High efficiency horn speaker amp question

Saturntube

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Feb 8, 2011
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There is a wide range of what is consdered a Horn speaker, we like to have front horn loaded from 120hz up.
At these frequencies one amplifier will make most of the music through the horn and given the inherent lower sensibility of the bass systems we use a separate amplifier for bass on most of our systems. For bass my personal favorite is ClassD, it seems to blend better with Single Ended tube amplifers running the horns from 100 hz up.
We have used almost every type of amplifier on our horn speakers and all sounded fantastic, given the high sensibility the amplifier will only be using the "First watt" it generates which is said to be the cleanest one. This makes horn speakers a fair ground to test any amplifier against each other without power limitations. I can tell you that a 2 watt amp can have more dynamic prowess than a 400 watt amp, and that a Class D amp can have sweeter highs than tubes, though for most class D highs are unbearable if the design is not top notch. Solid State Class A amps have a lot of detail, but Single Ended amps do a reconstruction of instruments that is more believable than SS, some of out favorite of all time amps are OTL. So take your pick!
 

DetroitVinylRob

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Nelson’s First Watt series has a lot to offer your horns and your music love. I’m just another one suggesting you taste-test this line. Tube amps would be my first choice, but I’m not you. With my analogue set up and OTL mono blocks we’ve run 59 valves between the AC mains and our ears for well over a dozen years. No problemo. Just saying... My top recommendation would be a pair of M60 Atma-Sphere OTLs.
 

loki1957

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Sep 19, 2012
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I have a pair of Viking Acoustics Berlin's. 96 db. I power them with a Symphonic Line Kraft 300 ss amp. Occasionally I'll put in my Jadis JA30s but usually not for long. The Kraft is supremely better amp
 
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Tango

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@bonzo75 . Big fella. What is SET meant for. Why do we have high 100+ watts tube amps these days.
 

bonzo75

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@bonzo75 . Big fella. What is SET meant for. Why do we have high 100+ watts tube amps these days.


SETs are best used where with the right speakers you will have more nuance, agility, purer tone, flow, compared to a non-SET, without giving up energy and bass. This is best done when the speakers require very less drive, less grip, less power. Optimal speakers for this are extremely few in number - full rangers without crossover or simple two ways with minimal crossovers and woofers that can be easily driven. The moment you require more drive, power, grunt, grip, and you use low powered SETs, you will get restrictions in dynamic range, and bloated, slow sound. At this point push pull valves and later high quality SS amps start sounding better. So the people who report bloat and distortion on SETs simply haven't heard them with the right speaker.

Ok, above is general theory, what does it mean in practice? If you have a speaker, and the chance to rotate amps, you will find certain speakers sound better as you move from high powered to low powered amps. Certain speakers sound better as you go the opposite, e.g. in the same room, with the Airtight 300b 10w amp and the 34 watt Airtight EL 34, the 300b sounded better on the Devore Orangutans, while the EL34 sounded better on the Cessaro Wagner (the Wagner was sounding restricted with the 300b, the Devore had more nuance, flow, ease with the 300b without giving up anything on dynamic range or bass). And yes, if anyone wants to know, I preferred the Devore even with the EL34 to the Wagner, but that is beside the context of this post.

In another room, the Devore sounded better with NAF 2a3, compared to Silvercore 833c (20w) or a 300b 20 watt amp or a jadis 100w integrated. But the NAF 2a3 had very restricted dynamic range with the Lansche in the same room and that required more power, ideally the Jadis. Now the Silvercore seems less nuanced compared to NAF 2a3 on the Orangutans, but comparing on vintage Tannoys, it is much more nuanced than KR audio integrated, and we preferred the SIlvercore even though there the KR had better drive and bass - the silvercore had enough to have a better balance with the added nuance.

Just to clarify, when I say nuance, I hear it in more inflections, and more notes within the same period, be it violin, or piano, or cello, or vocals. More intranote detail, rather than being glossed over.

Apart from Airtight, we have also done same manufacturer compares with Thomas Mayer's 46 vs 211 on Pnoe, and also compared NAT Magma on it. Compared Silvercore 883 20w to another 833c Audio Music 120w amp on a harder to drive speaker.

The small tubes are mainly 45, 46, 2a3, 4p1L, 604, AD1, PX4, PX25. There are many, too many to hear, but if you try two and your speaker runs out of steam you will know. There are extremely few speakers in this category of tubes. You will have to build your own with vintage woofers in a simple 2 to 3 way, or get a commercial full ranger like Pnoe or build one with AER or Lowther based on your budget. Or you will have to biamp the woofer with a more powerful amp. Unfortunately, the experience of this forum with such tubes and well matched speakers is pretty poor compared to others.

