The Grid Protector, the EMI Protector and The Allocator By Schnerzinger-In My System and I’m Blown Away

[57Uli]

It is very good that Gideon and Schnerzinger are working together to be able to advise US customers in the best possible way.

To round off the topic of the German power system, I outline three simple and cost-effective measures that I had taken to optimize the power supply of my hi-fi system:

• 1. A separate circuit for my hi-fi system with a better supply cable and a fuse instead of the usual circuit breaker
• 2. This circuit uses one phase (almost) exclusively
• 3. A separate grounding for the hi-fi system

Ad 2. An electrician has changed the distribution in the distribution box. Since then, phase L1 has (almost) exclusively supplied the hi-fi circuit. All other circuits use phase L2 or L3. This frees phase L1 from direct interference from critical consumers such as refrigerators, freezers, computers and routers.

An exception applies to the stove, as it draws its high-voltage current from all three phases together. This results in a calculated voltage of 230V *√3 (square root of three) = 400V and thus the correspondingly higher power that the stove needs. The stove is protected accordingly in the distribution box via 3 fuses.

After each of these (not high end) measures, the gain in quality was clearly audible.

 

[Jazzjunkie]

3. A separate grounding for the hi-fi system

What exactly was done here?
How is the rest grounded and how the dedicated line? A separate cable/pin into the earth somewhere else? What exactly really helps here?

 

[57Uli]

What exactly was done here?
How is the rest grounded and how the dedicated line? A separate cable/pin into the earth somewhere else? What exactly really helps here?

To be honest, I did it myself. My system is in the living room and this is located on the ground floor of my house. Next to the outer wall of the house, I drove an earthing rod vertically into the garden soil with my own muscle power, a total of 3 meters. With a small hole through the outer wall, I led a cable only a few meters long from the top of the earthing rod to the hi-fi socket.

Unfortunately, interference of any kind and consumers can accumulate via the professionally created central earthing of the entire house and thus reach the hi-fi system.
After I had put my own little grounding system into operation, the sound image had become noticeably clearer (less background noise).

 

[Jazzjunkie]

With a small hole through the outer wall, I led a cable only a few meters long from the top of the earthing rod to the hi-fi socket.

Sounds good, so you had to connect the thin earth from the socket to a thick ground lead to connect to the rod.
Did you compare, how much of the positive effect of the separate grounding a Grid protector cured, before you had the separate grounding? It would have been an interesting experiment, to connect the Grid protector to the different phases and see how this compares to the separate grounding.

 

[Zeotrope]

It is also important to use a common ground for all audio/video components. All components should be tied together (lookup “star ground” for more information.
I did this with the Shunyata Altaira ground system in my case.

On another note, the battery power is working on the GRID, and will be added to EMI and MULTI today!

 

[Steve williams]

It is also important to use a common ground for all audio/video components. All components should be tied together (lookup “star ground” for more information.
I did this with the Shunyata Altaira ground system in my case.

On another note, the battery power is working on the GRID, and will be added to EMI and MULTI today!

I have my entire sound room on a circuit box completely separate from the circuit box to the rest of the house. That circuit box has 12 separate dedicated lines each using 12 gauge Romex copper wire each for a 20 amp line . Each AC outlet is a Hubbel hospital grade duplex AC outlet. Each AC outlet has identical polarity at both ends of the run from AC outlet to the dedicated sound room circuit box. The entire sound room circuit box is grounded before it attaches to the house circuit box. Each AC outlet in my dedicated sound room has a 20 amp circuit breaker. Im surprised inGermany you still use fuses. Here in USA we use circuit breakers

 

[57Uli]

When I did the grounding, there was no Schnerzinger GRID. When I got the GRID, I tried it in different places, including a different phase with normal grounding. The result in the hi-fi circuit was better. And since I have the MULTI GUARDS, all phases are supplied with GIGA CANCELING technology and also the house grounding, especially via the MULTI GUARD EARTH.

Of course all my grounded audio/video equipment shares the same grounding.

I still have a significant project: this year I intend to invest in the Schnerzinger GROUND GUARD.

