Ultrasonic Cavitation & Cleaning Explained

Btw.: Talked yesterday with Elma, who gave me contact to a dealer:
He has an US bath not cheap, but not at price range of blackstone...


Power is 400 W.
 
So despite you should us protection for the labels, you don't go deeper as a tangent line of the label. Understood. But I took a normal 12'' record and measuring the width at this tangent is 28,5 cm. That means I have only ,8 cm to the edge of the record on both sides and to take care. Correct?

If you use the Kuzma RD you don't need to worry about label protection.

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I just wonder, how the Degritter could be offered to a that lower price!
There are relatively inexpensive 120-kHz transducers readily available from China. Otherwise, there is a big difference between a consumer product and an industrial product. For the Degritter which is a very compact unit with on-board power supply, from readers reports the average mean time between failure (MTBF) is about 4500-records cleaned which at a total cleaning/dry cycle of average 20-min (0.33-hrs) = a MTBF of (4500-record)(0.33-hrs/record) = rounding up 1,500-hrs. In the industrial world, the MTBF is measured in 10,000's of hours.
That means I have only ,8 cm to the edge of the record on both sides and to take care. Correct?
When you clean with UT, you clean only to the run-out groove to avoid wetting the label which would measure about 11-inch/280-mm, which would leave 10-mm on either side and that is enough clearance as is 8-mm, noting that this clearance is at the very edge - see @tima setup https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/timas-diy-rcm.26013/post-902552.
As I read your whole thread, which is great, I understood the ratio between needed power and removal efficiency. But if I would be O.K. using much more power, would the cleaning effect not be better? (I am just curious why the Degritter by decision uses 120 kHz and why the only professional record cleaning service PVF uses additionally 125 kHz and 220 kHz.) My stylus cut is sharp and I suppose the mid and deep area of the groove could have a benefit. Feel free to tell me if I am wrong. It is just my idea to start cleaning/rinsing with 37 and 80 kHz and as next steps going higher.
First, as the figure in my first post shows, each range of kHz targets some soils better than others. The Degritter with 120-kHz does not clean fingerprints very well without use of some chemistry to assist. If you are cleaning a dirty used record, you need to do some form of pre-clean before final cleaning with a high (>60-kHz) frequency UT tank. Also, bear in mind that as the kHz increases, the noise decreases. But consider that the KLAudio only uses 40-kHz but its 200-watts into only about 0.7-L, while the Degritter is 120-kHz and 300-watts into 1.4-L. The KLAudio will produce much greater cavitation intensity and what it lacks in cavitation bubble size, it makes up with brute power enough that if the record was to spin too slowly, it could be damaged. On thing to consider when cleaning a record is that there are no inaccessible areas - there are no blind holes, cross-drilled passages, etc. From a precision cleaning perspective, cleaning a record is easy.

But the existential question is how clean does the record need to be and can you achieve that in a normal residential environment? Chapters XI and XII make an attempt to answer those questions. The record surface roughness is reported at about 0.01-micron, and the smallest recorded modulation is 0.1-micron (and these are not common). Cleaning below these levels achieves nothing, it's below the threshold of audible impact and this assumes you have the environment that can support achieving the sub-micron cleanliness levels.

First, the best reasonable readily available UT bath filtration system you can install is about 0.2-micron absolute (the book Chapter XIV goes into detail on filtration systems). Attempting to filter below this level will incur considerable cost if you as a consumer can buy it. But it you are cleaning to less than 0.1 micron, if the bath water is not similarly clean - what's the use?

Second, for records, the 800-lb gorilla is after you cleaned the record, how do you dry it and keep it clean without you, the record sleeve and the ambient air environment re-contaminating it. The most basic Fed-Std-209, Class 100,000 cleanroom has a requirement of 100,000 particles >0.5 microns/ft³ of air, and 700 particles >5 microns/ft³. You can achieve a reasonably clean area in your home, and locating a HEPA filter in the area can help. But, between you which from a cleanroom standard at your cleanest is still dirty and your ambient air, your environment does not come close to even the most basic Class 100,000 cleanroom. Of course, you can dry the records in a HEPA filtered oven - they are readily available. But, then after all this cleaning, you slip that record into a record sleeve that is nowhere near as clean, and then you place the record on the platter that is nowhere near as clean. And let's not even talk about the ubiquitous carbon-fiber brush.

