Any cyclists here?

Cycling Furces
There seems to be a basic ,isunderstanding of the role of tire width and pressure. Despite posting a video showing skinny tires inflated to high pressure are faster than fatter tires with lower pressure some are still uconviced. I concede that for the every ider these differences might be negligible. Other factors may prevail. Nevertheless, all things being equal a thinner tire inflated to a higher pressure will be faster than the fatter tir tire with lower pressure. AS the video above suggests, results were probably skewed by the tires operating out of their r pressure range.


Cycling Forces | Physical Cycling
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The diagram is missing something- what happens when you hit a bump. At that point some of the forward speed is converted to vertical motion. Its less efficient. By running a lower pressure you can have a more efficient ride- if the pressure is right it will be faster and smoother at the same time.

By going with a wider tire (as long as its not too wide) your contact patch is reduced in size due to the aspect ratio being different- a narrower tire has a long contact patch while a wider tire trades that for one that is wider- but less area overall. This give you a bit more flexibility with the tire pressures you can run since you have a greater volume of air. You can try to get around that by greater inflation of the narrower tire, but then the bumps make the ride less efficient, and certainly less comfortable, robbing you of energy. The downside of wider tires isn't speed on flat ground- in that regard as long as TPI and tread issues are similar they are faster, but not uphill, simply on account of the greater weight.

YT has a ton of videos on this topic!

This is one of those cycling traditions which takes decades of time to overcome, similar to the idea of drop bars for people that aren't racing.
Another guy riding a Jones… excellent! Sadly my custom Cyfac Absolu hangs in the garage. The widest I can get on that is 25mm, and I also don’t bend into race bike positioning as I once did (I’m 64). So I ride my Jones. I ditched the Eagle group and went to Shimano di2. And I’m running Rene Herse (Compass tires) 29x44. The pic shows my Jones rims with 55mm tires. (I have another wheelset for the 44s) At around 20psi no need for suspension, plenty if comfort. And unless you are riding up at speeds where air resistance is becoming the primary factor (lets say above 18 mph) tire width isn’t a factor. somebody above linked to the Rene Herse site to advocate for wider is as fast as skinny given a supple tire, and I say if you like riding skinny and beating the hell out of yourself, go for it. if your frame will allow try a 32 and drop the pressure, see how much better your shoulders, hands, and neck feel after a long ride. Then check and you’ll notice no drop in time compared to your prior rides. But, supple tire is essential. A stiff sidewall wide tire will be slower.

View attachment 92980
For the Tour Divide I moved away from the Jones CRims to a set of Hunt rims with internal wall to wall width of 33mm and tire width of 2.6". This reduced weight a bit since the Hunt rims even though alloy are lighter than the Jones CRims and for that matter so are the tires (Vitorria Mezcals). On the Tour Divide, the most successful racers say that 2.2 to 2.3" widths seem to be the sweet spot- narrower and you can't make speed over the rougher stuff, wider and its too heavy. But most of those guys weigh 30-50 pounds less than me so the wider tire seems prudent. In 2019 I rode 2.8" Vee Rubber Speedsters and made the best speed on the route of any of my prior attempts (two of those using 2.2" tires). Over days and weeks of continuous riding, the comfort aspect becomes paramount; the Jones is easily the most comfortable bike I've owned despite no suspension. I think the longer wheelbase is playing a role.
IMG_0290.JPG
 
The diagram is missing something- what happens when you hit a bump. At that point some of the forward speed is converted to vertical motion. Its less efficient. By running a lower pressure you can have a more efficient ride- if the pressure is right it will be faster and smoother at the same time.

By going with a wider tire (as long as its not too wide) your contact patch is reduced in size due to the aspect ratio being different- a narrower tire has a long contact patch while a wider tire trades that for one that is wider- but less area overall. This give you a bit more flexibility with the tire pressures you can run since you have a greater volume of air. You can try to get around that by greater inflation of the narrower tire, but then the bumps make the ride less efficient, and certainly less comfortable, robbing you of energy. The downside of wider tires isn't speed on flat ground- in that regard as long as TPI and tread issues are similar they are faster, but not uphill, simply on account of the greater weight.