Now, as you start crossing 10 watts requirement, you will find that these NAF 2a3 types, which are not single ended but PSETs or push pulls like Cubes EL84, start sounding very good. They are bringing in more drive and still having sufficient nuance. It will then be a toss up between them, and a 211, or GM70 types. You will immediately lose nuance but gain drive and power compared to single ended 45 or 46, so overall on such speakers the higher power will sound better. Does the transformer matter? Of course. But I don't know anyone who puts a 211 transformer on a 45 amp. That is also why the lower power SETs are quite low cost - they just require much less in material.

There could be Lamm at 30 watts, Kronzilla at 50, special ones like Allnic which do powerful versions with 300bs which go up to 50 watts. If you need more than this you are really into territory with one or two SETs like NAT and the rest push pulls like CAT, Audio Research, VAC, etc. There are some exceptions, mostly one offs, like the KR VA 200, or Eimac based SETs like the Trafomatic Elysium which cross 100 watts. If your speaker has impedance dropping and requiring more drive and grip you are then requiring quality solid state amps (which I prefer to push pulls like AR or VTL or to these powerful SETs like NAT at that stage, i.e. on speakers like Apogee, Martin Logans, or any of the regular cones like Wilson, Magico).
 
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Tango

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SETs are best used where with the right speakers you will have more nuance, agility, purer tone, flow, compared to a non-SET, without giving up energy and bass. This is best done when the speakers require very less drive, less grip, less power. Optimal speakers for this are extremely few in number - full rangers without crossover or simple two ways with minimal crossovers and woofers that can be easily driven. The moment you require more drive, power, grunt, grip, and you use low powered SETs, you will get restrictions in dynamic range, and bloated, slow sound. At this point push pull valves and later high quality SS amps start sounding better. So the people who report bloat and distortion on SETs simply haven't heard them with the right speaker.

Ok, above is general theory, what does it mean in practice? If you have a speaker, and the chance to rotate amps, you will find certain speakers sound better as you move from high powered to low powered amps. Certain speakers sound better as you go the opposite, e.g. in the same room, with the Airtight 300b 10w amp and the 34 watt Airtight EL 34, the 300b sounded better on the Devore Orangutans, while the EL34 sounded better on the Cessaro Wagner (the Wagner was sounding restricted with the 300b, the Devore had more nuance, flow, ease with the 300b without giving up anything on dynamic range or bass). And yes, if anyone wants to know, I preferred the Devore even with the EL34 to the Wagner, but that is beside the context of this post.

In another room, the Devore sounded better with NAF 2a3, compared to Silvercore 833c (20w) or a 300b 20 watt amp or a jadis 100w integrated. But the NAF 2a3 had very restricted dynamic range with the Lansche in the same room and that required more power, ideally the Jadis. Now the Silvercore seems less nuanced compared to NAF 2a3 on the Orangutans, but comparing on vintage Tannoys, it is much more nuanced than KR audio integrated, and we preferred the SIlvercore even though there the KR had better drive and bass - the silvercore had enough to have a better balance with the added nuance.

Just to clarify, when I say nuance, I hear it in more inflections, and more notes within the same period, be it violin, or piano, or cello, or vocals. More intranote detail, rather than being glossed over.

Apart from Airtight, we have also done same manufacturer compares with Thomas Mayer's 46 vs 211 on Pnoe, and also compared NAT Magma on it. Compared Silvercore 883 20w to another 833c Audio Music 120w amp on a harder to drive speaker.

The small tubes are mainly 45, 46, 2a3, 4p1L, 604, AD1, PX4, PX25. There are many, too many to hear, but if you try two and your speaker runs out of steam you will know. There are extremely few speakers in this category of tubes. You will have to build your own with vintage woofers in a simple 2 to 3 way, or get a commercial full ranger like Pnoe or build one with AER or Lowther based on your budget. Or you will have to biamp the woofer with a more powerful amp. Unfortunately, the experience of this forum with such tubes and well matched speakers is pretty poor compared to others.

Now, as you start crossing 10 watts requirement, you will find that these NAF 2a3 types, which are not single ended but PSETs or push pulls like Cubes EL84, start sounding very good. They are bringing in more drive and still having sufficient nuance. It will then be a toss up between them, and a 211, or GM70 types. You will immediately lose nuance but gain drive and power compared to single ended 45 or 46, so overall on such speakers the higher power will sound better. Does the transformer matter? Of course. But I don't know anyone who puts a 211 transformer on a 45 amp. That is also why the lower power SETs are quite low cost - they just require much less in material.

