Wilson X1/Grand Slamm: Still Improving after 20 years!

[LL21]

OK Gents, here are 3 photos of improvements I have made to my X1s.

1. Ultra 5s in lieu of Wilson spikes
2. Entreq Vibb X mass damper on top of upper modules...really helps still images, gives upper range greater alacrity, freedom and air
3. TA Ref XL jumpers IN ADDITION to the 1/4" thick copper jumper plate...substantial improvement in bass detail, articulation and 'nimbleness'...but surprisingly far better, clearer mids/upper treble extension and detail as well...a far more capable transducer under complex orchestral

In addition to these 3 photos, I also changed the original Titanium tweeter to the latest generation Focal Titanium (the original ones finally conked out and started to crackle under high volume).

Finally, I also will be auditioning Entreq AC wraps around all 5 sets of cables that connect the various modules...when those come in, I will take photos of those as well. I also may have a custom mass damping piece for the back of the unit...to be determined. There is an audio manufacturer who uses Alexandrias as his reference and is trying to help.

all for now...

 

[jfrech]

Let's see a pic of the whole room ....we can never be satisfied ...

What are the jumpers connecting? I can see the speaker cable on the bottom and the right seems like it's going up to one of the modules...

 

[LL21]

Let's see a pic of the whole room ....we can never be satisfied ...

What are the jumpers connecting? I can see the speaker cable on the bottom and the right seems like it's going up to one of the modules...

There are 3 sets of binding posts...the lower middle ones are obviously to the main amp. The upper right is apparently the crossover to the upper modules. I am told the lower left is bass crossover/module. as you can see, there is a copper plate connecting those 2 binding posts to each other...its about 2 inches long, maybe an 1 tall and 1/4 inch thick.

there is a guy who owns X1s and has basically bi-wired them to his ML33 Ref monos...and found the improvements to be so dramatic he says he declined to go with the Wilson X2s when he said he auditioned them in his system. I have spoken with a few people who were encouraging me to bi-amp these but that involves removing the passive bass crossover...not for me.

As for the X1 owner who wrote that he prefers his X1s bi-wired over X2s...I was skeptical, but certainly felt it was worth experimenting with a jumper (not bi-wire) since I had a pair of TA Ref jumpers from my old SF Guarneris. He said the X1 'melts down' in comparison with X2, if not bi-wired. But bi-wired, he prefers the X1.

After I put my jumpers IN PLACE of the copper plate, I lost a good deal of dynamic attack and realism...but liked some of the more natural overtones of mid-range notes. but overall, it was inferior...so I put the Wilson copper plate back but ADDED the TA Ref jumper cables and that was the start. You could immediately hear all manner of benefit from vastly more articulate bass, greater separation in mids...and generally the speaker seemed far more composed under the duress of large scale orchestral. Except the 10-yr old TA Ref was showing its 'voicing of old' where the upper treble and extreme transients were just ever so slightly softened.

Now with TA Ref XL MM2 (latest generation) jumpers it has made a huge-I-a'int-going-back kind of improvement. Stunning all around...

We shall see what RefMM (MM2) or Opus MM2 bring when they arrive for audition...

 

[DEV]

OK Gents, here are 3 photos of improvements I have made to my X1s.

all for now...

View attachment 17702 View attachment 17701 View attachment 17703

Teaser shots I see, you know how it is we gotta see the whole room and gear

 

[rockitman]

What's with the nut sack on top of the speaker ? Whole room shot please...

 

[XV-1]

What's with the nut sack on top of the speaker ? Whole room shot please...

Looks one of those punching bags that is on a stick . If it works thou

 

[LL21]

What's with the nut sack on top of the speaker ?...

Looks one of those punching bags that is on a stick . If it works thou

Entreq (as in grounding) makes Vibb Eaters...basically leather bags that weigh up to 15 lbs filled with some kind of mix of metals, etc...I am aware of 2 people (Focal Grande Utopia and Magico S5) who thought their speakers were not vulnerable to vibration. Both of them it seems have not only bought them...but actually bought a few. I have also heard of someone who recently decided to use them on the back box of his ML CLX. I am told another owner uses them on big Gryphon or Vitus amps.