So, from my pragmatic engineering and technical perspective, for record cleaning I see no realistic cleaning benefit from more than 80-kHz. So why use a very high kHz UT machines for final clean? First, they are quieter, and second there is always the marketing aspect to set yourself apart from the commonly used 35-40-kHz.

However, after all is said and done, my philosophy when it comes to everything audio is that What's Best is What's Best for You! Otherwise, when I assist someone with their cleaning process, it's getting the bests results for what's best for you be it a strictly manual cleaning process as I address in the book where we can use chemistry you would not use elsewhere (but the results are subject to your technique and do not support high throughput) or maybe it's strictly vacuum-RCM which is really a machine assisted manual cleaning process (discussed Chapter XIII) or maybe its UT with the many variations it offers or maybe it's a combination of vacuum-RCM pre-clean and final clean-UT.

Take care & good luck,
Neil
 
Btw.: Talked yesterday with Elma, who gave me contact to a dealer:
He has an US bath not cheap, but not at price range of blackstone...


Power is 400 W.
Power is not 400W - that's heater power. UT power is 120W, and max 240W. This is not a powerful unit, and its mostly Chinese parts packaged, and for what is being offered is very expensive - CleanerVinyl: Ultrasonic Vinyl Record Cleaning Systems.
 
First, as the figure in my first post shows, each range of kHz targets some soils better than others. The Degritter with 120-kHz does not clean fingerprints very well without use of some chemistry to assist. If you are cleaning a dirty used record, you need to do some form of pre-clean before final cleaning with a high (>60-kHz) frequency UT tank. Also, bear in mind that as the kHz increases, the noise decreases. But consider that the KLAudio only uses 40-kHz but its 200-watts into only about 0.7-L, while the Degritter is 120-kHz and 300-watts into 1.4-L. The KLAudio will produce much greater cavitation intensity and what it lacks in cavitation bubble size, it makes up with brute power enough that if the record was to spin too slowly, it could be damaged. On thing to consider when cleaning a record is that there are no inaccessible areas - there are no blind holes, cross-drilled passages, etc. From a precision cleaning perspective, cleaning a record is easy.
I feel the system of tima is a good idea with 5 records using the Elmasonic P 120 H. But here the volume is much bigger with 12,75 L to Degritter and KL Audio. Data Sheets says 300 W regular, max 1.320 W, power sufficient?
 
Dear Tim,

your photos and link are helping a lot, the Kuzma unit is exactly what I was looking for.. So you never had problem with water on the labels, no need of protectors, correct? Also no new dust during the drying?
Even when my labels get wet, it never seems to stain them or leave a lasting impression. And if it did mark it a little, I am more concerned about having a clean record. My collection will be for sale when I am no longer around.
 
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But here the volume is much bigger with 12,75 L to Degritter and KL Audio. Data Sheets says 300 W regular, max 1.320 W, power sufficient?
Recall what I wrote in the first post of this thread: "The smaller the tank volume, the more power that is required. It has to do with the ratio of the tank volume to its interior surface area." So, the larger tank requires less watts/volume. Make no mistake, the Elmasonic P120H is a powerful unit, and this is evident in how quickly the UT heats the tank (regardless of the heater). For people such as @dminches who wanted a high throughput, a cooling radiator was installed with the pump/filter to cool the tank.

Also, the Elmasonic UT tanks position the transducer to fire vertically where the KLAudio and Degritter fire the transducers horizontally directly at the record. These two designs have different parameters recalling what I wrote in this post - Ultrasonic Cavitation & Cleaning Explained | What's Best Audio and Video Forum. The Best High End Audio Forum on the planet! (whatsbestforum.com) and particularly the concept of standing waves and how a vertical design allows the record to spin through the standing waves.

However, not all UT tank ratings are accurate. Without boring you with all the details, I can show you three different power ratings for the same model (Chinese) UT transducer with one showing 35W, another 50W and another 60W. How well the transducers are assembled to the tank, how stiff the tank, and good the power supply all determines how much power actually gets into the tank.
 
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Dear Tim,

your photos and link are helping a lot, the Kuzma unit is exactly what I was looking for.. So you never had problem with water on the labels, no need of protectors, correct? Also no new dust during the drying?

Hi, yes I have no problems with wet labels. A practical concern is how much water to put in the tank when using the Kuzma RD. Over time you gain a sense of that but at first better to under-fill then top up with records in place. Covers, imo, are unreliable and can leak.

