Reality is Cruel : Cybershaft new Ultimate OCXO 10M Clocks Shootout OP20 vs OP17

[stevebythebay]

Finally had an opportunity to visit with an owner of the Cybershaft OP21a and external LPS. Though a very different system than my own, with slim speaker towers and separate subs, along with tube gear, in a much smaller room, it was still a very musical and detailed sonic image. So, I'm preparing to pull the trigger on a master clock purchase.

Leaning towards the OP21a though, for my system (see signature below), the Mutec Ref 10 SE120 might also do well. As I understand it, these will become available as production in the coming month. Not even clear who in the US will be carrying the new model.

What I'm uncertain about are both clock cable and length selections. Currently, I'm using 1.5M Transparent XLD for the dCS Clock to both Upsampler and DAC. I'm thinking of sticking with Transparent rather than going to Shunyata, though I'm a big fan of Caelin's products, with most recent Ethernet Sigma for Roon/EtherREGEN/Upsampler connections. I certainly will consider upgrading the stock power cords at some point.

Seems that cable length for this application rests on the quality of the cable. If it's not top-notch then the shorter the better. I'm inclined to stick with a meter or meter and a half run from the clock to dCS Clock and same for EtherREGEN, unless anyone thinks that's overkill.

From what I gather in reading this topic, the break-in period for the OP21a is similar to my experience with the EtherREGEN - took hundreds of hours to finally and fully settle into its happy space.

Appreciate any thoughts I should consider in making my decision of a clock, and cables, or anything else.

 

[SCAudiophile]

SCAudiophile, Thank you very much for your detail explanation.
Also, thanks to CKKeung and oldmustang.

Maybe this is the answer I keep asking myself why I never see such a system using dCS Vivaldi with Esoteric clock. In Thailand, 80-90% of Vivaldi owner only use its own clock while a few start applying Mutec and no one, as far as I know, use Cybershaft.

From your experience/knowledge, OP21A and Esoteric G1both have similar low phase noise and good Allan Variance. You did mention about power supplies and circuit onboard of Grandioso G1 is excellent. How about the OP21A?

Have you used the external power supply and Cybershaft spike to tweak its own clock?
If having external power supply is a good way to go, then it may be better to order their OP21A-D to cut off the interference of AC from the unit.

Apologies for the delays in responding to this and other posts I'll catch up on today; I've been off forums for many days, working alot at my
non-audio day job , listening when I can, etc...

Thank you very much for the feedback, it is very much appreciated!

The Grandioso G1 is an excellent 10Mhz master clock and from what I've seen, as mentioned before they line up in the key specs
across the board. Being a long term Eso owner and having heard the latest Grandioso P1/D1/G1 and P1X/D1X/G1 (no X yet AFAIK) and
the P02X and D02X, their power supplies are to me some of the best in the business. They've really hit the state of the art in their internal
PSUs. The distribution amplifier in the G1 must be top-class as well given the overall units extremely low phase noise and Allen behavior
and therefore extremely low jitter.

Candidly if money's not an object and you have an Eso stack and want aesthetics match, then go for the G1. I don't see how you cannot come
out on top. I've owned a G-0s and G-03X years ago, I would have G1 if money allowed. I'd also juice it up with a Cybershaft as a reference but
that's my choice.

I have real liking for the value / performance equation, customer service and what I hear out of my system particularly with Cybershaft.

I've not tried his separate PSU as OP21 is a prototype build with different internal layout from a few years ago, case around transformer, etc..
same wiring as used now and misc. other tweaks. The current productions do beat it I am told and if I bought again today I definitely go with
separate PSU for best effect. (Know 2 other owners that have and they tell me the result is definitely worth it).

Separate distribution unit: I know of no reason to split out and go with 2 boxes (or 3 with separate PSU) here. The separate box with
distribution board to split to 3 outputs. to my knowledge was introduced for all single-out owners to be able to deal with more drops
instead of daisy-chaining.

If I ordered again today, I'd get the multi-output OP21A and separate PSU, no question.

