Ultrasonic Cavitation & Cleaning Explained

@Packgrog ,

I've been using a variation of your cleaning solution recipes, dumbed down for me by another chemist in the community. I've been using a 10ml Liquinox per Liter distilled water dilution for my pre-cleaner, and 25ml/L Ilfotol for main cleaner, in rinsed out old AIVS dispenser bottles. Using Listener Select brushes and an older Okki Nokki, I've had largely good results with this, doing a 1 minute agitation of the Liquinox dilution, vacuum the brush and fluid, rinse agitation with lab grade water for about 30 seconds, then 1 minute agitation with Ilfotol dilution with a second brush, then rinse and agitate with that second brush. Do those proportions sound correct to you?

Response: The Liquinox is double what I recommend in the book Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records-3rd Edition - The Vinyl Press Chapter XIII which is 5-ml/L. But, if you are not having any problems, then the higher concentration is fine and the Ilfotol which is diluted to ~5%, the 25ml/L is fine.

Of late, I've been getting frustrated that this isn't enough, thus my stumbling across this thread in my unrelenting lust for the Degritter. I'm still torn between crippling perfectionism and being discouraged by all the manual labor. Reading through this thread confirms my fear from other positive reviews and the opinion of that other chemist: The Degritter would be a useful ADDITIONAL tool, but wouldn't shorten the process, as nothing replaces the chemicals doing their job. That makes the expense near impossible for me to justify.

I do have an older DIY ultrasonic setup that I've tried experimenting with recently, but my experiments have been... mixed. My setup is a Sonix IV 60kHz ultrasonic machine, and a DIY motor setup with an extremely slow rotation (5 rotations per hour). During one attempt to use a tiny amount of Ilfotol in the tank to maybe help with reduce my need for scrubbing, I think some of the solution dried onto the grooves of one album, as the first half of each side now has a persistent high noise floor compared to previously. I'd let it run through this for 4 full rotations, so roughly an hour in the tank. I tried another manual scrubbing pass as detailed above to try to remove that noise, but that didn't seem to help. Can dried-on Ilfotol be removed somehow? Or is it more likely that using that made my ultrasonic tank cause actual damage to the record? I'd been under the impression that 60kHz was far more safe for vinyl than the normal 40kHz.

Response: Long story short, you probably damaged the record. 5-revoultions/hour is = 5/60 = 0.083 rpm which is way too slow. As addressed in the book Chapter XIV, 0.5-rpm for DIY tanks is the target. You exposed the record at very low-rpm for 48-min, and yes 60-kHz is technically safer than 40-kHz but at the slow revolution you were using all bets are off. What is ultrasonic power rating of the tank? Were you monitoring the temperature? If so, how hot did the bath get? As far as the Ilfotol, as I said above, as delivered its diluted 20:1 down to 5% (and maybe less). To get any benefit as a wetting solution from it you need to get an effective concentration of ~0.0040%. If your tank is 6L, you would need to [(.00004)x(6000-ml)]/0.05 = ~5-ml. FYI, since Ilfotol is such a low concentration and they have changed the formulation down to 2.5%, I no longer make any recommendation of Ilfotol. The go to is Tergitol 15-S-9 Tergitol 15-S-3 and 15-S-9 Surfactant | TALAS (talasonline.com).

I've also tried using the AIVS Enzymatic Solution for Ultrasonic Cleaners, and at times it seems to be OK, at the very least helping reduce any static from all the vacuum passes. I'm just not sure if it's helping anything or not. I've ordered a faster rotisserie for further experiments, and in the hope of avoiding letting anything dry into the grooves.

I noticed you mentioned using the Down With Dirty enzymatic solution between the Liquinox pre-clean and Tergitol/Ilfotol final clean. Would the AIVS No 15 do as good a job there instead when fingerprints seem to not go away? Is there any real benefit in multiple passes of the Liquinox-then-Ilfotol process (rinsing in between and after each)? How the hell can I shorten this slog and reliably improve effective cleaning? Is there even any benefit to trying to use my ultrasonic as part of this whole process?

