In praise of idlers

Every belt has a "stick and slip"effect thats physic,this becomes even worse if you reduce the wrap angle on the platter.
This extends the acceleration phase and also the braking phase of the engine.
modern fast control can compensate with a sensor on the platter or motor.
The better way is like this a great wrap angle on the platter, that elimate the stick and slip effect on a minimum.View attachment 97098
Very cool table! Beautiful work. Did you do it yourself?
 
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How would a Pioneer exclusive P10 direct drive fare against idlers like 301 or 401?
 
If you by “stretch slip” or “stick slip” mean that the motor struggles to control the platter due to the elasticity of the belt — then i agree.

If it means that the belt is actually slipping on the platter then i disagree.

I cant see what good the construction in the picture will do — other than potentially tightening the belt and reducing its elasticity…

Again, why not completely eliminate the belt and put a wheel (idler) in between motor and platter ..?
i agree on your first sentence, it's much more complicated, but it gets to the heart of the matter.
The more angle of wrap the belt or tape has around 340 degrees on the platter, the more constant torque it can use from the motor.
this has a strong effect on the dynamic and stability of the sound.
just try it out, then listen to a piano tone, pay attention to the dynamics of the attack and the decay of the tone in the room.
a friend of mine designed the turntable, if you add a massive flywhell to the platter 90lbs+ 40lbs (800rpm) you get a phantastic turntable. for me best i ever heard no techdas or other brands can do this sound.9D1F8E41-E569-4C39-9861-30FBBD7571EC.jpeg

P.S @jespera
i have modded idler,you don't have to convince me anymore I'm satisfied.;)20210220_213749.jpg
 
My old SME positioned its motor pulley about an inch away from the sub platter driving the main platter. The belt wrapped around the sub platter with maximum contact leaving very little free belt hanging in the air. The problem was that the belt was very stretchy. I regret never trying a thread to drive it.

What is an ideal idler wheel material and compliance? I would think roundness would be a concern.

I suspect execution is what it all comes down to at the end.
 
My old SME positioned its motor pulley about an inch away from the sub platter driving the main platter. The belt wrapped around the sub platter with maximum contact leaving very little free belt hanging in the air. The problem was that the belt was very stretchy. I regret never trying a thread to drive it.

What is an ideal idler wheel material and compliance? I would think roundness would be a concern.

I suspect execution is what it all comes down to at the end.
i tried grinding the original td 124 on the lathe to be perfectly round, and it worked very well. but there was too much play on the spindle at the center bearing too much noise.
so i need another sölution.i can highly recommend the idler wheel from audiosilente. a perfect bearing. accuracy of fit 100%
you can choose different o-rings, softer or harder determine the sound yourself. is there for thorens/lenco garrad models
audiosilente idler.jpg
 
i tried grinding the original td 124 on the lathe to be perfectly round, and it worked very well. but there was too much play on the spindle at the center bearing too much noise.
so i need another sölution.i can highly recommend the idler wheel from audiosilente. a perfect bearing. accuracy of fit 100%
you can choose different o-rings, softer or harder determine the sound yourself. is there for thorens/lenco garrad models
View attachment 97112

Greg at STS also makes these with multiple O-rings. A great upgrade when I had my TD124.
 
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If it’s really in good condition P10 would sound much better than those idlers IMHO.
I was going for an audio grail restored 301. Do the upgrades and the plinth. Then this p10 cam up and now a Sony ps-x9! It seems this was not the right time for me to get an idler, it is time for a dd!
 
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Its always a good time to have a top DD in the mix :)
 
I was going for an audio grail restored 301. Do the upgrades and the plinth. Then this p10 cam up and now a Sony ps-x9! It seems this was not the right time for me to get an idler, it is time for a dd!
Good choice garrad,I hope you get kokomo kit for bearing garrad too, thats a really upgrade.
Punch and drive is really a show with garrad, the most important thing listen to music you have fun with it. the garrad does it to 100%

ok a reading error from me, have fun with the dd. a small warning if a repair is due, some spare parts are difficult to obtain.
 
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i think you would find the Saskia model two idler has a precision and refinement at the tip top of idlers. weighs 220 pounds, Pabst motor, super low noise floor. in some ways more belt drive sound than idler. not as extremely bold as some idlers. just the right amount of drive and grip. but exceptional tonal density and image focus. a five tool player.

my DaVa Ref cartridge seems to love the Saskia model
No argument here. The Saskia is the king of idlers in my experience. However, it should be pointed out that it costs twice the funds (or more, I'm unsure of the current pricing of the Saskia) than that of a Statement 301 from Artisan Fidelity. We've yet to see a ground-up effort from Artisan Fidelity...something to look forward to that I believe will happen. : ) On the other end of the price spectrum, we're unpacking 4 of the Semper Sonus tables today. This is a company that also makes software used by a decent swath of turntable manufacturers in the design of their tables...Tech Das having used it during the design of their reference table. I'm also using a Dava on one of mine, with a variety of other arms and carts...(Wand, Ikeda, Glanz, Supreme Tangenta...and Dava, Goldenbergs, Transfiguration Axia, Koetsu, MuTech...) it's going to be a fun filled week. We're packaging these tables for those who want to experience what all the hubbub is about from the idler sound, in a Don Draper-esque looking machine that you can get with arm and cartridge for $10k to $15k depending upon your largess. It's also something currently made and supported with the advantages of modern technology.
 
