Dedicated lines: The cable, breakers and panel do make a difference!

[Mendel]

I recently decided to upgrade my 40+ year old 100 amp panel to a new Siemens panel with all new breakers. At the same time I added two new 20amp dedicated lines to my audio system, one for my amp and front end components and one for my electrostatic speakers and future subs.
I already had a dedicated 20amp line for my electronics wired with 12 gauge Romex cable, while my speakers were plugged into a non-dedicated circuit with numerous lights and outlets on it.
My electrician quoted me two prices, one for the 12 gauge Romex, and another for 10 gauge “armoured “ cable (wrapped in an aluminum sheath) which he recommended. I decided to go with the armoured cable and am very glad I did (outlets are by Cardas).
I don’t know if it’s the new panel and breakers, or the armoured cable, or having the speakers on their own dedicated circuit, but I am totally blown away by the upgrade in my sound quality. Everything sounds cleaner and clearer, smoother and more enjoyable. I find I am listening at louder volume than usual because it doesn’t seem that loud (until my wife tells me to turn it down).
I know you can now buy “audiophile “ cable for between you panel and outlets. Also very expensive “audiophile” panels. I have no experience with these, but I do not doubt that they are really good. I think the 10 gauge armoured cable is a big step up from 12 gauge Romex. For a couple hundred bucks more it is well worth it.

 

[Ron Resnick]

That is great work! I think a good, basic electrical infrastructure like that is important.

 

[Mendel]

Thanks Ron!
Here is a picture of the new panel. The three breakers at the very bottom are the audio lines. You can see the two armoured cables and the yellow Romex exiting the panel on left.

 

[treitz3]

Never underestimate the foundation of a system.

Glad to hear you are enjoying it!

Tom

 

[brad225]

Mendel,
The installation looks very well done.
One thing is that if the 2 breakers on the left side are both for audio they are on different phases of the panel.
The breakers opposite each other, like the bottom 2 are on the same phase.
You might want to raise the second breaker on the left one more position. That would put it on the same phase as the bottom 2 circuits.

 

[godofwealth]

I echo the importance of running dedicated 20-amp lines to a high end listening room. Recently I acquired the massively large ARC 750SE's mono blocks that happily tripped my 15 amp lines, and I was forced to upgrade. I am glad I did. I also installed Furutech outlets, which are amazingly rigid compared to the usual rickety plastic outlets that US homes seem to come with by default. My electricians were amused by the Furutech outlets, but impressed at how well built they were. Even when running a pair of solid state Mola electronics through my Soundlab speakers, the system has improved markedly in all aspects. Better resolution, less grunge, and a much greater ease, all no doubt due to a pair of 20-amp dedicated lines running directly from my main breaker panel.

 

[Kingrex]

I always advocate for good power. Its never wrong. If walls are opening for a remodel, absolutly bring dedicated circuits to your room. If however the only reason to open walls, and its pretty extensive work, is to get power from the panel to the rack, I would absolutly investigate a battery/inverter solution first.

I am aware no matter how well the electrical infrastructure is, people almost always have a filter on the front end due to noise. That has lead to my investigation into battery power. I am not convinced a rotary generator at a dam is any better at creating a sine vave than an inverter. And with all the 0 emission mandates and solar coming online, what is your wall power really composed of.

I believe an appropriatly sized inverter with distortion specs below 2% will provide far cleaner power than any wall outlet fed by utility power. I believe with an appropriate sized inverter and battery, the instant current delivery that affects bass is sufficient to match wall power.

I do admit most all battery installations require a filter. But people are using them on wall power, your just starting with lower noise levels and not tearing up your house to get power here and there.

You do end up with a battery that is about 10x12x20 and weighs 80 lbs. And an inverter that 7x6x18 and weighs about 20 lbs. These can be off to the side with a 10 foot captured cord going to a power strip or filter on the rack.

I know people have tried amps on Stromtank and prefer the wall. The spec I have read say the S5000 inverter is putting out 750 volt amps. Thats small. The inverters I am specifying are more in the 2500 to 12,000 volt amps range. A totally different power supply. Far more robust.