Spikes: Clearly a benefit versus stock feet but to be clear I've not used them and am going on what've heard only,
as I have used Stillpoint UltraSS with Ultra Bases for years and they do the trick. I would imagine Revopods or
IsoAcoustics Gaia 1's or 2's would do the trick quite nicely.

Circuit Board comparison: I cannot speak to that as I'm not an Engineer. I know both manufacturers are fanatic about quality
and I let the sound speak for itself.

CH Precision T1 has been mentioned on this thread. I've no direct experience of note with this clock; I did 'brush up against it' in Munich 2019 as at least 2 systems I remember used it. All I can say researching it is, great build quality, fit and finish and systems seem to sound great when it's in use. Wish I knew more.

Mutec REF10M: no direct experience except to review tech specs and learn from others' experiences. There is a lot of very favorable feedback out there...

Hope I answered all the questions...

 

[SCAudiophile]

Thank you Jpspock.
Yes, the Esoteric Grandioso G1 is about 3 times price of Cybershaft Op21 but if it is a noticeable upgrade, then it is good to go.

The 'upgrade' is the fit and finish of the Grandioso case works and possibly the quality of the Esoteric power supplies but sonically, i.e.
musically where it matters the G1 is not 3X the sonic performance of the OP21A with separate PSU.

 

[SCAudiophile]

Finally had an opportunity to visit with an owner of the Cybershaft OP21a and external LPS. Though a very different system than my own, with slim speaker towers and separate subs, along with tube gear, in a much smaller room, it was still a very musical and detailed sonic image. So, I'm preparing to pull the trigger on a master clock purchase.

Leaning towards the OP21a though, for my system (see signature below), the Mutec Ref 10 SE120 might also do well. As I understand it, these will become available as production in the coming month. Not even clear who in the US will be carrying the new model.

What I'm uncertain about are both clock cable and length selections. Currently, I'm using 1.5M Transparent XLD for the dCS Clock to both Upsampler and DAC. I'm thinking of sticking with Transparent rather than going to Shunyata, though I'm a big fan of Caelin's products, with most recent Ethernet Sigma for Roon/EtherREGEN/Upsampler connections. I certainly will consider upgrading the stock power cords at some point.

Seems that cable length for this application rests on the quality of the cable. If it's not top-notch then the shorter the better. I'm inclined to stick with a meter or meter and a half run from the clock to dCS Clock and same for EtherREGEN, unless anyone thinks that's overkill.

From what I gather in reading this topic, the break-in period for the OP21a is similar to my experience with the EtherREGEN - took hundreds of hours to finally and fully settle into its happy space.

Appreciate any thoughts I should consider in making my decision of a clock, and cables, or anything else.

On any clock a good quality power cord is a must IMHO. Need not be top of the, ridiculous expense (like many I use so guilty as charged ) but
something of the level of Shunyata Alpha NR V2 or SIGMA NR V2, a comparable price level Transparent or Nordost or other cord to your liking does
produce sonic improvements (in my case I've used Elrod Statement Silver and Statement Gold and Shunyata Alpha and Sigma NR both V2 level).

Clock cable length: opinions vary on this and I'm no expert; I keep my clock cables to 1.5m and presently 2m. There are many opinions out there and I have no desire to start a religious (cable spec, length, etc..) debate. 1.5m will do no harm. Focus quality and impedance match, i.e. compliance
to the spec.

Shunyata SIGMA CLOCK 'xx' (xx = 50 or 75) are the top of heap IMHO. Alpha CLOCK xx are very close but the step to SIGMA is noticeable.

I hear Nordost, Transparent, others make good ones too. My personal experience runs back through Esoteric-Mexcel 8N-A2000 (rare, execllent),
Kubala-Sosna (75 only , no 50s), Tara (long time ago, 75 only, no 50s), Analysis Plus Digital Oval2 (75 only no 50s). Many years later, you can pry Shunyata SIGMA CLOCK50s out of my dead fingers (LOL), they are staying until Caelin beats them with V2s or Omega.

