thinner and more flexible cable from the filter up to the drivers.
For those of you who has ordered filters from Tony with the Furutech cabling already done and soldered to the crossovers: If you prefer the location Markuzz use, the Furutech cable between filter and binding posts is most likely too short, so you will need to replace that. Also please be careful not to bend the thick Furutech cables to hard/tight when routing them up to the drivers.
Or use the same location of the crossovers as I did, where you need to remove the small bracing discussed earlier. The cabling is made for this location of the crossovers. As you can see here, the cables are routed with ‘’soft bends’’ between filter and the midwoofer cabinets.
Both locations work perfectly fine..!
All is fine with that of course, especially as you use thinner and more flexible cable from the filter up to the drivers.
For those of you who has ordered filters from Tony with the Furutech cabling already done and soldered to the crossovers: If you prefer the location Markuzz use, the Furutech cable between filter and binding posts is most likely too short, so you will need to replace that. Also please be careful not to bend the thick Furutech cables to hard/tight when routing them up to the drivers.
Or use the same location of the crossovers as I did, where you need to remove the small bracing discussed earlier. The cabling is made for this location of the crossovers. As you can see here, the cables are routed with ‘’soft bends’’ between filter and the midwoofer cabinets.
Both locations work perfectly fine..!
Attachments
Last edited:
I completed the filter swap. Yesterday I did some preparations, and today I soldered the wires to the filters and drivers. I followed pretty much all of @MortenB steps. Thus, hot glue for an air tight seal between the internal cabinets. Also tight wraps to secure a strong cable connection on the drivers.
I reused the screws of the stock filters to fasten the new filters (plus 2 extra). Just a small pre-drill through the filter stand mounts, and carefully screw down the filter. Super tight, and done in minutes.
For now I left the cables for the active woofers stock, and I used about 2.75m per loudspeaker to wire the passive section. I spend about 8 hours in total to do the full swap, including testing.
See some pics here:
I reused the screws of the stock filters to fasten the new filters (plus 2 extra). Just a small pre-drill through the filter stand mounts, and carefully screw down the filter. Super tight, and done in minutes.
For now I left the cables for the active woofers stock, and I used about 2.75m per loudspeaker to wire the passive section. I spend about 8 hours in total to do the full swap, including testing.
See some pics here:
Great progress, unfortunately, my delivery is tied up in Customs clearance due to a value discrepancy issue. I've reached out to Tony who has resubmitted the requested documentation. Still no movement from FedEx. Will follow up again later today.
That is annoying..... I frequently buy records from the US, and it is the same story every time. Sometimes it takes forever to clear customs.
Anyway, hope your package will arrive soon!
Looking good Markuzz And excellent pictures..! It will be very interesting to hear your initial impression on the sound
You think the small original screws will be be enough to secure the boards? (As long as the speakers are not shipped, I guess it’s OK).
And excellent pictures..! It will be very interesting to hear your initial impression on the sound You think the small original screws will be be enough to secure the boards? (As long as the speakers are not shipped, I guess it’s OK).
Tony mentioned this to me, actually all 3 sets of crossovers going to the US are held up in customs. Two due to (so called) value discrepancy, and one set is held up because customs claim the package contain ‘’seeds and other organic material’’.
Tony has triple checked everything, and value is declared correctly, no discreoancy, and it took him two days to convince customs, that the other package contains speaker parts, not seeds and organic material. He is shipping crossovers and other parts globally all the time and have never experienced this before.
Yes, the screws hold the boards fine. I only pre-drilled for the screws to grab into the wood, as the screws only go 6-7mm in. But 8 pieces secure the boards nicely.Looking good Markuzz
You think the small original screws will be be enough to secure the boards? (As long as the speakers are not shipped, I guess it’s OK).
First impressions on the sound will follow later. Everything needs to settle a bit.
I remember your remark on toe in..... that I understand now. It seems there's more energy on the higher octaves
Interesting, I did not find the small original screws secure enough, but again: Different people, different perspectives.
Yes of course, there is a bit of burn-in time. Actually I did not hear more treble energy after the upgrade, so I have kept the same toe-in as I used before. Now with the new crossovers fully burned in I find the treble much more listenable. I still have some ‘’toe out’’ though, compared to the recommendation in the manual, otherwise I find them too bright.
Yes of course, there is a bit of burn-in time. Actually I did not hear more treble energy after the upgrade, so I have kept the same toe-in as I used before. Now with the new crossovers fully burned in I find the treble much more listenable. I still have some ‘’toe out’’ though, compared to the recommendation in the manual, otherwise I find them too bright.
Markuzz, slightly off topic, did you use spade connectors for the subwoofer drivers as per oem or did you solder the 2+ and 2- wires to each terminal connector? Parallel wiring? I hope I'm being clear.
I changed the stock binding posts for ETI ones that allow for a screw connection. The diameter of the ETI's are too big for the standard round connectors of the DSP board, so I stripped those DSP cables.
In all, the small wires to the DSP board and the wires to the new filter are screwed together (in parallel) into the binding post.
I took extra care to ensure a good connection, but probably later I'll solder the wires into the binding post.
Last edited:
Similar threads
 | Steve Williams Site Founder | Site Owner | Administrator |  | Ron Resnick Site Owner | Administrator |  | Julian (The Fixer) Website Build | Marketing Managersing |