As XV-1 says, i found in my system 'it works'. The images of the upper/mids have stilled significantly, and the response/transients are far more electrostatic-like...quite a lot of fun. But again, my speakers are quite old, and (if not for the fact that the new Focal and Magico apparently benefit as well)...I was going to chalk it up to the fact that the older design of the X1 may not have been quite as robust as the latest. In fact, they definitely are not...but nevertheless even 'inert' speakers like the S5 apparently benefit from them according to owners who it seems originally thought 'I aint putting that thing on top of my speakers'.

The nice thing is, in the US, Entreq is distributed by Stillpoints, so it should be a bit easier to try the Entreq Vibbs now than it was before.

 

[LL21]

Hi Gents,

I took some photos and will try to load up later. Meanwhile, I can confirm that I am liking what I hear from the Entreq AC wraps around the various internal cables that connect the Wilson modules. As with my other equipment, when I use them, the system gets quieter and quieter, and not only do more details emerge but they are also more natural, fuller. Whereas sometimes a long furious passage of notes ends a bit messy...now the end decays fully and properly with no 'built up mess' from a long fury of piano notes that sometimes can create a bit of chaos towards the end of the passage (I presume from vibration, lack of control in the cone? distortion?)

In any event, everything seems that much more composed under duress...exactly as I experienced it when I first put AC wraps around certain cables in my electronics. I do not like them near Transparent network box cables...except in one location...just before the SC enters the speaker at the back.

For those who now have access to Entreq/Stillpoints, I would recommend for some fun to try: Ultra 5s, Entreq Vibb X (the big ones) for the upper module and AC Silver mini-wraps and Silver larger wraps for the various cables that connect the Wilson modules. For me, they bring the best of the signal out of the speaker, strengthen that signal, bring out details and an ease of presenting complex materials with greater delineation of different musical lines (while keeping them all together as a musical whole) in a very, very nice way.

And relative to [some] audio tweaks, the Vibb X and wraps are very good value for money...like going from standard to great NOS tubes. Generally, you don't want to go back...and you generally get the feeling you are hearing more of what your system is truly capable of delivering.

will post pics later...

 

[LL21]

Here are 2 photos showing the Entreq AC Wraps around some of the Wilson internal cables that connect to the modules/crossovers:

 

[LL21]

so I am told by my local Transparent dealer that there is no Transparent Opus jumper, only RefMM (MM2). I think this makes sense because I believe the difference between Opus and RefMM (MM2) is the network boxes, not the cable itself which is in fact identical for both.

Can anyone else confirm?

 

[LL21]

Quick question:

On the front surfaces of the Wilson, are all hex screws around each cone supposed to be super-tight/immoveable?

I believe the side screws for adjusting the modules are NOT supposed to be super tight, and in fact I have left them as set up by the Distributor.

But my speakers are old, and I wanted to ask about the front hex screws that hold each cone in place...as well as the hex screws for the back 2 tweeters, etc.

I suspect they should be supertight...thanks for any guidance on this...

 

[wsill]

Lloyd,
Since I recently had my 12" Focal woofers re-foamed on my X-1's; I did distinctly notice that all the hex screws were very tight.
This was on both the woofer sections and all the drivers above including the ambiance tweeter.
I re-installed my 12: woofers very tight.
On the upper array bolts holding the drivers in time alignment these bolts should only be hand tightened. (per X-1 manual).
(also on my Timing Blades there is a little sticker warning to only finger tighten the array bolts)

Bill

 

[LL21]

Lloyd,
Since I recently had my 12" Focal woofers re-foamed on my X-1's; I did distinctly notice that all the hex screws were very tight.
This was on both the woofer sections and all the drivers above including the ambiance tweeter.
I re-installed my 12: woofers very tight.
On the upper array bolts holding the drivers in time alignment these bolts should only be hand tightened. (per X-1 manual).
(also on my Timing Blades there is a little sticker warning to only finger tighten the array bolts)

Bill

Perfect...that's what I suspected. I have tightened all the hex screws on front, back and on top. It did make a slight improvement in the alacrity/transients.