Clock Break-In: yes, definitely applies. Cables too and especially cables. With the clocks I THINK (stress 'think' not 'know') it's really the PSUs and distribution boards that need it, not so much the Rb or OCXO Oven modules themselves but this is a hunch. Cables are imperative (IMHO) and require break-in. To me, clocks and cables hit their stride somewhere between 275 and 350 and some peak again 400-500 but 2 weeks+ of
solid break in, you have what you need. All again, IMHO.

 

[SCAudiophile]

The Scarlatti - as well as its forebear the Verona - can take 10Mhz inputs.

SC - have been remiss in not thanking you for your many years of diagnostics/exploration of clocks...your experimentation and resultant insights have helped my own system developments considerably! Much appreciated.

Thank you very much,....this is all for the love of music! Sorry I'm late to reply back...

 

[SCAudiophile]

Concerning Cybershaft 0p20 or op21 DC versions (15v 1A) where you need an external supply have you compared cybersfaft psu (BTW it is 13.5V out...) to other PSU (UpTone JS2, Sean Jacobs DC3 or DC4, Paul hynes, Farad super 3...)?

Second question:
Is it better to have
A) op21A-1 (single output, DC powered) And cybershap distribution unit (4 output, DC powered) powered by cybershaft psu (it has 2 DC output) OR
B) op21A with the distribution board inside with 4 outputs but powered by à single rail of cybershaft psu

Third question:
Can thé clock be powered by à rail from say à multirail Sean Jacob psu thé other rails powering for example thé switch between server and player, thé player sotm clock board clocking sotm usb card, sotm txusb card, player motherboard and server motherboard with no downsides ?

Hello,...I addressed many of these questions in a reply a few minutes ago.

Other vendor's PSU's with Cybershaft: I don't know and that's a damned good question. Like my HDPlex used with Legacy Wavelet I'd imagine
it's a matter of finding a voltage and amp/match and making sure you have a great quality PSU. When I get a chance, I'll ask Hasegawa-san, or you can and. may already have done so.

 

[stevebythebay]

On any clock a good quality power cord is a must IMHO. Need not be top of the, ridiculous expense (like many I use so guilty as charged ) but
something of the level of Shunyata Alpha NR V2 or SIGMA NR V2, a comparable price level Transparent or Nordost or other cord to your liking does
produce sonic improvements (in my case I've used Elrod Statement Silver and Statement Gold and Shunyata Alpha and Sigma NR both V2 level).

Clock cable length: opinions vary on this and I'm no expert; I keep my clock cables to 1.5m and presently 2m. There are many opinions out there and I have no desire to start a religious (cable spec, length, etc..) debate. 1.5m will do no harm. Focus quality and impedance match, i.e. compliance
to the spec.

Shunyata SIGMA CLOCK 'xx' (xx = 50 or 75) are the top of heap IMHO. Alpha CLOCK xx are very close but the step to SIGMA is noticeable.

I hear Nordost, Transparent, others make good ones too. My personal experience runs back through Esoteric-Mexcel 8N-A2000 (rare, execllent),
Kubala-Sosna (75 only , no 50s), Tara (long time ago, 75 only, no 50s), Analysis Plus Digital Oval2 (75 only no 50s). Many years later, you can pry Shunyata SIGMA CLOCK50s out of my dead fingers (LOL), they are staying until Caelin beats them with V2s or Omega.

Clock Break-In: yes, definitely applies. Cables too and especially cables. With the clocks I THINK (stress 'think' not 'know') it's really the PSUs and distribution boards that need it, not so much the Rb or OCXO Oven modules themselves but this is a hunch. Cables are imperative (IMHO) and require break-in. To me, clocks and cables hit their stride somewhere between 275 and 350 and some peak again 400-500 but 2 weeks+ of
solid break in, you have what you need. All again, IMHO.

Thanks. Now if I can only figure out what I need to order from the Cybershaft site. Seems the options are:

OP21a with built-in LPS, OP21a w/o built-in LPS and add external LPS, or adding an external LPS to one that already has one built-in. Right?

Specify AC110 voltage, I think.

Then with an external LPS specifying one of the offered DC cables unless there are others recommended. Let me know if you think what Cybershaft is selling is worthy.

And I suppose the Spike Insulator might be valuable, though I plan on placing the clock atop existing units in my rack.

