Best audiophile switch

To clarify, replacing the TP-Link MC220L/iPower X combo with the Optical Module Deluxe/MiniTeddy resulted in an improvement in the same direction the former had improved—less coloration and more microdetail.

Is it possible that with the latter there was also an improvement in any other direction, like soundstage depth and realism, space, better deep bass maybe? Or not significant?
The oMD v2 provided an obvious increase in clarity and transparency, which results in hearing further into the soundstage, more microdetail and faster transients.
I have to ask, what about optimisation of your eR in the more resolving setup:
- was it used in conjunction with the superior B side of the EtherREGEN, which is designed with "moat isolation” and is it (or not):
- clocked (did you try?)
- grounded
- also powered by a Teddy Pardo
- only using 2 ports (no other devices connected?)
My PlayPoint streamer is connected to the ER B-side. The A-side has the fiber connection, and also ethernet to a TV and Chromecast Audio streamer. I have tried disconnecting the TV and CCA a couple of times and heard no difference whatsoever through the main system PlayPoint. Connecting to the ER makes a major difference to the sound from the TV and CCA.

The ER is upgraded with a Teddy Pardo 12/2 and Ghent Audio Gotham Starquad DC cable, supported on a Target shelf and IsoAcoustics Minipucks. No separate ground connection, as it is not required with a ground PSU. No external clock.
 
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To clarify, replacing the TP-Link MC220L/iPower X combo with the Optical Module Deluxe/MiniTeddy resulted in an improvement in the same direction the former had improved—less coloration and more microdetail.

Is it possible that with the latter there was also an improvement in any other direction, like soundstage depth and realism, space, better deep bass maybe? Or not significant?

I have to ask, what about optimisation of your eR in the more resolving setup:
- was it used in conjunction with the superior B side of the EtherREGEN, which is designed with "moat isolation” and is it (or not):
- clocked (did you try?)
- grounded
- also powered by a Teddy Pardo
- only using 2 ports (no other devices connected?)

If shared before and I missed that a link will do instead of repeating,
Thanks

For me,
switching to fibre optic,
used quality fibre optic cables.
 
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The ER is upgraded with a Teddy Pardo 12/2 and Ghent Audio Gotham Starquad DC cable, supported on a Target shelf and IsoAcoustics Minipucks. No separate ground connection, as it is not required with a ground PSU. No external clock.
Actually you may wish to try out the Ground screw of your EtherREGEN.

Some background (and this is all covered on page 8 of the User Guide):
a) Grounding is only relevant to the 'A' side RJ45 ports of the EtherREGEN relative to each other; No leakage currents can cross over the active differential digital isolators that straddle the "moat" to the 'B'.

b) We use more costly 12-core per port magnetics and we tie the center-taps of the cores to the ground plane (through individual 0.1uF capacitors) to shunt away high-source-impedance leakage--by low-source impedance leakage still exists.
[By the way, the popularity--with audiophile tweakers--of some of the very inexpensive Netgear GS switches took off when we years ago posted about some versions that also were grounding the center taps of their magnetics as this is not that common.]

c) If you are only utilizing one of the 'A' side RJ45 ports then grounding of the EtherREGEN does not matter at all. But if you are using more than one 'A' side port--and most especially if you are also using even one shield-tied cable on the 'A' side--then a proper earth ground with reduce 'A' side port-to-port leakage interactions.

d) The stock custom SMPS AC>DC adapter we ship with every EtherREGEN is internally "ground-shunted." That is, its AC cord earth ground pin is common to the -Ve/zero-Volt "ground" barrel of its output. So use of that supply (assuming with a IEC cord with 3 wires into a mains outlet with proper earth ground) automatically takes care of grounding the EtherREGEN's 'A' side.

e) It is when someone is powering the EtherREGEN with a power supply whose output is "floated" from AC mains ground (most, but not all linear supplies) that consideration to use the Ground screw comes into play. Again, only if you are using more than one 'A' side RJ45 port.

Your Teddy Pardo (a very fine little supply with much lower broadband output impedance--unlike most of the sub-$200 AliExpress/eBay Chinese LPS units which have a big hump in their impedance a low frequency) is likely a "floated" output supply. Hence my suggestion that you give the Ground screw of your EtherREGEN a try. Especially since you have 'A' side connections to your TV and Chromecast streamer.
 
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Actually you may wish to try out the Ground screw of your EtherREGEN.

c) If you are only utilizing one of the 'A' side RJ45 ports then grounding of the EtherREGEN does not matter at all. But if you are using more than one 'A' side port--and most especially if you are also using even one shield-tied cable on the 'A' side--then a proper earth ground with reduce 'A' side port-to-port leakage interactions.
The A-side ethernet cables are not shield-tied.
Your Teddy Pardo (a very fine little supply with much lower broadband output impedance--unlike most of the sub-$200 AliExpress/eBay Chinese LPS units which have a big hump in their impedance a low frequency) is likely a "floated" output supply. Hence my suggestion that you give the Ground screw of your EtherREGEN a try. Especially since you have 'A' side connections to your TV and Chromecast streamer.
Thanks, I will try grounding the ER.
 