YT has a ton of videos on this topic!

This is one of those cycling traditions which takes decades of time to overcome, similar to the idea of drop bars for people that aren't racing.

For the Tour Divide I moved away from the Jones CRims to a set of Hunt rims with internal wall to wall width of 33mm and tire width of 2.6". This reduced weight a bit since the Hunt rims even though alloy are lighter than the Jones CRims and for that matter so are the tires (Vitorria Mezcals). On the Tour Divide, the most successful racers say that 2.2 to 2.3" widths seem to be the sweet spot- narrower and you can't make speed over the rougher stuff, wider and its too heavy. But most of those guys weigh 30-50 pounds less than me so the wider tire seems prudent. In 2019 I rode 2.8" Vee Rubber Speedsters and made the best speed on the route of any of my prior attempts (two of those using 2.2" tires). Over days and weeks of continuous riding, the comfort aspect becomes paramount; the Jones is easily the most comfortable bike I've owned despite no suspension. I think the longer wheelbase is playing a role.
View attachment 92989
Tour Divide = Bucket list.

are you doing it competitively, or leisure? My friend did it last summer, leisure. We did a short tour a few years back and met several of the racers while in Wise River, MT. I think its very cool the race attracts riders from around the globe. We were sitting in a little cafe in middle-of-nowhere, Montana; with the languages being spoken you’d have thought we were in Vienna.

Awesome shot of the Tetons.
 
Aghh, adventure! It feeds the soul.

 
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Maybe this is blasphemy but I have a Bowflex stationary bike now. I do 2 to 3 20 minutes rides a week. I always feel so much better after getting my heart rate up. And I sleep way better.
Me too! I find exercise is critical for good sleep and a feeling of wellness. There's nothing wrong with the stationary bike! A lot of my cycling friends use them extensively when the weather is bad. I've got no place to set one up so I just have to face the rain and cold. I'd say optimal for me is about 2-3 hours a day of fairly fast paced walking with some hills thrown in, or a similar amount of moderate paced bicycling. According to Strava I'm averaging about an hour and 20 minutes per day on the bike so far this year. For some reason it doesn't seem to be tracking my walking but I estimate another 45 minutes a day of walking, so it's been a good year and I'm feeling it! There are some great workouts on the hills around my house, with steep stepped paths in easements between houses, and some nice trails through nearby natural areas. I'm sure glad they built the neighborhood like that.
 
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Just getting started Ralph.
Bumps. Is that a dip or a hump? What size? At what speed?
 
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The diagram is missing something- what happens when you hit a bump. At that point some of the forward speed is converted to vertical motion. Its less efficient. By running a lower pressure you can have a more efficient ride- if the pressure is right it will be faster and smoother at the same time.

By going with a wider tire (as long as its not too wide) your contact patch is reduced in size due to the aspect ratio being different- a narrower tire has a long contact patch while a wider tire trades that for one that is wider- but less area overall. This give you a bit more flexibility with the tire pressures you can run since you have a greater volume of air. You can try to get around that by greater inflation of the narrower tire, but then the bumps make the ride less efficient, and certainly less comfortable, robbing you of energy. The downside of wider tires isn't speed on flat ground- in that regard as long as TPI and tread issues are similar they are faster, but not uphill, simply on account of the greater weight.

YT has a ton of videos on this topic!

This is one of those cycling traditions which takes decades of time to overcome, similar to the idea of drop bars for people that aren't racing.