Which brings up the question of placement. I get the impression that apart from keeping a distance between the clock and the LPS, there's no guidance on clock placement, other than keeping it from anything that would vibrate, right?

Let me know if you believe there are other considerations I need to look out for. And any idea how long from order to receipt it might be for the clock?

 

[SCAudiophile]

Thanks. Now if I can only figure out what I need to order from the Cybershaft site. Seems the options are:

OP21a with built-in LPS, OP21a w/o built-in LPS and add external LPS, or adding an external LPS to one that already has one built-in. Right?

Specify AC110 voltage, I think.

Then with an external LPS specifying one of the offered DC cables unless there are others recommended. Let me know if you think what Cybershaft is selling is worthy.

And I suppose the Spike Insulator might be valuable, though I plan on placing the clock atop existing units in my rack.

Which brings up the question of placement. I get the impression that apart from keeping a distance between the clock and the LPS, there's no guidance on clock placement, other than keeping it from anything that would vibrate, right?

Let me know if you believe there are other considerations I need to look out for. And any idea how long from order to receipt it might be for the clock?

Please let me know your source (transport or other), which DCS DAC, etc....

 

[oldmustang]

Finally had an opportunity to visit with an owner of the Cybershaft OP21a and external LPS. Though a very different system than my own, with slim speaker towers and separate subs, along with tube gear, in a much smaller room, it was still a very musical and detailed sonic image. So, I'm preparing to pull the trigger on a master clock purchase.

Leaning towards the OP21a though, for my system (see signature below), the Mutec Ref 10 SE120 might also do well. As I understand it, these will become available as production in the coming month. Not even clear who in the US will be carrying the new model.

What I'm uncertain about are both clock cable and length selections. Currently, I'm using 1.5M Transparent XLD for the dCS Clock to both Upsampler and DAC. I'm thinking of sticking with Transparent rather than going to Shunyata, though I'm a big fan of Caelin's products, with most recent Ethernet Sigma for Roon/EtherREGEN/Upsampler connections. I certainly will consider upgrading the stock power cords at some point.

Seems that cable length for this application rests on the quality of the cable. If it's not top-notch then the shorter the better. I'm inclined to stick with a meter or meter and a half run from the clock to dCS Clock and same for EtherREGEN, unless anyone thinks that's overkill.

From what I gather in reading this topic, the break-in period for the OP21a is similar to my experience with the EtherREGEN - took hundreds of hours to finally and fully settle into its happy space.

Appreciate any thoughts I should consider in making my decision of a clock, and cables, or anything else.

My experience with the OP21 reference clock has been that 24-48 hours brought most of the improvement after first plugging it in, and by the end of the first week of 24/7 power-on (which is how it should be left, that is, always on) I think it settled in as much as it was going to.

I know dCS has used Transparent cabling in-house for some time; more recently John Quick told me they were evaluating Shunyata Research’s clock and digital cables. Certainly, either would be an excellent choice. I personally went with Shunyata and the upgrade over a good but inexpensive clock cable was profound.

I think you’ll be very impressed by the Cybershaft clock if that is the direction you decide to go, Steve. I know I was figuratively holding my breath wondering if I had done the right thing adding a ‘reference clock‘ to my already excellent dCS Vivaldi Clock. After hearing the improvement I was and continue to be very happy I did.

Good luck!

Steve Z

 

[stevebythebay]

Please let me know your source (transport or other), which DCS DAC, etc....

Source is Roon Nucleus - Shunyata Sigma - EtherREGEN - Shunyata Sigma - dCS Vivaldi Upsampler - dCS Vivaldi DAC and of course the dCS Vivaldi Clock connected to the other dCS hardware. Other bits are in my signature.

 

[stevebythebay]

My experience with the OP21 reference clock was that 24-48 hours brought most of the improvement after first plugging it in, and by the end of the first week of 24/7 power-on (which is how it should be left, that is, always on) I think it settled in as much as it was going to.

I know dCS has used Transparent cabling in-house for some time; more recently John Quick told me they were evaluating Shunyata Research’s clock and digital cables. Certainly, either would be an excellent choice. I personally went with Shunyata and the upgrade over a good but inexpensive clock cable was profound.

