Affordable ethernet filters

You will need either Ethernet cables with male m12 to RJ45 or two of these: https://a.co/d/7Z8o8jf
I bought those adapters (and the switch) but don't see how they insert into the 4-pin M12 port because of the threading. Please advise.
 
I bought those adapters (and the switch) but don't see how they insert into the 4-pin M12 port because of the threading. Please advise.
the threads pull the plug into the socket. You align the pins, push it in to engage the threads and then turn the nut to pull the plug into the socket. The threaded section should rotate.
 
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You will need either Ethernet cables with male m12 to RJ45 or two of these: https://a.co/d/7Z8o8jf

You will also need a DC supply. The unit can take a wide range as it has internal linear regulators. I use an 18v Jung Super Regulator.
It came with the m12 power plug for terminating your DC supply wire.

The clock to upgrade is 25mhz. The unit has 2 stacked boards that have about an inch space in between. I went to my storage and found the spare I have and will use it for pics.
I also bought a couple of the Korenix switches which were just too cheap not to experiment with. They came today and include a M12 connector that you can use to wire a power supply. I have a DIY linear power supply that can provide more than 1 amp of power with adjustable voltages ranging from 12-20 vDC so that seems to be within the specification. So a dumb question, the instructions for the connector specify + power on Pin 1 and Pin 4 and 0 on Pin 3. I assume 0 on Pin 3 is ground. Is there any reason why I can't connect Pin 1 and Pin 4 to the same output on the linear power supply or do they need to be independent sources?
 
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I also bought a couple of the Korenix switches which were just too cheap not to experiment with. They came today and include a M12 connector that you can use to wire a power supply. I have a DIY linear power supply that can provide more than 1 amp of power with adjustable voltages ranging from 12-20 vDC so that seems to be within the specification. So a dumb question, the instructions for the connector specify + power on Pin 1 and Pin 4 and 0 on Pin 3. I assume 0 on Pin 3 is ground. Is there any reason why I can't connect Pin 1 and Pin 4 to the same output on the linear power supply or do they need to be independent sources?
I bought those adapters (and the switch) but don't see how they insert into the 4-pin M12 port because of the threading. Please advise.
I bought two of those as well just to make it easy to test the third unit I have and just tried them. The threaded portion is supposed to turn very easily and it’s very tight on the one that I have. On my other ones I can easily rotate them with with my fingers and these are very tight on the Amazon ones. I don’t think they’re made properly, or a bad batch
 
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I also bought a couple of the Korenix switches which were just too cheap not to experiment with. They came today and include a M12 connector that you can use to wire a power supply. I have a DIY linear power supply that can provide more than 1 amp of power with adjustable voltages ranging from 12-20 vDC so that seems to be within the specification. So a dumb question, the instructions for the connector specify + power on Pin 1 and Pin 4 and 0 on Pin 3. I assume 0 on Pin 3 is ground. Is there any reason why I can't connect Pin 1 and Pin 4 to the same output on the linear power supply or do they need to be independent sources?
You parallel them meaning use pin one and pin four. On the board side they both connect to the same supply through a diode.
 
Here are a few internal pics of my new unmodified spare.
Unlike most consumer switches, there’s quite a bit going on in there. Between the boards, there is 1 inch space which is just enough to be able to put a clock/PCB upgrade. I’ll take some pics of how to do it and where to get power to power the clock PCB.
I as you can see it is fully machined from solid aluminum stock.
IMG_1369.jpegIMG_1370.jpegIMG_1374.jpeg
 
I bought those adapters (and the switch) but don't see how they insert into the 4-pin M12 port because of the threading. Please advise.
I double checked and looked thoroughly at the ones that are on Amazon and there’s something definitely not correct. About them. Extremely difficult to turn the threaded area whereas all the other ones just turn with finger pressure. Maybe safer just using terminated premade cables.
 
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Extremely difficult to turn the threaded area
Exactly. I destroyed a couple of adapters in the process. Are there push-on connectors for those of us who won't be using the switch under water?
 
I will take a look and see if there’s a different one on Amazon. The ones that I got from Mauser were for terminating cables, and they were pretty much the same as the premade patch cables where you can simply turn the threaded part with your fingertips, it’s that smooth.
 
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Truly Fiber Optic is the best filter.
Quality F/O like the EtherRegen, Sonore Optical Module Deluxe V2 and quality Finisar SFP with Single Mode OC F/O Cable
 
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I actually have fiber optic (USB over fiber) between the server and DAC. Regardless of that, the isolation and relocking from good switches is clearly audible
Yep, and it is ad hoc unlike the Sonore Optical Module Deluxe and the EtherRegen V1 that offers the ability to ad a Quality External Clock. a $25.00 M12 will not top this combination in a system ecos that is 98%% fiber....
 
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Yep okay and it is ad hoc unlike the Sonore Optical Module Deluxe and the EtherRegen V1 that offers the ability to ad a Quality External Clock. a $25.00 M12 will not top this combination in a system ecos that is 98%% fiber....
you know that’s a pretty good idea just making the port for an external clock. That’s a lot simpler and easy to try different clocks. I think I’m gonna implement that on my third one.
I don’t think my ether EtherRegen on copper sounds better than the M12 w upgraded clock. Due to the logistics of my particular system, the ideal place was to have the optical between the server and the Dac however I could try a very short optical jumper and see if there’s any benefit
 
EtherRegen, Sonore Optical Module Deluxe V2 and quality Finisar SFP with Single Mode OC F/O Cable
I just acquired a LHY FMC which you should add to your list. It sounds good enough right out of the box to me that I have already edited my signature:
 
I just acquired a LHY FMC which you should add to your list. It sounds good enough right out of the box to me that I have already edited my signature:
Nope had it and it was mediocre at best.
 
Too bad. Mine sounds very good in this system:
Sonore Optical Module Deluxe and the ER combination are fantastic, looking forward to the ER v2. The LHY was on par with other Asian FMC I had tried that cost 1/2 of the LHY. I also run 2 different Finisar SFP based on a recommendation by a friend on anther forum, made huge improvement. He made the recommendation as we have similar networks. He has a similar opinion for LHY. I am glad it works for you. Cheers and Merry Christmas.
 
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also run 2 different Finisar SFP based on a recommendation by a friend on anther forum, made huge improvement.
Meaning one transceiver model upstream of a different model?
I use a pair of 1318 with singlemode between router and audio network, and then two 1475 (same 1310 laser) just before the streamer, so I could swap two of them. Which one would you put downstream?
 

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