Any way to fix a record label? Somehow, on one of my batches, a record label protector on one side of one record was not fully seated. About a 30 degree portion of the label on that side appears to have been exposed to liquid during the process. The tank level was just touching the bottom of the protectors. Not smart, I guess, but some records have grooves going right up to the line, so I try to get the whole thing clean. Anyway, there’s some bubbling in that wedge of the label. Hoping there’s a way to fix it.
Ultrasonic Cavitation & Cleaning Explained
- Thread starter Neil.Antin
- Start date
I might have tried smoothing out the label while it was still wet, but I'm unclear about the effect. Perhaps consult a paper archivist or someone dealing in rare books?
The Kuzma RD does not use label protectors. There the key is to keep the water level below the label, just touching the runout area. Can you see the label cover when you put records in the tank to see where the water line is?
I ran my big test today. I have two identical (JW-1 0) pressings of RLJ’s self titled album. I cleaned one on my HW-16.5 with Neil’s recommended Liquinox solution, and the other on my UCM at 40/80/120 KHz in a 10/10/4 minute cycle (24 minutes total) using Neil’s recommended single bath UCM mixture. After letting each one dry thoroughly I played them one after the other on my VPI Avenger Direct running my SS Sussurro MkII cart. The premise was to see if “using a UCM will destroy your records“. The bath temp on the UCM reaches only 34C at the end of its run. Apart from the HW16.5 cleaned record having slightly more surface noise, I could tell no sonic or spatial differences between the two. I guess the only thing I could say is in this experiment the UCM cleaned record was quieter. If that matters to anyone.
Tony:
For the record, what I recommend for vacuum-RCM is:
1. Pre-clean with Liquinox at 0.5% concentration.
2. Rinse with DIW
3. Final Clean Tergitol 15-S-9 at 0.05% concentration
4. Final rinse with DIW
5. Vacuum-dry.
The risk with vacuum-RCM is that the cleaning process is based on the chemistry, the brush and the user technique. The benefit of UT is that the user is removed from the process.
Take care,
Neil
PS - watch-out for those rice paper lined HDPE record sleeves. I recently noticed a new record had some odd very light surface scratches. When I felt the inside of the sleeve, there were two very small - let's call then pebbles - that were between the HDPE and the rice-paper. I am currently calling it quits with the rice paper/HDPE sleeves - they are all manufactured from China, and I am seeing too wide a variability in quality that also affects the record cleanliness - there is shedding. I am now trying the Japanese made Amazon.com: NAGAOKA Anti-Static LP Inner Sleeves 50 Sheets RS-LP2 : Home & Kitchen. They are not as convenient, but I am hoping the quality is better.
These are the best I've found and use with 90% of my records:
Diskeeper™ Audiophile Inner Sleeves (50 Pack)
Our take on Discwasher's classic VRP "rice paper" sleeves is heavier and stronger than any of the competition for less money than other laminated sleeves. Two layers of anti-static HDPE are wrapped around an inner paper core to combine the best qualities of paper and poly sleeves. Our extra...
sleevecityusa.com
For the outer sleeve I use:
Ultimate Outer 5.0 (50 Pack)
BACK-ORDERED UNTIL DEC. Our high-end 5-mil outer sleeve is the strongest, toughest outer sleeve you can buy. This super-thick virgin polypropylene sleeve resists scratches, punctures, tears, splits, water, and abrasions without the expense and brittleness of Mylar, and is a favorite of...
sleevecityusa.com
I put the original inner sleeve in the record cover. The outer sleeve goes over the record with its opening facing up. The record goes in the new inner sleeve which is then placed between the outer sleeve and the record cover with the opening of the inner sleeve toward the sealed side of the outer sleeve. Super simple to extract the record with its inner sleeve and return.
Yes, I understand, Neil. But I’ve been using a mix of your techniques as I preferred to do a one-step for both the vacuum RCM and the UCM. So I’m using the no-rinse formulas you specified in PACVR, for each. I know it’s not the ideal approach, but as I have both machines it’s handy. Since most of my records are new or had been reasonably well cared for, I’m using the no-rinse UCM as my process.
As to the test, it was meant not to see which machine and method would get things cleaner, but only look at this UCM “damage” claim that pops up every so often. I’m satisfied with the results that to my ears I could detect no damage.