I think you’ll be very impressed by the Cybershaft clock if that is the direction you decide to go, Steve. I know I was figuratively holding my breath wondering if I had done the right thing adding a ‘reference clock‘ to my already excellent dCS Vivaldi Clock. After hearing the improvement I was and continue to be very happy I did.

Good luck!

Steve Z

Thanks Steve. You've pretty much cemented my direction on this. Hopefully I'll get a handle on what bits need to be ordered from Cybershaft. Then it's just a matter of awaiting the clock and purchasing whatever things, be it clock cables and DC cable (if not from Cybershaft) and power cable.
Any thoughts on these last items would be helpful.

 

[SCAudiophile]

Source is Roon Nucleus - Shunyata Sigma - EtherREGEN - Shunyata Sigma - dCS Vivaldi Upsampler - dCS Vivaldi DAC and of course the dCS Vivaldi Clock connected to the other dCS hardware. Other bits are in my signature.

Since you have the Vivaldi clock and Etheregen which both take 10Mhz inputs, you have several options;

Model number: UPOCXO-OP21A Built-in AC power supply (see website for price), 3 outputs and you can use AC power now and
add external PSU in the future (or now but if now, the next option makes most. sense)

Model number: UPOCXO-OP21A-D External DC (see website for price), gives you 3 outputs and ability to use external PSU

If using external PSU now, order;

Model number: LTPW01P External DC power supply (with CA panel, i.e. silk-screened product name front panel),

You will want the DC cable and plug he supplies I think as that is how he states he tests.

Yes, 115V/120V if you are in the US, must specify country and voltage.

Spikes: see my earlier comments, if you have comparable or better product (I have Stillpoints), just leave stock feet...

If you want to save some money overall and still get the separate PSU, you may consider OP20A level which is damned close to OP21A.

Let me know if I can help in any way, IM me if further help, and intro to Cybershaft, etc...or help breaking down the order and details on
your config for them in Japan.

 

[oldmustang]

Thanks Steve. You've pretty much cemented my direction on this. Hopefully I'll get a handle on what bits need to be ordered from Cybershaft. Then it's just a matter of awaiting the clock and purchasing whatever things, be it clock cables and DC cable (if not from Cybershaft) and power cable.
Any thoughts on these last items would be helpful.

You are very welcome Steve. Mark (SCAudiophile)was my mentor for my Cybershaft purchase and his advice and recommendations are spot-on. My OP21 also has a built-in power supply so I can’t offer much advice about external power supplies other than to say that I’m comfortable with the idea that Kenji-san’s recommended power supply would certainly be a solid choice, along with his DC power cord, since he tests and furnishes the testing certificate with each unit sold so he has strong interest in providing the best performance possible with his clocks.

As you can see from my signature I am heavily invested in Shunyata power and signal products, so I use an Alpha NR power cord with my Cybershaft. In my particular situation I have no regrets about going with the internal power supply (really a moot point since at the time I bought my reference clock the external power supply would have been a custom option); I’m happy to avoid additional boxes and cables on my rather full equipment rack. On the other hand, extra clock outputs are no penalty if not immediately used — they are good to have if you think you might ever add other pieces of equipment that could benefit from a high-quality external 10 mHz clock signal.

Kenji-san understands english so you can ask him specific questions and he is very prompt about replying (we both used translation engines in our correspondence). I’m not sure what his current turnaround time is but he will tell you. The actual shipping time from Japan when my unit was ready was only two days (I’m on the west coast of the US).

Let me know if I can help with any other questions.

Steve Z

 

[SCAudiophile]

Thank you Steve for the kind words,...all in the pursuit of music and trying to help fellow audionuts!
+! on Kenji-san being great to work with; he definitely focuses on quality, proof of test results for each
unit he sells, etc....