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No argument here. The Saskia is the king of idlers in my experience. However, it should be pointed out that it costs twice the funds (or more, I'm unsure of the current pricing of the Saskia) than that of a Statement 301 from Artisan Fidelity. We've yet to see a ground-up effort from Artisan Fidelity...something to look forward to that I believe will happen. : ) On the other end of the price spectrum, we're unpacking 4 of the Semper Sonus tables today. This is a company that also makes software used by a decent swath of turntable manufacturers in the design of their tables...Tech Das having used it during the design of their reference table. I'm also using a Dava on one of mine, with a variety of other arms and carts...(Wand, Ikeda, Glanz, Supreme Tangenta...and Dava, Goldenbergs, Transfiguration Axia, Koetsu, MuTech...) it's going to be a fun filled week. We're packaging these tables for those who want to experience what all the hubbub is about from the idler sound, in a Don Draper-esque looking machine that you can get with arm and cartridge for $10k to $15k depending upon your largess. It's also something currently made and supported with the advantages of modern technology.

It will be interesting to know which arm Dava works on best, and which cartridge works best on Glanz
 
No argument here. The Saskia is the king of idlers in my experience. However, it should be pointed out that it costs twice the funds (or more, I'm unsure of the current pricing of the Saskia) than that of a Statement 301 from Artisan Fidelity. We've yet to see a ground-up effort from Artisan Fidelity...something to look forward to that I believe will happen. : ) On the other end of the price spectrum, we're unpacking 4 of the Semper Sonus tables today. This is a company that also makes software used by a decent swath of turntable manufacturers in the design of their tables...Tech Das having used it during the design of their reference table. I'm also using a Dava on one of mine, with a variety of other arms and carts...(Wand, Ikeda, Glanz, Supreme Tangenta...and Dava, Goldenbergs, Transfiguration Axia, Koetsu, MuTech...) it's going to be a fun filled week. We're packaging these tables for those who want to experience what all the hubbub is about from the idler sound, in a Don Draper-esque looking machine that you can get with arm and cartridge for $10k to $15k depending upon your largess. It's also something currently made and supported with the advantages of modern technology.
Win told me he will still build a Saskia model two for $54k with one arm board, last time i talked to him 6 months ago. it takes him 14 months.......

in the context of the latest crop of 'bling-bling' spendy spinners that's a pretty fair deal. sure love mine.
 
Then this p10 cam up and now a Sony ps-x9! It seems this was not the right time for me to get an idler, it is time for a dd!
I would go for P10 and pull the trigger only if it’s mechanically in absolute pristine condition.
a small warning if a repair is due, some spare parts are difficult to obtain.
IMO you made a good point. there are lots of vintage turntables around looking good but in poor mechanical condition. it’s better to stay away any poorly restored or serviced ones.
 
I would go for P10 but please make sure that it’s mechanically in absolute pristine condition.

IMO you made a good point. there are lots of vintage turntables around looking good but in poor mechanical condition. it’s better to stay away any poorly restored or serviced ones.
I went for the Sony. It is in immaculate condition (non used, just kept in a collection to tip top standard) with unused xl55pro cartridge, all accessories including acrylic cover (still in shrink) and remote. Another great thing is, it is the rarer 220v version.
 
I went for the Sony. It is in immaculate condition (non used, just kept in a collection to tip top standard) with unused xl55pro cartridge, all accessories including acrylic cover (still in shrink) and remote. Another great thing is, it is the rarer 220v version.

Probably good but wont have the drive, punch and authority of the garrards. Imho.
 
Probably good but wont have the drive, punch and authority of the garrards. Imho.
Some years ago I´d the chance to listen one complete afternoon and night to both and to compare directly. Of couse a PS X-9 has the punch of a Garrard but due to the higher accuracy in speed it´s sounding more detailed over all. In return, the bass range is also displayed much better.
 
Ha! I know the feeling. I almost bought this table 2 years ago and then was paralyzed by analysis. It’s hard when all one has to go off is random feedback from systems one is unfamiliar with.
I'm placing the order Monday with Peter for the Solid 12 with the Schroder armboard. Purchase because necessary because the CB I just bought is the 11.1" version.... did that by accident. Doesn't fit my Aries. Next time I need to read the ad closer :)

Do you haver the controller? I'm getting the upgraded bearing but I think I want to hold off on the controller until I listen for awhile.
 
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I'm placing the order Monday with Peter for the Solid 12 with the Schroder armboard. Purchase because necessary because the CB I just bought is the 11.1" version.... did that by accident. Doesn't fit my Aries. Next time I need to read the ad closer :)

Do you haver the controller? I'm getting the upgraded bearing but I think I want to hold off on the controller until I listen for awhile.
Nice decision. Can’t go wrong either way. I purchased the speed controller as a package but there is zero you’re missing out on if you just got the table/bearing and then get the controller at a later date when you’re ready. The necessity and effectiveness of things like this are so variable sometimes it can be hard to justify a decision. But I think you’re on the right track. Get used to the table’s function/sound and enjoy for awhile and then see if you really need it.
 

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