The Router Manual is almost finished. I'm just adding the final touches to it, and then it needs proofreading/checking by Emile. I've uploaded the draft version below for those eager to dive in. While it should be all but complete and at least 98% correct, please note that it may contain errors, so proceed with a dash of caution.
The Router Manual is almost finished. I'm just adding the final touches to it, and then it needs proofreading/checking by Emile. I've uploaded the draft version below for those eager to dive in. While it should be all but complete and at least 98% correct, please note that it may contain errors, so proceed with a dash of caution.
Hi Christian.. did a brief review of the manual. Wondering if there should be some documentation on how to use the DCD (which dc outlet on the DCD to use) for someone who is using the DCD/Router/Switch combo for the first time? If this has been documented already, may be provide the link indicating 'for more details....<link>' ? Just a suggestion
Hi Christian.. did a brief review of the manual. Wondering if there should be some documentation on how to use the DCD (which dc outlet on the DCD to use) for someone who is using the DCD/Router/Switch combo for the first time? If this has been documented already, may be provide the link indicating 'for more details....<link>' ? Just a suggestion
I asked the same question and according to Emile, all options are in play as it becomes a hodge hodge of mix and match. Plus the effects will seem to vary between users and users systems, so try it all
Today I am going to start with the filter Alt1. I will leave router on default and switch on alt1 for 4-5 days until I try another option
I asked the same question and according to Emile, all options are in play as it becomes a hodge hodge of mix and match. Plus the effects will seem to vary between users and users systems, so try it all
Today I am going to start with the filter Alt1. I will leave router on default and switch on alt1 for 4-5 days until I try another option
Steve, just as suggestion, since both default filters have already gone through burn in, perhaps now put the switch at Alt1 and router at Alt2 for a five days burn in so you can try all alternatives in five days.
Steve, just as suggestion, since both default filters have already gone through burn in, perhaps now put the switch at Alt1 and router at Alt2 for a five days burn in so you can try all alternatives in five days.
Hi Christian.. did a brief review of the manual. Wondering if there should be some documentation on how to use the DCD (which dc outlet on the DCD to use) for someone who is using the DCD/Router/Switch combo for the first time? If this has been documented already, may be provide the link indicating 'for more details....<link>' ? Just a suggestion
Thanks for the suggestion. There is a separate Product Summary document for the DC Power Distributor, and I intend on making a manual as well. It is a good point to provide a link/hint for this. Will do
The Router Manual is almost finished. I'm just adding the final touches to it, and then it needs proofreading/checking by Emile. I've uploaded the draft version below for those eager to dive in. While it should be all but complete and at least 98% correct, please note that it may contain errors, so proceed with a dash of caution.
Why not just go to the local hardware store purchase two shorter stainless steel allen head bolts?
Total cost less than $2 USD. Even in the very small town I live near there are at least three stores that have what are called "small parts" displays -- bins full of assorted stainless, brass, steel and nylon small fasteners of all standard sizes. Nuts, bolts, washers and specialty fasteners. Just take the original too-long bolts with so that you get the correct diameter and thread pitch.
For those who live in areas where this kind of fastener is not readily available Taiko could perhaps mail a pair of the correct bolts to the affected customer(s).
If I understand the question correctly, is there a difference in burn-in between powering up (applying voltage) and powering up *and* drawing operating current through a device?
In my limited experience, some burn in occurs simply by virtue of applying a voltage. However, burn-in occurs faster and more effectively when operating current is actually drawn through the device being burned in.
Why not just go to the local hardware store purchase two shorter stainless steel allen head bolts?
Total cost less than $2 USD. Even in the very small town I live near there are at least three stores that have what are called "small parts" displays -- bins full of assorted stainless, brass, steel and nylon small fasteners of all standard sizes. Nuts, bolts, washers and specialty fasteners. Just take the original too-long bolts with so that you get the correct diameter and thread pitch.
For those who live in areas where this kind of fastener is not readily available Taiko could perhaps mail a pair of the correct bolts to the affected customer(s).
The manual suggests regular updates to keep the f/w up to date (and secure) and shows where the router will notify us of an available update. This seems to me to be unnecessarily burdensome if it requires us to regularly log into the router just to see if an update is available.
Would it be possible to have the "router update available" indicator ported to the control app/tablet?
Taiko can of course supply this data. However, all decent hardware stores that I frequent have a sizing card that will show diameter and thread pitch. Assuming one can take a small bolt to the store without losing it on the way.
A quick way to determine if thread pitch matches is to place the old bolt and the new bolt thread to thread. If the thread pitch is the same they will mesh completely. If not, they won't.
Taiko can of course supply this data. However, all decent hardware stores that I frequent have a sizing card that will show diameter and thread pitch. Assuming one can take a small bolt to the store without losing it on the way.
A quick way to determine if thread pitch matches is to place the old bolt and the new bolt thread to thread. If the thread pitch is the same they will mesh completely. If not, they won't.
Why not just go to the local hardware store purchase two shorter stainless steel allen head bolts?
Total cost less than $2 USD. Even in the very small town I live near there are at least three stores that have what are called "small parts" displays -- bins full of assorted stainless, brass, steel and nylon small fasteners of all standard sizes. Nuts, bolts, washers and specialty fasteners. Just take the original too-long bolts with so that you get the correct diameter and thread pitch.
For those who live in areas where this kind of fastener is not readily available Taiko could perhaps mail a pair of the correct bolts to the affected customer(s).
The manual contains all the menu-related information that is available to me at this time. I will add anything I learn in the coming days as I start experimenting. Otherwise, in-depth options may be added in a later revision.