For the Tour Divide I moved away from the Jones CRims to a set of Hunt rims with internal wall to wall width of 33mm and tire width of 2.6". This reduced weight a bit since the Hunt rims even though alloy are lighter than the Jones CRims and for that matter so are the tires (Vitorria Mezcals). On the Tour Divide, the most successful racers say that 2.2 to 2.3" widths seem to be the sweet spot- narrower and you can't make speed over the rougher stuff, wider and its too heavy. But most of those guys weigh 30-50 pounds less than me so the wider tire seems prudent. In 2019 I rode 2.8" Vee Rubber Speedsters and made the best speed on the route of any of my prior attempts (two of those using 2.2" tires). Over days and weeks of continuous riding, the comfort aspect becomes paramount; the Jones is easily the most comfortable bike I've owned despite no suspension. I think the longer wheelbase is playing a role.
View attachment 92989
Totally agree you need the right tire for the surface. It's amazing how much the drag increases on a skinny tired bike if you get into some soft surface like grass or soft dirt. A wider tire will glide over it with much less effort. I think most paved roads are rough enough that a slightly fatter, lower pressure tire ends up being better overal. A 28c tire at 90psi will probably do better on most roads than a 23c tire at 120psi. I'm stuck with 23c tires because my old road frame doesn't have clearance for any more than that. I'm running DT R460 rims that are 23mm wide so the 23 tires widen out a bit without bubbling past the rim. I can run them down at 90 psi and still avoid pinch flats so it's pretty good.
 
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Just getting started Ralph.
Bumps. Is that a dip or a hump? What size? At what speed?
I've been contemplating these kinds of questions lately. The nature of a dip or a hump can have a huge effect over how a particular wheel size will roll over it. It seems that a very bad case dip would be one that the wheel fits into perfectly. If it's deep enough it'll bring you to a very hard stop. A smaller wheel can roll through it, a larger wheel can roll over it. But there's a wheel size that will get stuck!
 
Tour Divide = Bucket list.

are you doing it competitively, or leisure? My friend did it last summer, leisure. We did a short tour a few years back and met several of the racers while in Wise River, MT. I think its very cool the race attracts riders from around the globe. We were sitting in a little cafe in middle-of-nowhere, Montana; with the languages being spoken you’d have thought we were in Vienna.

Awesome shot of the Tetons.
Racing, I imagine. I'm hoping to finish under 30 days. We'll just see about that. To do under 30 days you need 'only' do about 80 miles a day. But while out there I really won't have anything else to but go for a ride on my bike. So if it goes well (which is different from 'going according to plan') then I might do a bit better... set the intention with no attachment to the outcome.
Just getting started Ralph.
Bumps. Is that a dip or a hump? What size? At what speed?
If you can ride down a well paved road and easily feel its surface (minor cracks, joints and such), there's a good chance your tires are over-inflated.
There is an optimal tire pressure for weight loading and the terrain.
Totally agree you need the right tire for the surface. It's amazing how much the drag increases on a skinny tired bike if you get into some soft surface like grass or soft dirt. A wider tire will glide over it with much less effort. I think most paved roads are rough enough that a slightly fatter, lower pressure tire ends up being better overal. A 28c tire at 90psi will probably do better on most roads than a 23c tire at 120psi. I'm stuck with 23c tires because my old road frame doesn't have clearance for any more than that. I'm running DT R460 rims that are 23mm wide so the 23 tires widen out a bit without bubbling past the rim. I can run them down at 90 psi and still avoid pinch flats so it's pretty good.
This last weekend I went for a ride on the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour. British 3-speeds are required; this is the largest event of its kind in the US. Most British 3 speeds use the 650A tire size, which is 26" x 1 3/8". Its a pretty good all-round size; reasonably good on gravel, better on pavement. But one rider had a 3-speed built for 650B tires (also known in the US as 27.5"). The better speed he could make on the gravel parts of the tour was obvious to everyone. Naturally he was running lower pressure too on account of the greater volume.
 