Tony,
What concentration did you use the Liquinox? I have never specified any no-rinse formula for Liquinox. The Liquinox at 0.05% that I recommend for vacuum-RCM is not a no-rinse formula. You should never use Liquinox without a rinse. Liquinox dried residue will have the consistency of bar soap. However, if you used Liquinox at less 0.02% its essentially useless as a cleaner and you get only wetting. The chemistry of Liquinox is a blend of anionic and nonionic surfactants and is entirely different then the simple 1-nonionic surfactant Tergitol 15-S-9.
Otherwise, the test you did is really only specific to your UT machine since cavitation intensity is proportional to power (up to point, and your machine is not near the limit) and inversely proportional to kHz; with tank volume another variable.
Take care,
Neil
Tim:These are the best I've found and use with 90% of my records:
Diskeeper™ Audiophile Inner Sleeves (50 Pack)
Our take on Discwasher's classic VRP "rice paper" sleeves is heavier and stronger than any of the competition for less money than other laminated sleeves. Two layers of anti-static HDPE are wrapped around an inner paper core to combine the best qualities of paper and poly sleeves. Our extra...
For the outer sleeve I use:
Ultimate Outer 5.0 (50 Pack)
BACK-ORDERED UNTIL DEC. Our high-end 5-mil outer sleeve is the strongest, toughest outer sleeve you can buy. This super-thick virgin polypropylene sleeve resists scratches, punctures, tears, splits, water, and abrasions without the expense and brittleness of Mylar, and is a favorite of...
I put the original inner sleeve in the record cover. The outer sleeve goes over the record with its opening facing up. The record goes in the new inner sleeve which is then placed between the outer sleeve and the record cover with the opening of the inner sleeve toward the sealed side of the outer sleeve. Super simple to extract the record with its inner sleeve and return.
The sleeve manufacturer with the defect was the one you use. Otherwise, for outer sleeves, I use those from Vinyl Storage Solutions Sleeves that are made in Canada. However, like all the rest, their inner rice-paper/HDPE sleeves are made in China, and I have also had variability in quality, and I gave up on MoFi years ago. So, I am going to give Japan a shot. The NAGAOKA Inner Sleeves are very thin, and you need to take your time inserting the record into the jacket to keep the lower edge from crumpling. But it's a very simple design which tends to make getting consistent quality easier. To me the slight inconvenience is insignificant. We will see.
Take care,
Neil
I also got rid of all those. Not only is it a tight fit which is prone to scratching but I noticed a white residue that was left on records that hadn’t been removed from the sleeves in a couple years. Others have reported the same thing. The light and loose fitting Japanese style ones are great.
Uh-oh.
Yes, I just reread that section of PACVR - and the PM you sent me! Funny, I was doing the DIW rinse after the vacuum RCM with Liquinox, but for some reason forgot I needed to do that. Fortunately it was only a few records that I'll re-do via UCM. The question is - did I mess up my cart by playing a record like this without the DIW rinse?I've been trying these sleeves.
Amazon.com: Vinyl Record Inner Sleeves 100 Pack for 12" Lp, 3-Ply Anti Static Soft Inner Sleeve with Archival Paper Enclosed for 33 RPM LP Protection (12" 100P) : Electronics
Seem pretty good so far.
Amazon.com: Vinyl Record Inner Sleeves 100 Pack for 12" Lp, 3-Ply Anti Static Soft Inner Sleeve with Archival Paper Enclosed for 33 RPM LP Protection (12" 100P) : Electronics
Seem pretty good so far.
No, you did not mess-up your cartridge - just give the stylus a look and if you see any gunk, give it a good cleaning.Uh-oh.
No - you probably did not fry your records. The 8-min is one thing, but the temperature would have been very low, and your tank is not that powerful and the upward firing transducers helps. If the record surfaces show a nice shinny surface - risk of damage is very low. But you will not know for sure until you play the records - if they play back with lots of static like noise in that 1/3 area - it will be a repeating noise - you ate them.How do I keep doing this stuff?
Well, each record has its own amount of static. But none of them have what seems like any "off kilter" more here, less there kind of static as the record spins.
How long do you think it would otherwise have to take for such damage to occur?
Who is the manufacturer?
Not sure of your reference to Mobile Fidelity. The ones I use are not from them.
The Nagaoka sleeves are so thin, they are difficult to use and offer less protection to the record. The increase in handling liability is too high for me. YMMV
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