 

[stevebythebay]

Since you have the Vivaldi clock and Etheregen which both take 10Mhz inputs, you have several options;

Model number: UPOCXO-OP21A Built-in AC power supply (see website for price), 3 outputs and you can use AC power now and
add external PSU in the future (or now but if now, the next option makes most. sense)

Model number: UPOCXO-OP21A-D External DC (see website for price), gives you 3 outputs and ability to use external PSU

If using external PSU now, order;

Model number: LTPW01P External DC power supply (with CA panel, i.e. silk-screened product name front panel),

You will want the DC cable and plug he supplies I think as that is how he states he tests.

Yes, 115V/120V if you are in the US, must specify country and voltage.

Spikes: see my earlier comments, if you have comparable or better product (I have Stillpoints), just leave stock feet...

If you want to save some money overall and still get the separate PSU, you may consider OP20A level which is damned close to OP21A.

Let me know if I can help in any way, IM me if further help, and intro to Cybershaft, etc...or help breaking down the order and details on
your config for them in Japan.

Thanks. I am having trouble understanding the output of the OP21A. From what I see from the images on the site, there are 4 outputs. Yet you're saying there are 3. What's that about? Is it that what I'm seeing is an option called the "clock distributor2 4output DC power model?

Based on your response, I gather it's not terribly important to opt for the unit with internal LPS if I intend to use an external one, which I assume is beneficial for reducing vibration within the clock. For this configuration, I assume I'd order the LPTW01 without the cast panel, right?

And what's this bit about a cast panel? I'm seeing but one main unit with the P appended, which seems to match a P unit for external LPS. Am I correct? I'm thinking not, since you indicate the LTPW01P should be ordered with the UPOCX-OP21A-D.

The only reference I find on any of the pages related to the external LPS says: "

• You can choose from two types of front panels, one with a design that matches OP21A/OP20A, and the other with a cast material panel that matches the design of OP21A-1/OP20A-1 and MA series."

Did they mean OP21A-D rather than -1

And I'm thinking that if I place these side by side using the Spike Insulator would be, at least, visually awkward. So, it seems not worth the trouble, unless you feel otherwise. I actually have a bunch of Synergistic Research MiG 2.0 feet which may or may not be viable. Don't even know why I'd want to use.

Would "IM" you, assume you mean "message" you. However, I do not have any contact info for you.

 

[stevebythebay]

You are very welcome Steve. Mark (SCAudiophile)was my mentor for my Cybershaft purchase and his advice and recommendations are spot-on. My OP21 also has a built-in power supply so I can’t offer much advice about external power supplies other than to say that I’m comfortable with the idea that Kenji-san’s recommended power supply would certainly be a solid choice, along with his DC power cord, since he tests and furnishes the testing certificate with each unit sold so he has strong interest in providing the best performance possible with his clocks.

As you can see from my signature I am heavily invested in Shunyata power and signal products, so I use an Alpha NR power cord with my Cybershaft. In my particular situation I have no regrets about going with the internal power supply (really a moot point since at the time I bought my reference clock the external power supply would have been a custom option); I’m happy to avoid additional boxes and cables on my rather full equipment rack. On the other hand, extra clock outputs are no penalty if not immediately used — they are good to have if you think you might ever add other pieces of equipment that could benefit from a high-quality external 10 mHz clock signal.

Kenji-san understands english so you can ask him specific questions and he is very prompt about replying (we both used translation engines in our correspondence). I’m not sure what his current turnaround time is but he will tell you. The actual shipping time from Japan when my unit was ready was only two days (I’m on the west coast of the US).

Let me know if I can help with any other questions.

Steve Z

Thanks. I'm not averse to using a separate LPS when it provides benefits. Currently using an Uptone JS-2 to power both my Roon Nucleus and EtherREGEN and that's been a nice means for lowering the system noise floor.

What is confusing to me is the number of actual outputs you get with the various OP21A models. Seems there's a base 3 output with option for 4 output. But I can't determine if that's true for either or both models of internal vs. external LPS. Can you help?

 

[SCAudiophile]

Thanks. I am having trouble understanding the output of the OP21A. From what I see from the images on the site, there are 4 outputs. Yet you're saying there are 3. What's that about? Is it that what I'm seeing is an option called the "clock distributor2 4output DC power model?