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Contact patch
I haven’t visited these boards for some time (my handle used to be ET and I’m using my friend’s handle since I’m having trouble logging in) and noticed the huge thread on tire width and contact area. Nice to see some things never change: the usual slugfest pitting theoreticians relying on basic principles against practical engineers, members of each group against each other and against well-intentioned laymen, disparaging comments about the other two groups from others, etc., all of which often resolves nothing,

Just a friendly suggestion: no need to re-invent the tire, er, wheel each time: there are already some quality, carefully researched books already out there covering such topics, so if interested, just get a couple of them and quote from the books. Here are two:

Performance Cycling, by Stuart Baird,

http://www.cyclepublishing.com/cyclingbooks/pc.html

and Bicycling Science, by David Wilson,

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0262731541/104-3965678-0863124?v=glance

In Baird, on page 105, in the section on cornering, it says:

“…The bottom of the tire, the part touching the road, deforms under the load it is carrying, flattening out into what is called a “contact patch.” How large is this contact patch? It should be easy to see that the size depends on the tire pressure and the load. No load, or rock-hard pressure, and the tire doesn’t deform at all: the contact patch is just a tiny point. Heavy loads and less pressure increase the size of the patch…Some bicycle tires, too, have stiff portions of tread…But it is still true that for tires of similar construction, two tires with the same load and pressure will have the same contact area. Notice that we have not mentioned tire width at all. The omission is intentional, because the area of the contact patch does not depend on the width of the tire. Inflated to 90 psi and fitted to a bike under the same rider, a super-narrow 700C x 19 clincher would have the same contact patch area as a medium-width 700C x 25 or a 700C x 32 loaded touring tire. Only the shape of their contact patches would be different.”

So that answers the question.

On page 132-133 of same, there is a discussion of the coefficient of rolling resistance (CsubR) as a function of contact patch area, the difficulties obtaining an accurate CsubR, and whether the relationship would in fact be close to linear or not. It mentions Wilson’s book.

In Wilson (third ed.), Chapter 6 (Rolling: tires and bearings), regarding measuring rolling resistance on a flat surface, it says,

“Slope is highly important. Nominally level indoor surfaces can easily slope 0.001 in places, altering the apparent value of CsubR by 10-50%. [So much for measuring in your house, let alone outdoors.] …The entire subject of rolling resistance has been treated primarily empirically from a variety of perspectives, and much further study is needed. For these reasons we simply summarize a wide range of published results.”

It then goes on to give numerous and oft-complicated empirically derived formulas for CsubR as a function of contact patch area and other parameters depending on such things as firmness of the road and wheel, tire diameter, and even speed. There is some debate between the two books as to the accuracy of the formulas used.

It is obvious, then, that it would be difficult to determine the gain or improvement of one slightly different tire over another.

Both books give formulas under certain simplifying scenarios. In general, Wilson is far more technically detailed, but Baird is better with explanations as to what’s going on, so they both have their place.


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curlybike

Chili hed & old bike fixr​

Joined Jan 22, 2002
1,126 Posts
#2 · Jan 19, 2005

As said before, there are those that have their mind made up, and refuse to be confused by the facts, for whatever reason( you fill in the reason!!!!)


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C

CoachRob

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Joined Sep 14, 2004
491 Posts
#3 · Jan 19, 2005

Howard3 said:
The omission is intentional, because the area of the contact patch does not depend on the width of the tire. Inflated to 90 psi and fitted to a bike under the same rider, a super-narrow 700C x 19 clincher would have the same contact patch area as a medium-width 700C x 25 or a 700C x 32 loaded touring tire. Only the shape of their contact patches would be different.
Well, this is true, but neglects some important points. Compare for instance a car tire with a bike tire. If you were to put a car tire on a bike, the contact patch would NOT be the same. It is not the width, but rather the shape of the tread. In the picture attached, the tire to the right will have a larger contact patch due to its flatter tread. In the first and second tires, since both can be thought of as clocks, and make contact only at the 6 o'clock position with the road surface, it's true that the tire WIDTH does not make a difference, because the tire makes contact ONLY at the 6 o'clock position, which is essentialy just one point on a circle (called a tangent point).