 

[57Uli]

Im surprised inGermany you still use fuses. Here in USA we use circuit breakers

There is a misunderstanding. We have circuit breakers since decades. But for the hi-fi circuit I prefer to use a fuse because of better sound. And last year I replaced this fuse with the Schnerzinger fuse, a huge step forward (see my post #449, you gave me a like for it...).

 

[Steve williams]

getting old is a bitch

There is a misunderstanding. We have circuit breakers since decades. But for the hi-fi circuit I prefer to use a fuse because of better sound. And last year I replaced this fuse with the Schnerzinger fuse, a huge step forward (see my post #449, you gave me a like for it...).

 

[Jazzjunkie]

When I did the grounding, there was no Schnerzinger GRID. When I got the GRID, I tried it in different places, including a different phase with normal grounding. The result in the hi-fi circuit was better. And since I have the MULTI GUARDS, all phases are supplied with GIGA CANCELING technology and also the house grounding, especially via the MULTI GUARD EARTH.

Of course all my grounded audio/video equipment shares the same grounding.

I still have a significant project: this year I intend to invest in the Schnerzinger GROUND GUARD.

Yes makes sense…as you had separated hifi ground from all others, the use of the Grid Protector on a separate Phase with separate ground will probably have less or no effect anymore, instead it works best in the hifi circuit.

Re cirquitbreaker: yes, the worst thing for hifi in a house installation (shortly after a protection cirquit) is a circuit breaker, it’s the first thing to get rid of to be replaced with a fuse.

I guess the reason why you did the separate grounding yourself is, that the electrician refused to do it, right? I guess he better shouldn’t see it even afterwards . Well, things we do for our sound!

 

[57Uli]

I guess the reason why you did the separate grounding yourself is, that the electrician refused to do it, right? I guess he better shouldn’t see it even afterwards . Well, things we do for our sound!

I didn't ask an electrician.
But even the electrician at the time building the house looked weird when I asked him to use my own cables for the hi-fi circuit and to install the fuse in the distribution box.

 

[57Uli]

Yes makes sense…as you had separated hifi ground from all others, the use of the Grid Protector on a separate Phase with separate ground will probably have less or no effect anymore, instead it works best in the hifi circuit.

The GRID worked very well on the other circuit (and phase), but it was even better on the hi-fi circuit.

 

[Jazzjunkie]

The GRID worked very well on the other circuit (and phase), but it was even better on the hi-fi circuit.

Ok that’s interesting as grounds were separated, but means it still does a lot for different phases.

 

[gds7368]

When I did the grounding, there was no Schnerzinger GRID. When I got the GRID, I tried it in different places, including a different phase with normal grounding. The result in the hi-fi circuit was better. And since I have the MULTI GUARDS, all phases are supplied with GIGA CANCELING technology and also the house grounding, especially via the MULTI GUARD EARTH.

Of course all my grounded audio/video equipment shares the same grounding.

I still have a significant project: this year I intend to invest in the Schnerzinger GROUND GUARD.

IMHO it is important to cadweld the cables to the ground rods or they can loosen and fall off over time/weather. I did this for my audio circuit only transformers and their separate 3 ground rods I placed in the back yard.



Not all electricians can cadweld - I had to call around to find one locally - but it’s a relatively inexpensive (~$100 as I recall) step worth taking to guarantee the fidelity of your separate audio curcuit

 

[RdW]

I didn't ask an electrician.
But even the electrician at the time building the house looked weird when I asked him to use my own cables for the hi-fi circuit and to install the fuse in the distribution box.

I recognise that . It was a shame I could not capture the expression on his face when I asked my electrician the same...

 

[Zeotrope]

Battery power modification completed!

No more wires running around the room, no more wall warts, and most likely better performance.

I am using the TalentCell 12V DC Output Lithium Ion battery pack (3000mAh). This will likely power the unit for over a year with a single charge; but obviously that depends on how much you use it and on what power level. I bought these on Amazon for about US$30 each.

YB1203000-USB

TALENTCELL provide the latest in premium quality consumer electronic products and accessories. Innovation and quality mean everything. Every single TALENTCELL product is brand new and precision manufactured to meticulous standards in our state of the art production facilities. We offer a 1 year...

talentcell.com

If you buy another brand of battery - be careful to check the polarity of the DC output! Compare it to the Schnerzinger provided wall wart output to ensure the +/- matches, and check that you have ~12.2V at the output.

