Golden Ear - Triton (closer to the) Reference

"So for now, I'll just keep playing music......" - excellent sign! I'm happy for you. Happy to hear others, too!

BTW, do we know who's OEM for TRef treble element?
Interesting you mentioned Ring Radiators. I have had three Audio Physics which used Ring Radiator. I found their treble very satisfactory if not excellent, however got fatigued sooner than later due their other trade offs. Had to trade them for an upgrade until eventually came across the Ones.

FYI, Here's AP Caldera III with Ring Radiator measured by Stereophile. Same strange ridge of resonance/diffraction on 10+ kHz area.

Perhaps we should not care too much abt that pattern on the TRefs and accept that as a feature...

View attachment 146480

I am not sure if GoldenEar has used OEM drivers for the T-ref's. If I remember correctly (from a Sandy Gross interview) they make the drivers themselves, or at least have them made according to their specifications.

Measurements can be interesting, but they only tell part of the story. Some of the best audio gear does not measure superbly, but are 'voiced' by experienced engineers through listening (a lot).

Nevertheless I would like to share the cumulative spectral decay of my previous horn system. It shows a reasonably smooth decay. Range 200Hz - 20kHz. Vertical scale 0dB to -30dB's. Time scale 8 milliseconds. These measurements are made by Tony.

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Measurements can be interesting, but they only tell part of the story. Some of the best audio gear does not measure superbly, but are 'voiced' by experienced engineers through listening (a lot).

Nevertheless I would like to share the cumulative spectral decay of my previous horn system. It shows a reasonably smooth decay. Range 200Hz - 20kHz. Vertical scale 0dB to -30dB's. Time scale 8 milliseconds. These measurements are made by Tony.
Wow. No ridge above 10 kHz area!
Agree with you re measurements, they're only part of the story indeed. What finally matters for me too, is how it sounds..
 
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Hi everyone
So i took the time to do one of my T-Refs yesterday. I decided to put the crossovers in the speakers just like everyone else is do. I only did one for a reason. I wanted to hear the difference in each speaker. I can say with no time on the new crossover and cabling the difference is a huge positive difference. So much better than stock. And it's only going to get better with a little time. Thank Tony for such a great upgrade. I will get the other speaker done this week sometime. I will tell anyone if they have a very good system driving a set of T-Refs and want to hear a huge positive upgrade get ahold of Tony Gee and get the upgraded crossovers and cabling. Its well worth the effort, time and price. The T-Refs was the big downfall in my system. The T-Refs are good speakers but the are not reference speakers. You get a lot for the money spent on them and do a lot of good things. With Tony's upgraded crossovers you get closer to a reference speaker just like MortenB has said.

Thank you
Mark Dorey
 
Sorry guys for getting so frustrated…

My life/work is full of hyper complex stuff, decisions and fast pace, that’s my ‘’normal’’. In this thread I have found myself repeating (to me) very simple things over, and over and over, that is frustrating in itself. But what’s insanely frustrating for me, is not having the words in English to go into the details, and get things right. And if what I say is not understood the first time, it does not make anything more understandable to use the same words 5 or 10 more times for the same question/concern/scepticism.

I designed this upgrade, and from the beginning of this thread I have promised you to help you all I can succeed with the upgrade of your speakers - if you decide to upgrade them. I stand by that, so I’m here, but I can’t go back into repeating myself on all the why this, why not that, what about etc etc. I don’t have the words, and I’m getting too frustrated not being able to express things.

I’ll try one final time :) If it does not make sense, or if you don’t believe what I say… Then I have done my best, and I can’t do any more.

I have mentioned many times in this thread, that the T Ref’s are very well engineered, but build to a price point. Maybe that last part ‘’build to a price point’’ does not make sense to all?

In the case of the T Ref’s it means a lot of different things, some we can not change/update easily, others we can. The cross over parts, the internal wiring and those terrible push-on connectors are some of the worst I have seen in a speaker at this price point. Very bad, but it’s cheap to build speakers this way, both when it comes to the price of the parts, and this way of assembly. It does not really take special skills, just push on connectors, mount drivers etc, and it’s fast, and time is money. So cheap parts, and cheap assembly process.

For instance, when I took out the woofers, on two out of the six woofers, the push on connectors fell off as soon as I just lifted the driver a few centimeters. The connection was hardly there, and we must replace stuff like that to get the best out of our speakers.

When we look inside much more expensive speakers, that are not ‘’build to a low price point’’ we see much, much better parts quality: Crossover parts, cables, binding posts etc etc. We also see a much better process / assembly where parts are point-to-point wired/soldered, that goes for the crossover components, and for the cables, soldered to the crossovers at one end, soldered to the drivers at the other end. These parts are seriously expensive (compared to stock inside T Ref), and the assembly takes more skill, more tools/equipment, and more time. And time is money….