 

[wsill]

Lloyd,

You have been experimenting with the effects of replacing the solid Copper jumper on the Bass jumper terminals, augmenting the Copper plate with Transp Ref Jumper Cables. I've been reading with allot of interest back in post #9.

When I took out my 12" woofers for re-foam I decided to flip the Bass cabinets upside down and check to see if the Bass ballast resistor was there and check on the value of. Relatively easy to get to once you have the Bass units flipped upside down. So everything as expected per Series V upgrade directions.

But; the reason for my post here is: I thought you would be very interested to see the attached diagram which shows where the 3 sets of input terminals on go.
This picture was included with the Series V upgrade directions. (Debbie: I hope I not violating any Wilson Audio protected documents)

Maybe this helps you with the quest determining the best 'copper plate' method ?
Let me know what you think.

Bill

 

[LL21]

Thank you! Fascinating...much appreciated. I have had to determine what's best 'by ear'. So far, I have decided that keeping the Wilson copper bar and ADDING Transp Ref jumpers is best...and have just agreed a deal to trade in my old jumpers and buy TA RefMM jumpers (their highest level) after comparing my Ref jumpers to the latest RefXL (which were clearly better). I am not sure technically what the diagram would 'translate' in terms of what I am doing...all I know is, I prefer it.

And interestingly, the Dealer had independently decided to order 4-5 sets of TA RefXL jumpers to use on every jumper for their Focal Grande EMs...there are 4-5 jumpers I think. When I came to them with my observations after having tried my jumpers at home, they had already been experimenting with the big Focals in their demo room.

Lloyd,

You have been experimenting with the effects of replacing the solid Copper jumper on the Bass jumper terminals, augmenting the Copper plate with Transp Ref Jumper Cables. I've been reading with allot of interest back in post #9.

When I took out my 12" woofers for re-foam I decided to flip the Bass cabinets upside down and check to see if the Bass ballast resistor was there and check on the value of. Relatively easy to get to once you have the Bass units flipped upside down. So everything as expected per Series V upgrade directions.

But; the reason for my post here is: I thought you would be very interested to see the attached diagram which shows where the 3 sets of input terminals on go.
This picture was included with the Series V upgrade directions. (Debbie: I hope I not violating any Wilson Audio protected documents)

Maybe this helps you with the quest determining the best 'copper plate' method ?
Let me know what you think.

Bill

 

[thedudeabides]

Assuming you can pull the drivers and access the cabinet interior and if you want cheap but effective, try the most robust "Road Kill" product.

It is used to dampen / eliminate sheet metal ringing in hi end car audio applications.

I have used it on various "box" speakers that I've had over the years and the difference is clearly audible. And much for the better.

For giggles, try it on one of the smaller cabinets (both speakers) and see if you can hear a difference. I suspect you will.

Can always remove if you don't like.

PS: While the drivers are detached, also recommend that you place strips on the basket ribs. This process is a bit time consuming but, IMHO, well worth it.

 

[LL21]

Assuming you can pull the drivers and access the cabinet interior and if you want cheap but effective, try the most robust "Road Kill" product.

It is used to dampen / eliminate sheet metal ringing in hi end car audio applications.

I have used it on various "box" speakers that I've had over the years and the difference is clearly audible. And much for the better.

For giggles, try it on one of the smaller cabinets (both speakers) and see if you can hear a difference.

Can always remove if you don't like.

Interesting! I am already setting up to have a 40kg mass damping thing for the back of the bass cabinet and upper modules...will be interesting to hear if it works. I suspect it will based on some very crude experiments so far.

Where do i find out more about this product?

 

[thedudeabides]

Google "road kill sound dampening". Made by Stinger.

This isn't a "mass" solution but goes to the heart of attenuating speaker wall / driver vibrations.

 

[ack]

I am using RoadKill as well in my cabinets - and they are totally dead; very significant improvement in bass articulation.

 

[LL21]

Google "road kill sound dampening". Made by Stinger.

This isn't a "mass" solution but goes to the heart of attenuating speaker wall / driver vibrations.

Thank you...interesting...will discuss with the manufacturers who are looking at my mass damping options. They own Alexandrias as their own reference speakers in their listening room...so that is very helpful for our discussions.