Amazing close up.Hi,
it's a shibata stylus (made by Namiki I believe) which makes it hard to measure SRA. when it's measured based on shank boundaries SRA is around 96.5 degrees. since it's a shibata stylus which has an asymmetrical profile I don't think that measurement is accurate. when I measure only the edges that touch the groove SRA is around 91.7 degrees, but it's hard to be sure. with micro ridge and super fine line it's much easier.
stylus landed on a cd with green marker on the edge but it can not be seen on the picture. I hope mirror image is sufficient. I know there are a lot of members using usb microscope for SRA measurement and I want to ask,
what is your SRA estimate of this stylus?
Hi,
it's a shibata stylus (made by Namiki I believe) which makes it hard to measure SRA. when it's measured based on shank boundaries SRA is around 96.5 degrees. since it's a shibata stylus which has an asymmetrical profile I don't think that measurement is accurate. when I measure only the edges that touch the groove SRA is around 91.7 degrees, but it's hard to be sure. with micro ridge and super fine line it's much easier.
stylus landed on a cd with green marker on the edge but it can not be seen on the picture. I hope mirror image is sufficient. I know there are a lot of members using usb microscope for SRA measurement and I want to ask,
what is your SRA estimate of this stylus?
thanks for the information.View attachment 81675
Above is the Shibata datasheet. Based on the angle (24+-1 deg, i.e. 23-25 deg) circled in red, your cantilever should be at an angle of 25-27 degrees with the record surface for SRA = 92 deg. While it is extremely difficult to measure SRA accurately for any stylus profile, it is much easier to measure the aforementioned cantilever angle. Needless to say, one needs that 24 deg angle for any stylus accurately. Even Shabata manufacturer specifies +-1 deg. At least, we have a useful guide if we have that angle.
I know there are the 'by ear', 'by sight' and 'by electrical output' measurement camps but please know that I really appreciate the fact that you care and are doing all this research and development!I have yet to find a USB scope with a large enough receptor to image Shibata profiles. It's not a matter of pixel density and almost entirely to do with the receptor size. The WallyScope is about to be released and has only 2.0 megapixels but a very large receptor so the images are fantastic. I'll offer it for rent to WallyTools owners in order to save them the $$ on a purchase.
As for the photo, without a horizontal reference to measure the angles against I'd normally declare this an impossible photo to do work from (you need to get the stylus RIGHT ON the edge of the CD). However, the reflected image is so excellent that we can use that to find the bisection line - that would be your horizontal line to measure from ASSUMING that the photo was taken perpendicular to the cantilever. By way of reference: a six degree off-perpendicular photographic angle results in about a 3 degree error in your rake angle.
The WallyScope uses an approach where you can take a close-up photo of the stylus without resting on any surface at all to get the first of two data points needed to calculate the dynamic rake angle.
Speaking of which: don't forget to measure the dynamic effect before arriving at your final rake angle! I've seen as much as 2.25 degrees change to rake angle under dynamic conditions.
Thanks, @Solypsa!I sure
I know there are the 'by ear', 'by sight' and 'by electrical output' measurement camps but please know that I really appreciate the fact that you care and are doing all this research and development!
Thanks for bringing out the importance of that horizontal line. I always have difficulty determining exactly where that line is even if I place a toothpick lined up (?) with the long edge of the cartridge body.....
As for the photo, without a horizontal reference to measure the angles against I'd normally declare this an impossible photo to do work from ....
I'll show everyone soon how to measure the rake without having a platform from which to generate the horizontal reference line at all. I need time to finish the WallyScope.Thanks for bringing out the importance of that horizontal line. I always have difficulty determining exactly where that line is even if I place a toothpick lined up (?) with the long edge of the cartridge body.
Well said.I'll show everyone soon how to measure the rake without having a platform from which to generate the horizontal reference line at all. I need time to finish the WallyScope.
Until then, get that stylus on the VERY PRECIPICE of your platform. This is one of three good reasons why I always use a "stylus slide" (as shown in my webinar) to drop the stylus onto. You can use a tiny strip of a playing card but make sure the edge facing the scope is a clean, new cut. Don't touch that edge so as to keep the fibers down and laying nicely.
The stylus slide:
1. allows the cantilever to fully relax since it will slide forward when the stylus lands on it
2. keeps the stylus from generating a chip of the platform material at its leading edge. It even takes a divot out of aluminum!!! This is why you don't lower a stylus to a non-moving record. If it makes it into the groove you have an instant pop you'll hear every time you play that record in that spot.
3. It allows you something to bring the stylus to the VERY, VERY edge of without worry about sliding off and down into some abyss. It will drop a total of 0.25mm or so. Big deal!
The reason you need that stylus at the VERY edge of the stylus slide is so that the stylus AND the horizontal reference (the stylus slide) can be simultaneously in focus.
I have seen some people focus first on the platform, place the horizontal reference line and then focus on the stylus with the horizontal reference line already laid down and then the angles of the stylus measured against the horizontal reference line. This will NOT work. Something called telecentricity error makes this process very inaccurate.
Hello @airbearingJ.R. Boisclair,
do you know this tool being more exact than the Fozgometer.
best
E.
www.AudioCirc.com
I would be very interested to know how they determined the proper amplitude for a 1kHz signal to replicate the coefficient of friction of an "average" amplitude groove with musical content. I know how it could be done, but it requires a laboratory setup and some experimentation. Perhaps there is a simpler way I do not know of.Hello J.R.,
the test tone was done at correct amplitude. The test LP is cut for 33 on one side and for 45 at the other side. The PDA works pretty well. Nevertheless you may correct a bad Azimut by ear too. It may need some experience but it is possible. In case you need clarity the PDA is a helpful instrument and much more serious than the Fozgometer (I have it and tried it).
i do have a digital oscilloscope. The only problem is you cannot compensate a wrong needle-zenith. All experiments in compensating cause too much collateral damage in other variables.
I am curious in learning from you what correction attempts you are proposing?
best
E.
www.AudioCirc.com
Some people claim to hear significant differences when changing SRA by small amounts. I would add that what they are hearing is the multiplying effect of rake angle changes on their already existing zenith error.
Thanks for bringing out the importance of that horizontal line. I always have difficulty determining exactly where that line is even if I place a toothpick lined up (?) with the long edge of the cartridge body.
Hi @tima. I'd put it another way: slight rake angle errors aren't terribly problematic in the absence of zenith and/or tracing error (see below on what the difference is). If zenith/tracing error is present then any rake error makes the zenith/tracing mechanical errors a good deal worse. We'll soon share the formula defining what "slight" and "a good deal" means.JR, It would seem you are saying that correct zenith is a necessary condition to optimal SRA.
I don't care much for the term either. Since very few people are talking about it right now (though I think it will be common knowledge amongst vinylphiles in the near future) perhaps we can coin a better term. I'm open to suggestions.Zenith is a confusing word for me. When you talk about zenith (zenith error, zenith tolerance, etc.), what is the object of your sentence?