It is for this reason that bike tires do no hydroplane and treads are not channeled as in cars, where the tread is like the one on the right. In that case, the water can build up and treads need channels to funnel the water out of the area between the contact patch and the road surface. Poor channeling yields hydroplaning.

Suppose you have a 75 kg rider, and the area of contact patch between the two tires combined is just one square inch. That means the load is 75 kg/square inch. Now, put that same 75 kg rider on the tire to the right, and you can imagine the 75 kgs are distributed over 3 square inches, or 25 kg/sq inch. That has significant implications for road grip.

Would it surprise you to find out that a needle on a record player supports more weight per square inch than a car tire? That's because the contact area of the needle on the record is so small that the weight:contact area ratio is greater than a 3,000 lb car on 20 square inches of road tire contact.

So, if the tire is of the type that has one (tangent) point of contact, it is true that tire WIDTH has no effect on contact patch. But that does not account for tread type. And tread type does differ between tires to a degree. The flatter the tread, the more area of contact, the less weight/square inch, creating different handling characteristics.

Theory is one thing; practice is another. And I know of no tread that makes contact at one tangent point. In fact, underinflate your tire, and you can see for yourself the contact patch grows rapidly as psi drops. Because this yields less force/square inch, underinflated tires tend to slip more in slick/wet conditions.

Let's take this just one step further. Ice skates are sharpened for a reason. It would seem to make sense that a wider skate surface would give you a better grip on ice. Just the opposite is true. The narrower the skate blade, the better. The principle of why a skate glides over a surface is as follows: the increased weight/square inch is converted to heat as the skate glides over the ice surface. This actually causes local ice melting, thus the skate glides on a very thin film of WATER over the ice. The water quickly refreezes as it is so thin. If you don't sharpen the skates, the weight/square inch falls, this causes less heat and less melting, thereby decreasing local melting. This slows a skater down and causes more slippage.

So, tire width per se has little effect. But do not be fooled to believing that tread SHAPE has little to do with tire handling. It has EVERYTHING to do with it.


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Bicycle Rolling Resistance has done extensive tests and studies.
13mm tire at 100 OSI is faster than a 30mm tire at 65 PSI.
26mm 85psi 7 mins.'26.secs. 242 wats
30mm 65 psi 7mins.35 secs. 240 watts
28mm 75 psi7mins 38se3cs 239 watts

We can see no linear progression for fat tires being faster despite whatever other benefits they may provide. In fact even though there was no test they recommend 23 mm at least in the front for such applications as time trials.
The video is posted above.
 
Nice to see all the cycling interest from WBF members. Where I live the asphalt is rarely smooth, so I am enjoying the 28mm tubeless tires on my new Enve SES 3.4 AR wheels on my Canyon Ultimate Evo. Makes long rides less fatiguing, still handles well and only about 200 grams more than the ultra light DT Swiss 25th Anniversary wheels that came with the bike.

C6664453-AD4C-423D-8552-0956FE7627FD.jpeg
 
I'm stuck with 23c tires because my old road frame doesn't have clearance for any more than that.

I own and sometimes use 19c tires on a modern carbon stage race road bike designed around narrower rims with 23c tires mounted. Also mount them on an 80's steel road bike with clearance for 37c and fenders. Geometry differences between the two are vast. Neither offer a harsher ride because of those tires being mounted if you aren't expecting to sit there and have the bumps absorbed for you. :)

No matter the tire size you need to refine your technique to match all physical conditions present. Watch video of racers on those narrow rock hard tires and they are constantly in motion having attained second nature counteracting the constant input required to handle a twitchy race frame with tires that track immediately. It was a full body workout requiring endurance of a race car driver's reaction time and ability to make adjustments multiple times a second from any position while forcing yourself down the road without mishap. Someone who merely knows how to ride a bike would have nightmares attempting to hold a straight line on a true race bike with bearings tuned to almost negative resistance.
 
