I wish I had a scope with high enough resolution to see stuck debris or skips. Then have a pick/needle fine enough, with control enough to pick it out. Or to reshape the plastic to get rid of the skip.
There is a audiophile product that may sell.
tima's DIY RCM
- Thread starter tima
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There is a audiophile product that may sell.
If you buy/bought the same filter housing as @tima, then replace the filter when the needle moves into the red. If you did not buy the same filter housing - download this free book - https://thevinylpress.com/precision-aqueous-cleaning-of-vinyl-records-3rd-edition/ and look at the last table in Chapter XIV Table XXVII UCM Pump-Filter System Parts List and review the row Filter Canister Pressure Monitor.
As the filter removes debris, the pressure-drop across the filter slowly increases, but that filter last upwards of 12-months. Also, that filter will keep the tank very clean. The pump is drawing suction from the bottom of the tank, and you want to place the filter outlet hose on the opposite side about 2-3" below the surface (the helps circulation and minimizes foam).
Keep in mind that this applies to UT tanks 60-kHz and less. You can run the filter with UT at say 80-kHz. So, if using an Elmasonic P-series 38/80-kHz, when operating at 38-kHz, do not run the filter unless you meet the criteria specified in XIV.6.3.e, but when operating 80-kHz, run the filter. A common cleaning procedure for the Elmasonic P-series is 10-min auto-cycling between 37-kHz and 80-kHz; then 10-min at 80-kHz.
FYI - the reason flow has an effect has to do with the difference in the size and time it takes for the cavitation bubble form. At low frequencies, the time for the cavitation bubble to form is 3-4 times longer than higher frequencies. Flow disrupts the growth of the cavitation bubble which causes lower cavitation energy.
Very fine (0.2-micron absolute) filters need the pump pressure to push the fluid through the filter. These pump-filter systems are not complex; once setup, they are pretty built-proof. The pumps I recommend are very reliable (and easily obtained) and as I said above, the very fine filters can last upwards 12-months. Most people get about 4-weeks on a tank before the TDS reads 5-10-ppm after which the bath is refreshed with the opportunity to wipe out the tank.
Thank you Neil! I have the same filter housing as @tima for the wash and I use Elmasonic P120H. I was using P60 for the rinse and has used his previous version of filter housing. I just got the P120H for rinse as well. I will check the chapter you are referring to - thx again
I was wondering about pressure. I bought all the pumps and canisters, filters etc, but never hooked them up. I sort of temp rigged it up, then found it awkward to have in my tank so I walked away.
If someone did not want to throw away water, they could drain into a clean white bucket, then run the water through the filters in a closed loop to clean.
I run the ultrasonic for about 30 records, then throw the water out and replace it with new. 0 Water makes new water fast and inexpensive.
Hi Neil.. This is the housing cap that I have for the rinse. Just read the chapter that you were referring to and I think I have to do with the housing lid that will not take the Pentek 143549 Gauge.
Instead, I will have to go with the "MEDIUM OPTION", right? If so, I would connect the Glycerin filled pressure Gauge to the "OUT" of the filter cap?
Jut noticed this diagram in the 3rd edition book which shows the pressure gauge is connect before the filter and after the pump.
That's correct. The outlet of the filter is essentially at zero pressure, so the gauge in front of the filter is enough to indicate the differential pressure (DP). Replace the filter when it reads about 11-12-psi. Note that the gauge will be near zero when the filter is first installed.
Note that the as the filter fouls, the pump pressure will increase but the flow essentially does not change - that's a characteristic of the Shurflo pump type - positive displacement.
Also, be advised that the time to filter the tank is not the tank volume/pump flow rate - see the book XIV.16.3 for the calculation.
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That is one way to do it.
The challenge with your method, is that after the first batch of records, the following records are exposed to whatever was removed from the prior records. But everyone's cleaning process is what's best for them.
For people cleaning lots of records, the Zero-water tabletop units may not produce enough water https://www.zerowater.com/?irclicki...ource=Bing Rebates by Microsoft&irpid=2003851 and the amount the produce is very dependent on your local tap-water which can vary widely.
For power users, who do not want to go down the filter route or do not want to stock up gallons of DIW, I recommend https://liquagen.com/collections/5-...di-aquarium-reef-water-filter-system-75-gpd-1. The system offered by this company uses standard size filters making replacements easier.
Hi Neil/@tima
Last question.. Looking at the rinse filter and I am noticing the width of the filter is 2-3/4" (https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...-pleated-poly-0-35-mic?variant=13249867808811) instead of 2.5". I assume that will fit if I were to use Pentek 150574 filter housing?
Last question.. Looking at the rinse filter and I am noticing the width of the filter is 2-3/4" (https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...-pleated-poly-0-35-mic?variant=13249867808811) instead of 2.5". I assume that will fit if I were to use Pentek 150574 filter housing?
No problem, the housing can handle 2-1/4" to 3-1/8" https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...eets/310103-pentek-3g-standard-spec-sheet.pdf
FYI - here is a 0-60 psi liquid filled with 3/8" hose barb fitting - this is perfect and inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/MEANLIN-MEASURE-Stainless-Glycerin-Pressure/dp/B0D8Y653ST/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2i9PgpbU27SlCIachD1Yp2vNxZ_Ka4fcPeyNY3vnsQrUh8g2LZUoz0RDyPKbjUrk53x-m761mfCCYg6omoLqd-pqZaaDuIpKoInaR-qmpLwi-JSPk7z9PRCCmPKocqxI.3IQLPt7EWZQ9puEXLB7zCruLTz5NRk7gJtvYJbuSmXo&dib_tag=se&keywords=0~60Psi+Stainless+Steel+1/8"+NPT+1.5"+FACE+DIAL.+Glycerin+Filled+Fuel+Pressure+Gauge&qid=1733063213&sr=8-3&th=1
When you first operate with a new filter, the pressure may be relatively high (>10 psig). It will drop as the filter wets-out. Once it stabilizes, the pressure may still be about 5-psig. It all depends on the pump location (is it below the tank) and how much tubing you installed. Whatever it is - record it. Then replace the filter when its 11-12 psig above that initial value.
As an option, it's all up to you, install another gauge on the filter outlet and then replace when the difference between the two gauges is 11-12 psi. This what the Pentek gauge is measuring - it's the pressure difference between the inlet and outlet. Personally, I think the single gauge is fine; but everyone is different.
Hmm.. couldn't resist to ask if there is an impact of using too much tubing between these different devices? Also, is there a nominal length that is recommended?
The nominal length is based on the pump suction and head specifications. For most everyone, this is not an issue, but FWIW - keep the pump less than 4-feet above the tank; but this is not expected since the pump is generally either level with or below the tank. For the discharge side of the pump, keep the total hose/tubing less than 20-feet.
Here are the hoses on my Wash Tank:
Tank to pump ~ 12 inches
Pump to filter ~ 24 inches
Filter to 2nd elbow ~ 14 inches
Elbow to tank ~ 6 inches
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