This upgrade is about getting to the full potential of the T Ref, so the parts and process/assembly is the best possible, similar to much more expensive speakers. No cutting corners, no compromises. So no longer ‘’build to a low price point’’.

Because the T Ref’s are so well engineered the decision was NOT to change the function of the crossover. Much work has gone into simulations and measurements to make sure these new crossovers perform indentical to stock. Same crossover frequencies, same slopes, same, same, same… Just upgraded parts and assembly. This is a different approach, that what we often see from Danny/GR Research, where they design a new/different crossover for the speakers, but that was because it was designed bad in the first place. With a new/changed filter, a speaker can sound totally different. Not needed with the T Ref. If you saw Danny’s videos on the Golden Ear - BRX you will see, that he tried designing a different/better cross over, but could not. The original was as well designed for these drivers as can be. So he kept the crossover design the same, and upgraded the parts. Same as we do here with the T Ref.

So basically ‘’the same speaker’’ just with ‘’build to a price point’’ eliminated on the critical places. (And now I almost prey this makes sense this time)…
 
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Hi everyone
I decided to put the crossovers in the speakers just like everyone else is do. I only did one for a reason. I wanted to hear the difference in each speaker. I can say with no time on the new crossover and cabling the difference is a huge positive difference. So much better than stock. And it's only going to get better with a little time.

Thank you
Mark Dorey
Hi Mark,

Good to see you here, and not just on the private messages here on the forum :)

I did the same, with updating one speaker first, and then tried listening… What you decribe is exactly what we get when replacing poor quality parts, with top quality ones. Ironically the improvements can be even bigger in a speaker like the T Ref because the original parts are really bad quality.

I’m glad to hear your experience is so positive, already from just one speaker. Thank you for your update.
 
Morten, welcome back, you've been missed. Finally, got the crossovers after a long custom clearance delay. Disassembled one speaker and the wiring makes so much more sense once in the open.
In your post 27, you talk about the grey foam in the woofer chamber.
"The grey foam is glued in place, so remove it carefully without damaging it, as it has to be reinstalled later."
Are you referring to the large piece of foam that was glued to the back wall which goes from the original crossover to almost the binding posts or something else?
 

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Yes exactly. You just carefully remove the grey foam, and then after installing the crossovers you find new location for it. See these two pics of my installation: Some of the foam is now further down in the cabinet, and some is on a vertical bracing. It does not really matter, where you locate it.

The close-up picture with red/white wiring is the stripped Furutech wiring for the subwoofers.
 

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Hi MortenB
I have left my system on running at low volume since yesterday trying to let the speaker I have done get burned in. But the difference is a very positive one. The volume of that speaker is probably 1 to 2db greater. The details and dynamics are so much better. It just gets a lot deeper into the music without getting analytical in any way. The speaker also seems to disappear in the room better than the stock speaker. I'm sure when I get the other speaker done i will see a lot deeper sound stage with more layering and placement of instruments. The new crossovers and cabling eliminates the smearing of the details, transparency and the extension of the high frequency you miss with the stock crossovers and cabling. Anyway this is a great upgrade. Its a lot of work to do it right but well worth the effort when its done. Its everything you have explained at the beginning of this post!
 
I’m so glad to hear this from you Mark, and also relieved, as I know I have cost you guys both money and a lot of your time :)

If others in the US is on the fence about ordering the crossovers from Tony, maybe now is the time, before you guys might experience a 25% price increase - you know :rolleyes:
 
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As long as this post stays current I'm sure the more people that see it will jump on the upgrade. But also I'm sure a lot of people will be scared to mess with the T-Refs being a lot of people paid $12000 or more for them. I traded a set of Triton Ones in on The T-Refs and still paid 8k out of pocket for them. I'm not scared to work on stuff because that's what I do. If people are willing to take the effort needed to do the upgrade they will be rewarded with a set of speakers that perform at a much much higher level. After getting the T-Refs new i thought they sounded good. From going to Audio shows i knew that they were not performing to a reference level of speakers. I'm not saying the T-Refs sound bad in stock form but you need to hear really good speakers to know what your leaving on the table. This upgrade definitely gets you closer to very high end speakers. But you still need the gear that is up to the task of giving a reference level signal to the speakers. So that needs to be considered before jumping into this upgrade.
 
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Hi everyone
I did my other speaker two days ago and my system has been playing every since at low volume. The best way I can describe this upgrade in my system with everything i have done to get all the noise out of the signal path is. I you have two water hoses with water turned on but have a knot at the very end of them. You can imagine the restriction that would be there. Replacing the crossovers and cabling eliminates that knot and just let's the music flow in a way that you hear everything that's been recorded. You also get a wider deeper and more transparent sound stage. This upgrade is definitely worth it is you have done everything in your system to reduce the noise floor as much as possible and have a system that is capable of being real resolving. Its a huge positive difference in my system because of that reason. The T-Refs were the biggest downside of my system and I was not able to hear everything from it because of the cheap parts in the speakers crossovers, cabling and binding posts. Replacing all that with good quality parts has just completely opened my system up and made it much much more enjoyable.