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Bicycle Rolling Resistance has done extensive tests and studies.
13mm tire at 100 OSI is faster than a 30mm tire at 65 PSI.
26mm 85psi 7 mins.'26.secs. 242 wats
30mm 65 psi 7mins.35 secs. 240 watts
28mm 75 psi7mins 38se3cs 239 watts

We can see no linear progression for fat tires being faster despite whatever other benefits they may provide. In fact even though there was no test they recommend 23 mm at least in the front for such applications as time trials.
The video is posted above.
Optimal tire pressure is something different from what's listed above. Its something you have to sort out. I had this lesson put to me in a very obvious and painful way on the Divide back in 2018. So much depends on road surface; if you are on a track or very smooth new asphalt you can be faster on a narrow tire. But if you ride the kind of roads we have in Minnesota were winter damage is an on-going thing, you'll find such tires to simply be slower.
 
Fair enough. I would not ride a 23mm in Paris-Roubaix.
Optimal tire pressure is something different from what's listed above. Its something you have to sort out. I had this lesson put to me in a very obvious and painful way on the Divide back in 2018. So much depends on road surface; if you are on a track or very smooth new asphalt you can be faster on a narrow tire. But if you ride the kind of roads we have in Minnesota were winter damage is an on-going thing, you'll find such tires to simply be slower.
 
A pic of me riding a little up-and-over through the crotch of a gnarly maple tree on last night's Freewheel social ride. A maze of tight, twisty, rolling & flowy singletrack at the Puslinch Conservation Area in Southern Ontario.
 

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Fair enough. I would not ride a 23mm in Paris-Roubaix.

As an aside, the sportif (Which is the only time the public has access to ride pavé secteurs.) is so riddled with mtb crawling along below walking speed you could ride a hot wheels trike and forgo paddling with your unclipped foot.

Second aside. You start with an excessive tire pressure in hopes of finishing with enough air remaining to avoid rolling a tire on turn into the velodrome.


There is no absolute in audio or in cycling. Mainly just variables you attempt to discern in order to prosper in circumstances others lack critical knowledge of. Sometimes that means sitting at the start until they start breaking it down in order to enjoy the day's course like a rabbit or sneaking off ahead like the hare. ;)
 
Another guy riding a Jones… excellent! Sadly my custom Cyfac Absolu hangs in the garage. The widest I can get on that is 25mm, and I also don’t bend into race bike positioning as I once did (I’m 64). So I ride my Jones. I ditched the Eagle group and went to Shimano di2. And I’m running Rene Herse (Compass tires) 29x44. The pic shows my Jones rims with 55mm tires. (I have another wheelset for the 44s) At around 20psi no need for suspension, plenty if comfort. And unless you are riding up at speeds where air resistance is becoming the primary factor (lets say above 18 mph) tire width isn’t a factor. somebody above linked to the Rene Herse site to advocate for wider is as fast as skinny given a supple tire, and I say if you like riding skinny and beating the hell out of yourself, go for it. if your frame will allow try a 32 and drop the pressure, see how much better your shoulders, hands, and neck feel after a long ride. Then check and you’ll notice no drop in time compared to your prior rides. But, supple tire is essential. A stiff sidewall wide tire will be slower.

View attachment 92980
View attachment 92981
Wow stunning bikes esp the Jones
 
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I did learn something. Even though skinny tires with high pressure are demonstrably faster in my opinion, it is not the absolute I thought it was. There are limits and many factors come into play. Some factors maybe even more important than all out speed. The good news is you can verify it for yourself. The tires are not that expensive. So make your best guess and race against the clock. You be the judge.
 
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One other thing for the easiest upgrade in cycling comfort there is a three letter word. GEL
 

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