There could be Lamm at 30 watts, Kronzilla at 50, special ones like Allnic which do powerful versions with 300bs which go up to 50 watts. If you need more than this you are really into territory with one or two SETs like NAT and the rest push pulls like CAT, Audio Research, VAC, etc. There are some exceptions, mostly one offs, like the KR VA 200, or Eimac based SETs like the Trafomatic Elysium which cross 100 watts. If your speaker has impedance dropping and requiring more drive and grip you are then requiring quality solid state amps (which I prefer to push pulls like AR or VTL or to these powerful SETs like NAT at that stage, i.e. on speakers like Apogee, Martin Logans, or any of the regular cones like Wilson, Magico).
Thank you.
 
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DasguteOhr

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Sep 26, 2013
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When you want go SS amp read this..review i can not better describe
This small Class A mono amps destroy many expensive power amplifiers. they are quick and never sound unpleasant. my recommendation they are noiseless over -120dB perfect for horns.
47401-0-47401.jpg Omtec-CA-25-V3-Monoblöcke-Monoblock-Mono-Endstufe-Class-A.jpg
 

morricab

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Apr 25, 2014
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Switzerland
SETs are best used where with the right speakers you will have more nuance, agility, purer tone, flow, compared to a non-SET, without giving up energy and bass. This is best done when the speakers require very less drive, less grip, less power. Optimal speakers for this are extremely few in number - full rangers without crossover or simple two ways with minimal crossovers and woofers that can be easily driven. The moment you require more drive, power, grunt, grip, and you use low powered SETs, you will get restrictions in dynamic range, and bloated, slow sound. At this point push pull valves and later high quality SS amps start sounding better. So the people who report bloat and distortion on SETs simply haven't heard them with the right speaker.

Ok, above is general theory, what does it mean in practice? If you have a speaker, and the chance to rotate amps, you will find certain speakers sound better as you move from high powered to low powered amps. Certain speakers sound better as you go the opposite, e.g. in the same room, with the Airtight 300b 10w amp and the 34 watt Airtight EL 34, the 300b sounded better on the Devore Orangutans, while the EL34 sounded better on the Cessaro Wagner (the Wagner was sounding restricted with the 300b, the Devore had more nuance, flow, ease with the 300b without giving up anything on dynamic range or bass). And yes, if anyone wants to know, I preferred the Devore even with the EL34 to the Wagner, but that is beside the context of this post.

In another room, the Devore sounded better with NAF 2a3, compared to Silvercore 833c (20w) or a 300b 20 watt amp or a jadis 100w integrated. But the NAF 2a3 had very restricted dynamic range with the Lansche in the same room and that required more power, ideally the Jadis. Now the Silvercore seems less nuanced compared to NAF 2a3 on the Orangutans, but comparing on vintage Tannoys, it is much more nuanced than KR audio integrated, and we preferred the SIlvercore even though there the KR had better drive and bass - the silvercore had enough to have a better balance with the added nuance.

Just to clarify, when I say nuance, I hear it in more inflections, and more notes within the same period, be it violin, or piano, or cello, or vocals. More intranote detail, rather than being glossed over.

Apart from Airtight, we have also done same manufacturer compares with Thomas Mayer's 46 vs 211 on Pnoe, and also compared NAT Magma on it. Compared Silvercore 883 20w to another 833c Audio Music 120w amp on a harder to drive speaker.

The small tubes are mainly 45, 46, 2a3, 4p1L, 604, AD1, PX4, PX25. There are many, too many to hear, but if you try two and your speaker runs out of steam you will know. There are extremely few speakers in this category of tubes. You will have to build your own with vintage woofers in a simple 2 to 3 way, or get a commercial full ranger like Pnoe or build one with AER or Lowther based on your budget. Or you will have to biamp the woofer with a more powerful amp. Unfortunately, the experience of this forum with such tubes and well matched speakers is pretty poor compared to others.

Now, as you start crossing 10 watts requirement, you will find that these NAF 2a3 types, which are not single ended but PSETs or push pulls like Cubes EL84, start sounding very good. They are bringing in more drive and still having sufficient nuance. It will then be a toss up between them, and a 211, or GM70 types. You will immediately lose nuance but gain drive and power compared to single ended 45 or 46, so overall on such speakers the higher power will sound better. Does the transformer matter? Of course. But I don't know anyone who puts a 211 transformer on a 45 amp. That is also why the lower power SETs are quite low cost - they just require much less in material.

There could be Lamm at 30 watts, Kronzilla at 50, special ones like Allnic which do powerful versions with 300bs which go up to 50 watts. If you need more than this you are really into territory with one or two SETs like NAT and the rest push pulls like CAT, Audio Research, VAC, etc. There are some exceptions, mostly one offs, like the KR VA 200, or Eimac based SETs like the Trafomatic Elysium which cross 100 watts. If your speaker has impedance dropping and requiring more drive and grip you are then requiring quality solid state amps (which I prefer to push pulls like AR or VTL or to these powerful SETs like NAT at that stage, i.e. on speakers like Apogee, Martin Logans, or any of the regular cones like Wilson, Magico).
The NAF 2A3 is Push/pull..
"In order to maximise output power and dynamic we decided to configure the output stage in Push Pull with fixed bias."
 

bonzo75

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morricab

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Apr 25, 2014
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All 2a3 above 3.5 watts are not single ended
You said in your post it was a PSET.

