tima's DIY RCM

Tima: the specs for his 120H say 200w/800w at 37 kHz. Any concerns about the higher power setting at such a low kHz? - Jim
Jim:

First, it's a 12-L tank; and the larger the tank, the more power required. Second the 800W is pulse power which is a very short time cycle and the 200/800W https://www.elma-ultrasonic.com/fil...e/Elmasonic_EASY/PP_Elmasonic_EASY120H_EN.pdf pales in comparison to the dual-frequency 37/80-kHz P120H which is 330/1320W that @tima uses for cleaning - https://www.elma-ultrasonic.com/fil...geraete/Elmasonic_P/PP_Elmasonic_P120H_EN.pdf.

Neil
 
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Jim:

First, it's a 12-L tank; and the larger the tank, the more power required. Second the 800W is pulse power which is a very short time cycle and the 200/800W https://www.elma-ultrasonic.com/fil...e/Elmasonic_EASY/PP_Elmasonic_EASY120H_EN.pdf pales in comparison to the dual-frequency 37/80-kHz P120H which is 330/1320W that @tima uses for cleaning - https://www.elma-ultrasonic.com/fil...geraete/Elmasonic_P/PP_Elmasonic_P120H_EN.pdf.

Neil
Thanks, Neil. I hadn't seen the PDF.
 
Tima: the specs for his 120H say 200w/800w at 37 kHz. Any concerns about the higher power setting at such a low kHz? - Jim

Hi Jim -- no concerns based on experience with the units that I use.

The Elmasonic S 120H (37kHz) I use for rinsing is rated the same as the Easy 120H: 200W effective ultrasonic power and 800 maximum Watts for peak performance power.

The Elmasonic P 120H (37kHz/80kHz) I use for washing is rated 330W effective ultrasonic power and 1320 maximum Watts for peak performance power.

edit: guess I responded before seeing Neil's.
 
edit: guess I responded before seeing Neil's.
That you two are in agreement matters, so glad you chimed in. My head and hands have been busy with things other than record cleaning of late, but I'm still of the opinion that if I want to step up my game from the VPI pre-wash >Degritter multi-cycle with three tanks, following in your footsteps is the way to go. I'm at the point where if there's anything I'm not removing, it's the occasional boulder so stuck or wedged my methods just don't touch it (brushwork focused on the area often will). That's why my ears perk up when the discussion involves the lower frequency machines which I suspect might address the problem.
 
That you two are in agreement matters, so glad you chimed in. My head and hands have been busy with things other than record cleaning of late, but I'm still of the opinion that if I want to step up my game from the VPI pre-wash >Degritter multi-cycle with three tanks, following in your footsteps is the way to go. I'm at the point where if there's anything I'm not removing, it's the occasional boulder so stuck or wedged my methods just don't touch it (brushwork focused on the area often will). That's why my ears perk up when the discussion involves the lower frequency machines which I suspect might address the problem.

Nice. Any time you choose to explore beyond a single-slot machine approach, we are here to help. Fwiw, the first post in this thread now includes pointers to some of the specifics about my system.
 
Nice. Any time you choose to explore beyond a single-slot machine approach, we are here to help. Fwiw, the first post in this thread now includes pointers to some of the specifics about my system.
Thanks, Tim. I have looked through the thread more than once, so have some understanding of what you've done and know if I decide to assemble something (very) similar, you've pretty much put together the manual. So, where is "upper midwest?" I'm in the KCMO area these days, but went to high school in Brookings, SDAK. I suppose we considered "upper" to be Fargo . . .
 
Clean enough records and it is bound to happen -- filters get dirty.

The filter market can be a moving target as new different 'improved' models arrive and prior models get replaced, or the manufacturer simply drops a model or the manufacturer gets bought out or disappears. If you 'invest' in your own diy system, such as the one described in this thread, for myself I found it wise to acquire a cache of the filters that you use to assure availability when you need them. Just like tubes. :)

As part of my wash tank system I have a differential pressure gauge on my Pentek 150574 #10 filter cannister. That gauge finally went from green (clean) to yellow (change). I decided to change that filter as well as the rinse tank filter.