I have not done a side by side comparison with battery power vs wall-wart power; but we know that in high-end audio battery powered devices usually sound better. Even though the wall warts are plugged into a different circuit than your components, the performance of the Schnerzinger units will probably be better when powered by cleaner power. I do plan to do a back to back test to see if I can hear a difference. For now, I just love not having the additional cords. For example, if you place the MULIT Master in the center of the room, as suggested, and you power it all the time, you need to think about cable management.

 

[Steve williams]

Battery power modification completed!

No more wires running around the room, no more wall warts, and most likely better performance.

I am using the TalentCell 12V DC Output Lithium Ion battery pack (3000mAh). This will likely power the unit for over a year with a single charge; but obviously that depends on how much you use it and on what power level. I bought these on Amazon for about US$30 each.

YB1203000-USB

TALENTCELL provide the latest in premium quality consumer electronic products and accessories. Innovation and quality mean everything. Every single TALENTCELL product is brand new and precision manufactured to meticulous standards in our state of the art production facilities. We offer a 1 year...

talentcell.com

If you buy another brand of battery - be careful to check the polarity of the DC output! Compare it to the Schnerzinger provided wall wart output to ensure the +/- matches, and check that you have ~12.2V at the output.

I have not done a side by side comparison with battery power vs wall-wart power; but we know that in high-end audio battery powered devices usually sound better. Even though the wall warts are plugged into a different circuit than your components, the performance of the Schnerzinger units will probably be better when powered by cleaner power. I do plan to do a back to back test to see if I can hear a difference. For now, I just love not having the additional cords. For example, if you place the MULIT Master in the center of the room, as suggested, and you power it all the time, you need to think about cable management.

So I’m confused. IIRC all of your Schnerzinger units power settings were at ZERO which doesn’t use a wall wart. Did you decide differently. Where are your settings now

 

[Zeotrope]

So I’m confused. IIRC all of your Schnerzinger units power settings were at ZERO which doesn’t use a wall wart. Did you decide differently. Where are your settings now

Yes, correct. For movies I’m at Power 1 because of the increased noise floor when I use the Trinnov processor with the Nagra DAC.
I haven’t decided if I’ll use Power 0 or 1 for music.

 

[Zeotrope]

Guys, battery power is a MUST TRY! Go out and spend ~$30 on a battery for each of your Schnerzinger units and try it (it’s important to run them all on battery power). I was blown away. Another reduction in noise, sound that is more effortless and closer to reality.
If you don’t think there’s an improvement, return the battery.
It’s a game changer, when you consider the other benefits.
GO AND TRY IT.

The supplied wall warts always bothered me. Even if they are plugged into a separate circuit from the system, you have a device which emits noise cancelling waves, but is powered by a noisy power source. Doesn’t really make sense. To be honest, at this price, they should not ship with cheap power supplies. Although it makes sense if you run them at the recommended Power 0 setting, as the wall warts are not required. So they are effectively powered by internal battery - unless you need Power 1 or 2.

 

[Steve williams]

Guys, battery power is a MUST TRY! Go out and spend ~$30 on a battery for each of your Schnerzinger units and try it (it’s important to run them all on battery power). I was blown away. Another reduction in noise, sound that is more effortless and closer to reality.
If you don’t think there’s an improvement, return the battery.
It’s a game changer, when you consider the other benefits.
GO AND TRY IT.

The supplied wall warts always bothered me. Even if they are plugged into a separate circuit from the system, you have a device which emits noise cancelling waves, but is powered by a noisy power source. Doesn’t really make sense. To be honest, at this price, they should not ship with cheap power supplies. Although it makes sense if you run them at the recommended Power 0 setting, as the wall warts are not required. So they are effectively powered by internal battery - unless you need Power 1 or 2.

this a most interesting finding. I must admit that I am intrigued. I will wait for delivery of my new speakers and reset all my Schnerzinger devices with the new speakers. Presently my system is down but when operational all settings were at ll . So there is a possibility that with a reset I might still need the wall warts. The reason I remain reticent is because alll my AC outlets are dedicated lines and my wall warts are all plugged into dedicated lines in my room. Great finding nonetheless. Kudos Zeotrope for bringing this to all users attention