"Now, as you start crossing 10 watts requirement, you will find that these NAF 2a3 types, which are not single ended but PSETs" A PSET is parallel single ended. A PSET with 2A3s would make 7-8 watts.
 

Hear Here

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2020
744
460
155
Portsmouth, UK
When you want go SS amp read this..review i can not better describe
This small Class A mono amps destroy many expensive power amplifiers. they are quick and never sound unpleasant. my recommendation they are noiseless over -120dB perfect for horns.
View attachment 74892 View attachment 74893
Hi Stephan

Could you provide a link to the manufacturer's website please. I can't find any direst link - just to Ebay, etc.

I'd be hesitant in considering a product built by an anonymous maker, however good one owner says it is.

Thanks. Peter
 

Hear Here

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2020
744
460
155
Portsmouth, UK
The small tubes are mainly 45, 46, 2a3, 4p1L, 604, AD1, PX4, PX25. There are many, too many to hear, but if you try two and your speaker runs out of steam you will know. There are extremely few speakers in this category of tubes. You will have to build your own with vintage woofers in a simple 2 to 3 way, or get a commercial full ranger like Pnoe or build one with AER or Lowther based on your budget. Or you will have to biamp the woofer with a more powerful amp. Unfortunately, the experience of this forum with such tubes and well matched speakers is pretty poor compared to others.
Taking just your paragraph above, I'd mention that the best sound I ever heard from my earlier 101 dB Avantgarde horns was from a PX-25 Art Audio amplifier rated at 6 watts. With smaller scale music it was divine although it struggled a little with big beefy orchestral stuff. Since the AGs have powered woofers, they meet your criteria of low demand on low frequencies.

Since the days I had the PX-25, I've changed my AGs twice and now have the much more sensitive 107 dB Duo XDs. Perhaps I should consider a return to this amp.
 

bonzo75

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I haven't heard PX25 amps myself. I am scheduled to go to a couple of guys who own them but only after pandemic
 
Jan 18, 2012
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Drobak Norway
I tried biamping my all out hornsystem with Neurochrome Class D on FLH midbasses and my all out 300Bs from 550 and up and I could hear instruments and voices change character, when operating on both amps simultaneously...to me Class D is soul-less antiseptic gladpack sound
full range is even worse
 

DasguteOhr

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Sep 26, 2013
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Hi Stephan

Could you provide a link to the manufacturer's website please. I can't find any direst link - just to Ebay, etc.

I'd be hesitant in considering a product built by an anonymous maker, however good one owner says it is.

Thanks. Peter
Manfred Baier has withdrawn, as far as I know, he no longer makes devices. They can only be obtained used. Usual prices on Ebay 1000-1400 €.
There are currently none on the market. watch ebay germany.
In Germany very well known , also made good phono stages Omtec Antares
 

Hear Here

Well-Known Member
Feb 14, 2020
744
460
155
Portsmouth, UK
Manfred Baier has withdrawn, as far as I know, he no longer makes devices. They can only be obtained used. Usual prices on Ebay 1000-1400 €.
There are currently none on the market. watch ebay germany.
In Germany very well known , also made good phono stages Omtec Antares
It was this pair that I spotted on Ebay. More powerful and very expensive. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omtec-Audio-CA-60-Monoblock-power-amps-class-A-/113513626561

This is the trouble buying stuff from "one man bands", they come and go and once gone, their (possibly excellent) stuff is not supported, no one wants to fix them and no one wants to buy them used at anything like what they may have cost new.
 

DasguteOhr

Well-Known Member
Sep 26, 2013
2,421
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645
Germany
It was this pair that I spotted on Ebay. More powerful and very expensive. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omtec-Audio-CA-60-Monoblock-power-amps-class-A-/113513626561

This is the trouble buying stuff from "one man bands", they come and go and once gone, their (possibly excellent) stuff is not supported, no one wants to fix them and no one wants to buy them used at anything like what they may have cost new.
Yes... expensive new price of the devices. yes that's right there is no more service. a good techican can service this is not very complicated.
Wait for a better deal. Good luck
 

morricab

Well-Known Member
Apr 25, 2014
9,494
5,045
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Switzerland
I tried biamping my all out hornsystem with Neurochrome Class D on FLH midbasses and my all out 300Bs from 550 and up and I could hear instruments and voices change character, when operating on both amps simultaneously...to me Class D is soul-less antiseptic gladpack sound
full range is even worse
Try multi amping all with the same type of amp or even better the same exact amp however many you need. I can’t stand any classD I have heard to date.
 

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