Thank you
Mark Dorey
 
Well finally finished installing the new crossovers on both speakers. Now have to wait till next Saturday to have the drivers professionally soldered and spliced connections.
 

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Excellent work guys, and it must be so rewarding after you waited so long for the crossovers.

What you describe Mark is spot on regarding what to expect from a comprehensive upgrade like this, where we upgrade basically all internal parts from a ‘’basic level’’ to high end level. Your example with the hoses is a good one :) Here is another one I got to think about indicating before and after (picture found online).
 

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Well finally finished installing the new crossovers on both speakers. Now have to wait till next Saturday to have the drivers professionally soldered and spliced connections.
Maybe you can share feedback on the lenght of the Furutech cables with the filter location higher up in the cabinet? I’m asking in case more will order the crossovers and Furutech cabling from Tony, so he can make small adjustments to the lenghts based on this new location of the filters. (Again, the lenghts of the cables are based on my filter location).

Can the input cable to the filter reach the binding posts? If not, how much longer should it be?

And how do you find the length of the cables going to the midwoofers and the tweeters? Could these be longer or shorter? And by how much?

The lengths shown in this picture is what I have given Tony to make the cabling from. The measurements are from the edge of the boards.
 

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Hi MortenB
I didn't measure the cabling. Be i got enough to put the crossovers outside the speakers i just cut a piece that was a little longer than i needed. I striped the insulation off of it and went point to point until the last woofer and cut the extra off that was not needed. As for placement of the crossovers I put mine in the same place that Markuzz did. I do have a question. How long of a run in time do you think it takes before the crossovers are fully settled in?
 

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Maybe you can share feedback on the lenght of the Furutech cables with the filter location higher up in the cabinet? I’m asking in case more will order the crossovers and Furutech cabling from Tony, so he can make small adjustments to the lenghts based on this new location of the filters. (Again, the lenghts of the cables are based on my filter location).

Can the input cable to the filter reach the binding posts? If not, how much longer should it be?

And how do you find the length of the cables going to the midwoofers and the tweeters? Could these be longer or shorter? And by how much?

The lengths shown in this picture is what I have given Tony to make the cabling from. The measurements are from the edge of the boards.
Morten, I have already installed the crossover wires so I can't measure them. However, they appear to be long enough as in the pictures.

The connection to the binding posts to my eyes appear a hair short, it measures 30 cm from board edge to speaker wire end since I didn't remove the internal brace. IMO, I would recommend an additional 2 inches (5 cm) which would give the wire a gentle loop at the binding posts if you're not removing the internal brace. I'll let my speaker guy make the call whether he has enough cable or not? I'm also upgrading to the Furutech binding posts. PIctures of the binding post connection with and without the foam pad.

The subwoofer wiring harness is @ 60 cm from end to end and appears to be sufficiently long enough.

All in all, quality components, excellent wiring, my only quibble is with the length of the wire from the board to the binding posts. Otherwise, all is good,
 

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Excellent Raesco :)

Yes, I noticed from your pictures, that you have also installed the crossovers higher up in the cabinets, and this is the logical thing to do, when it’s possible with this filter layout. I was concerned the wire from the crossover down to the binding post would be too short. I see that it just works. I will let Tony know to make that wire 35cm from edge of the board on future orders to give a bit more wiggle-room.

Great if you me know what your speaker guy thinks of the cable lengths for the midwoofers and the tweeter when he help you with the installation. Based on your pictures those seems to be fine, maybe they can even be a bit shorter.
 
How long of a run in time do you think it takes before the crossovers are fully settled in?

With new speakers fresh out of the box, there is break in of the drivers as their ‘’motors’’ settle in, but in this case we work on speakers already broken in.

Difficult to answer if the parts settle in, as I believe the break in / settle in is often more our brains getting used to a new sound, than parts actually changing.

I do feel though there was some settling in after I installed the new crossovers and parts. No idea, if it was my brain or the parts. My sense is, that sound got even more coherent after a while. Maybe something like 10 - 30 hours of playing time. Difficult to say…
 
It's been a fun project for me. Dealing with situations as they come up and coming up with solutions. It's interesting how we have all seemed to take different mounting approaches for the crossover boards.

I made a mistake on the first speaker where I made the hole from the subwoofer compartment to the MTM box inadvertently too large. Solution, got a thin neoprene washer 3/8" ID by 2" OD, cut 4 thin slits at 12, 3, 6 and 9 applied Gorilla glue, let it sit overnight with pressure, ran the cables through it and sealed it up with the hot glue on both sides.

The second speaker went much faster and neater, overall, very happy with the results so far. Looking forward to next Saturday.
 
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