Drying can take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour depending on room temperature and humidity. I have used a slow rpm fan which helps air circulate. I also have a small HEPA filter that I will use starting an hour or so before a cleaning session. Dust is everywhere but it has not really been a problem. With the records drying at a 45-degree angle (above picture) I may see a speck or two on the top most record. But that is not embedded dirt in the groove, and easily removed with air or a brush.
 
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Two excellent posts, Neil, nice job.
Tim,

Appreciate the acknowledgement, thank-you, and thanks for posting the pictures of your setup - as they say, a picture is worth a 1000 words.

Take care,
Neil
 
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I added additional notes to my post #211 above. I put them in my DIY thread because they are very specific to my Elmasonic/Kuzma RD setup as relates to tank water height which ties to a question about getting water on record labels and label protectors. No need to read the follow-up unless you use or have interest in an Elmasonic / Kuzma RD system.

The link should take you to that specific post.

 
FYI to All:

An update to the book has just been published - 3rd Edition-Change 1 is now available Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records-3rd Edition - The Vinyl Press. As addressed at the bottom of the page: This third, definitive edition of Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records with change 1 corrects a few errors, updates equipment sourcing; updates the various cleaning processes based on lessons learned and adds some new items that users may find of interest (see the last page – Record of Changes) all for the purpose of continuing its place as an enduring part of the literature of record cleaning.

The last page - Record of Changes lists all the changes. The changes were not of sufficient content to warrant advancing the book to the 4th ed. Clicking on the paragraph # or Table # links to the applicable change. If you open the document with Adobe, pressing Alt-left arrow you will return to the Record of Changes, otherwise, you can use the drop-down table of contents to get back to the Record of Changes. This return trick using Alt-left arrow does not work if the document opens with the MSEdge browser.

A big shout out and thanks to @Bill Hart who continues to provide his services as Editor and Publisher and making the document available to all for free.

Enjoy, take care and stay well,

Neil

PS/As a general note, any external link to the book such as from the Roy Gregory article The Vinyl Cleaning Bible? - Gy8 or from Alconox How To Clean Vinyl Records - TechNotes – Critical Cleaning Advice from Alconox Inc. links to the latest version.
 
FYI to All:

An update to the book has just been published - 3rd Edition-Change 1 is now available Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records-3rd Edition - The Vinyl Press. As addressed at the bottom of the page: This third, definitive edition of Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records with change 1 corrects a few errors, updates equipment sourcing; updates the various cleaning processes based on lessons learned and adds some new items that users may find of interest (see the last page – Record of Changes) all for the purpose of continuing its place as an enduring part of the literature of record cleaning.

The last page - Record of Changes lists all the changes. The changes were not of sufficient content to warrant advancing the book to the 4th ed. Clicking on the paragraph # or Table # links to the applicable change. If you open the document with Adobe, pressing Alt-left arrow you will return to the Record of Changes, otherwise, you can use the drop-down table of contents to get back to the Record of Changes. This return trick using Alt-left arrow does not work if the document opens with the MSEdge browser.

A big shout out and thanks to @Bill Hart who continues to provide his services as Editor and Publisher and making the document available to all for free.

Enjoy, take care and stay well,

Neil

PS/As a general note, any external link to the book such as from the Roy Gregory article The Vinyl Cleaning Bible? - Gy8 or from Alconox How To Clean Vinyl Records - TechNotes – Critical Cleaning Advice from Alconox Inc. links to the latest version.
Big very big thanks Neil!
You are very, very much appreciated.
 
@Neil.Antin, if I have dirty records that need a pre-clean on my vacuum RCM before going into the USM, can I do the Liquinox mix, vacuum it off, and then drop it right into the USM, or do I still need to do the water rinse before putting it into the ultrasonic?
 
@Neil.Antin, if I have dirty records that need a pre-clean on my vacuum RCM before going into the USM, can I do the Liquinox mix, vacuum it off, and then drop it right into the USM, or do I still need to do the water rinse before putting it into the ultrasonic?
Tony,

Long story short, you want to rinse after the Liquinox or you will carry it over to your ultrasonic tank and it will increase the TDS measurement and lead to foaming.

Take care,
Neil

PS/Read the book version 3.1, XIII.5 Importance of Rinsing.
 

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