Based on your response, I gather it's not terribly important to opt for the unit with internal LPS if I intend to use an external one, which I assume is beneficial for reducing vibration within the clock. For this configuration, I assume I'd order the LPTW01 without the cast panel, right?

And what's this bit about a cast panel? I'm seeing but one main unit with the P appended, which seems to match a P unit for external LPS. Am I correct? I'm thinking not, since you indicate the LTPW01P should be ordered with the UPOCX-OP21A-D.

The only reference I find on any of the pages related to the external LPS says: "

• You can choose from two types of front panels, one with a design that matches OP21A/OP20A, and the other with a cast material panel that matches the design of OP21A-1/OP20A-1 and MA series."

Did they mean OP21A-D rather than -1

And I'm thinking that if I place these side by side using the Spike Insulator would be, at least, visually awkward. So, it seems not worth the trouble, unless you feel otherwise. I actually have a bunch of Synergistic Research MiG 2.0 feet which may or may not be viable. Don't even know why I'd want to use.

Would "IM" you, assume you mean "message" you. However, I do not have any contact info for you.

IM == sending a message using the Inbox here in the upper right hand part of the screen

3 outputs; I believe I made a mistake, my older OP21A has 3, I was thinking of that one at the time as well and typed 3 instead of 4. The new ones have 4 outputs.

If you are definitely going with an external power supply, you have no use for the version that allows either use of its internal power supply or an optional external power supply. You can. go straight for this model;

Model number: UPOCXO-OP21A-D External DC selling price ?715,000
*only uses the separate DC power supply
and you'll need this;
Model number: LTPW01P External DC power supply (with CA panel)
*the DC power supply
and the cable and plug he suggests on his (Cybershaft) website

I don't know if any other power supply will work (e.g. Uptone); you'll need to check and verify that with Cybershaft
so I've given you the Cybershaft power supply model.

The -1 is the 1 output series, don't think you want that as you need more than one output.

I gave you both (multi) output options in the earlier email as you were not at that point decided on the power supply route.
Now sounds like you only need to know the options I've just included above.

'cast panel': As I understand it (I don't work for Cybershaft so I'm reading the website and remembering prior comms on the question), the cast means a silk-screened front panel that matches the design of the clock (think labeling) so the cast panel is the default and advised.

I cannot comment on what would be visibly awkward or not to someone else; sorry but that's a personal decision.

"clock distributor2 4output DC power model?" is the separate clock distributor for someone who has a single output clock already
and wants to extend that to more than 1 output. Given you are looking at the 4-output version, you don't need that distributor.

Hope I cleared up any confusion on this,...as I said, drop me a message here and I'll respond further and try to help as best I can.

It's after 2330 here and my days starts extremely early with meetings in EU time zones so any other questions, I'll answer when I can tomorrow....

 

[Macattack]

Just don’t use a Yahoo.com email address as Hasegawa-San told me his ISP filters that domain. Gmail works fine.

 

[Jpspock]

One interesting thing is that now you can switch between 50 and 75 ohm. As my scarlatti is 75 no need anymore to use an adaptator. Sonically it si better with 75. So you have more choice for cable ...

 

[SCAudiophile]

It's better sonically with 75ohm setting on Cybershaft and a spec-matching 75 ohm cable as using a mismatched clock signal
input and/or cable of 75 when 50 is expected and vice versa has some sonic side effects. Both myself and several others have
written extensively in the past on some blind testing over a multi-month period that was done but suffice it to say the best thing
to do is match spec up and down the line. Luckily the later generation of Cybershaft clocks now allows for this via specific design
and a patented distribution board assembly. so no more 50->75ohm converter tees and terminators, etc....

Email address for Kenji at Cybershaft: correct that Yahoo email addresses were failing there for a while (I use Yahoo as well as Gmail).
The problem was with the email/web content provider for the cybershaft.jp domain. Kenji is now using a new email address for some
months now and it is;

cybershaft777@yahoo.co.jp

It receives Yahoo email (obviously), Gmail and all other domains perfectly well now.

I believe the web form is now routing correctly; haven't tried in a while but this new email works 100%.

Hope this helps,...