So I just got two Finisar 1318s, and the labels look different - even though they have the same build month and year. You can see one is marked 16-10 and the other is 15-20, marking I don’t know the meaning of. Can anyone suggest if these are legit? I bought them listed as New, although I’m obviously suspicious seeing the build year.

image.jpg
 
You are fine
image.jpg
 
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Thanks. I wonder what those varying numbers above the bar code represent?
 
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I wonder what those varying numbers above the bar code represent?
The laser wavelength is 1310 nm. The second set of numbers have no discernible pattern that I can identify even when considering those pictured on eBay. I’m not sure it matters but maybe an answer can be gleaned from the product worksheet.
 
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Hey, that’s a pretty good guess!
 
Hey, that’s a pretty good guess!
Possibly a lot and/or batch code? In the event of a recall most product failures are recalled on the basis of a lot and/or batch.
 
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I am not a moderator either but I think the issue has been settled, and apologies have been made. Please let's not prolong this matter in the interest of focusing on the original topic. Let's move on to discussing the best audiophile switch options, as you mentioned some interesting candidates earlier. Thanks for your input and understanding.✌️

Perhaps one day, there will only be integrated solutions with a switch, all combined, as seen in the XACT S1. Until then, we have no choice but to compare separate components: a router/switch, network transport, and a music server. I look forward to seeing what comes next here.View attachment 134929
According to the reviews I've read, the switch is not integrated in the XACT S1 and you you can either use it as a switch or a server.
When you use it as a server, you can use only one Ethernet input and when you use it as a switch you can then use all Ethernet inputs.
So in effect you would need two XACTs to be able to use both the switch switch and server in tandem.
So far, the only product with an integrated switch function is the Aqua Linq, which again may not clasify as an integrated switch per se, as there's only one Ethernet input, but nevertheless it is designated as such in their literature, specifically: "Internal custom developed LAN switch (isolated)".​
Integrating switches or a "switch function" into a server/streamer product though would not come without its own set of problems, as the designer would have to factor in how exactly to integrate one to avoid radiated noise to the mobo, how to power it, etc.
 
Then I guess we have a list of candidates that should be on the final comparison list for users willing go for the best:
Telegartner M12 Premium, Network Acoustics Tempus, Reiki Pro, Ansuz D2/D-TC Supreme

Who has compared all of them so far?
i currently have two Ansuz Switches a D2 and a D-TC SUPREME, and i am getting a Telegartner M12 Premium. i will make a comparison but i don't want to find a winner. they will have and make different improvements. it will just be personal preference.

disappointed with the interior (used circuit board) of the Ansuz switches, ok the sound but something more i demand at that price.
 
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Then I guess we have a list of candidates that should be on the final comparison list for users willing go for the best:
Telegartner M12 Premium, Network Acoustics Tempus, Reiki Pro, Ansuz D2/D-TC Supreme

Who has compared all of them so far?
And what of SOtM, Silent Angel, UpToneAudio, LHY, Gustard, Yamaha. Lots and lots of switches out on the market.
 
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And what of SOtM, Silent Angel, UpToneAudio, LHY, Gustard, Yamaha. Lots and lots of switches out on the market.
Just rank them best to worse in order of descending price. That was always bound to be the final answer. :p
 
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Just rank them best to worse in order by descending price. That was always bound to be the final answer. :p
it is a subjective any way and system dependent, look at the differences in our two setups. Reminds me of my motorcycle racing days when I would lap faster on a RVF 400 than guys on race prepped Ducati 916R, came down to skill and knowing my setup. Some folks think the more you spend the better, or faster.Thanks for your post sir my thoughts exactly. :cool: ;)
 
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And what of SOtM, Silent Angel, UpToneAudio, LHY, Gustard, Yamaha. Lots and lots of switches out on the market.
the SOtM has already been compared, a very good product, but we preferred the Ansuz D2. the D-TC SUPREME is far superior to the D2!
after the posts of Superdad I'm puzzled by its interior, i mean as a pure switch! perhaps the problem is not in the switch electronics, but in everything that runs on it!
Ansuz also works well on resonance control! In addition his PSU should be a switching one, I like switching power supplies they have some points in favor compared to the best linear ones
 
the SOtM has already been compared, a very good product, but we preferred the Ansuz D2. the D-TC SUPREME is far superior to the D2!
after the posts of Superdad I'm puzzled by its interior, i mean as a pure switch! perhaps the problem is not in the switch electronics, but in everything that runs on it!
Ansuz also works well on resonance control! In addition his PSU should be a switching one, I like switching power supplies they have some points in favor compared to the best linear ones
Who ever we is....
 
And what of SOtM, Silent Angel, UpToneAudio, LHY, Gustard, Yamaha. Lots and lots of switches out on the market.
I think it really doesn't matter on the switch. Its how you set up the networking in the first place how well networking as a whole performs. Also I doubt that a switch is going to make a difference in sound quality and if it did, then the methodology of applying networking is incorrect for the application.
 

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