Wash tank filter: HP (Watts) FPP-0.2-975-DOE 2.5” x 9.75” DOE End Cap 0.2 micron absolute
Cannister: Pentek 150574, 3/4" #10 3G Blue Filter Housing with Bracket and Meter Mount
note: this cannister cannot be used without a gauge which is purchased separately. I use the Pentek
143549, Differential Pressure Gauge for 3G Meter Mount Housings.

Rinse tank filter: Flow Max FM-0.35-975 2-1/2” x 9-3/4” Pleated Filter, 0.35 micron nominal
Canister Pentek 158116 ¼” #10 Slim Line


DSC01991-S.JPG
Both filters and their pumps.

20240830_014418.jpg
Using this fairly large cannister I need 2 wrenches, one alone is too flimsy. The gauge only shows a reading when there is flow through the cannister.

20240830_013949.jpg
Cannister now freed with a brand new filter.

When doing both filter changes I installed new O-rings.
- The wash tank filter cannister takes a Pentek 151120 Buna-N O-ring
- The rinse tank filter cannister takes a Pentek 151121 OR-38 Buna-N O-ring
- Both O-rings got a light coating of Dow Corning Molykote 111 O-Ring/Valve Lubricant/Sealent -- I was able to find a small 1/2oz. quantity here.

DSC01573.JPG
Rinse tank cannister with unopened filter replacement.

These pictures give a comparison of used filter with new filter. Hopefully the pictures here show at least the discoloration of the old filters. The differences are more apparent in real life.

20240830_013532.jpg
Wash tank new (R) and old (L).

20240831_044954.jpg
Rinse tank new (R) and old (L).

Full system specs and parts list here.
 
Tim, hand tighten should always be sufficient with these filter housings, so a single wrench should be plenty sufficient to get them started when unscrewing them. I always told customers to never use a wrench when replacing the canister.

You mention “pumps” I spy what looks like typical RO booster pump, but maybe it is a delivery pump? What is your other pump, and what pressure are they? (Delivery pumps usually rated at gpm flow rate vs pressure, but ro booster pumps usually 100psi.)

Filters are pretty high production items, during covid I had some troubles sourcing them, but they’re generally easy to find unlike Bugle Boy 12ax7.

I’m impressed with your effort creating your system and I’m fix’n to modify my KlAudio to include recirc of the reservoir through a similar .2 micron filter. It seems all I need to do is drill through the large tank cap and cut threads for a JG quick-connect. I’ll pull water from the drain line, though an RO low-flow booster pump, then the filter, then back to reservoir through the fitting in the cap.
 
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Tim, hand tighten should always be sufficient with these filter housings, so a single wrench should be plenty sufficient to get them started when unscrewing them. I always told customers to never use a wrench when replacing the canister.

You mention “pumps” I spy what looks like typical RO booster pump, but maybe it is a delivery pump? What is your other pump, and what pressure are they? (Delivery pumps usually rated at gpm flow rate vs pressure, but ro booster pumps usually 100psi.)

Filters are pretty high production items, during covid I had some troubles sourcing them, but they’re generally easy to find unlike Bugle Boy 12ax7.

Hi Bob,

Thanks reading about my DIY efforts.

For info about the pumps, etc: full system specs and parts list here. Feel free if you have follow up questions.

I have found the filter used for the wash tank unavailable and have heard different stories about it being discontinued, although that turned out not to be the case even though they were unavailable. I like to hold some inventory rather than rely on 'just in time'.

Wrt to wrenches and fixing the cannister to its mount, I do not dispute your expertise. I can only speak from my limited experience. i guess in this case 'should be' and my world are not quite in sync.

Regarding your KLA mod, may I encourage you to take some pictures and create a thread. It will be interesting and other KLA owners might want to try it!
 

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