Response: The benefit of an enzyme cleaner after Liquinox is limited. The Liquinox is very effective against the same contamination that an enzyme would clean. In manual sink cleaning if you read the book, the latest is using an acid after the Liquinox. But the book says not to use acid with vacuum-RCM because you risk damaging the machine, and ultrasonics are supposed to do with power what the acid does with chemistry.

Hope this is of some help,

Neil
 
  • Like
Reactions: tima and Packgrog
I appreciate the response, Neil, and apologize for posting in the wrong thread. My interest was still partially one of "could a Degritter help salvage some of this", since I've seen both MKI and MKII units on discount, though that seems unlikely.

Yeah, my DIY ultrasonic rotisserie is a hold over from the diyaudio thread several years back. My Ilfotol amount was only 5ml in the 6 Liter tank, I believe. The reason I've wondered if the problem was dried on Ilfotol is that I've cleaned other records for just as long and not noticed the same amount of noise. The heat definitely shouldn't have been a problem, as it was barely warm to the touch. I guess just the extended cavitation caused the problem. Ah well, another album on the "ruined by trying too hard to clean" pile.

I have an Amazon Special rotation device on the way that has speeds of 2-4rpm, which I guess is also not ideal, but some reviews indicate being able to slow it down. Or maybe I just give up on ultrasonic again.

I'm about out of my Liquinox dilution, so I'll switch to 5ml/L. I also guess I should ditch my batch of Ilfotol entirely, as it seems my bottle of the concentrate may be from 2019, if the one lookup I found is correct, and thus may be useless. The direct link for the Tergitol 15-S-9 is appreciated, as I hadn't been able to find anything like that previously. A pity also that it only comes in such large amounts, has to be diluted quite so much, and has such a short shelf life. That was the original draw of the smaller containers of TergiKleen, even as I understand it doesn't rinse off well enough. I guess I should ditch my old Liquinox as well, as that's about as old as the Ilfotol, which is far beyond the listed 2 year shelf life. Blah. Perhaps that's why my results have been more underwhelming of late.

Much to consider, given how infrequently I'm able to clean records. Again, I appreciate the feedback.
 
The heat definitely shouldn't have been a problem, as it was barely warm to the touch. I guess just the extended cavitation caused the problem.

If after 48-min, the tank was just barely warm, then either it's a very low powered tank or the UT transducers are not all working or barely working. Try doing an aluminum foil test -
to verify that you are getting cavitation. However, just know that the aluminum foil only shows that there is cavitation but not cavitation intensity. When you are cleaning records - how close is the record to the bottom of the tank?

I have an Amazon Special rotation device on the way that has speeds of 2-4rpm, which I guess is also not ideal, but some reviews indicate being able to slow it down.
Most of these are 12VDC motors so they are easy to slow down - Amazon.com: SHNITPWR 30W Universal Power Supply 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Adjustable Variable AC/DC Adapter with 5V 2.1A USB Port, 100V-240V AC to DC 3V~12V Converter 0.5A 1A 1.2A 1.5A 2A 2.5A Max with 14 Tips : Electronics.
The direct link for the Tergitol 15-S-9 is appreciated, as I hadn't been able to find anything like that previously. A pity also that it only comes in such large amounts, has to be diluted quite so much, and has such a short shelf life. That was the original draw of the smaller containers of TergiKleen, even as I understand it doesn't rinse off well enough. I guess I should ditch my old Liquinox as well, as that's about as old as the Ilfotol, which is far beyond the listed 2 year shelf life. Blah. Perhaps that's why my results have been more underwhelming of late.

Take the shelf-life specified for the Liquinox and Tergitol 15-S-9 as merely corporate CYA. My supplies are over 4years old and are fine, as the book says: Note that most manufacturers will generally indicate that chemicals are good for about two (2) years shelf-life. There are too many variables for them to commit to durations any longer. But, properly stored, they can last much longer. Keep closed when not in use and stored in a cool-dark location, and they will last many years. The Tergitol 15-S-9 should last upwards of 10-yrs. Provided the chemical is clear with no floaties (turbidity) and no objectionable odor, they are good to continue to use. And, yes, the Tergikleen does not rinse as easily noting that it very different from just Tergitol 15-S-9 that rinses very easily. Not as sure for shelf life for Ilfotol since it is very diluted, but it does have a biocide added for shelf-life.

One other item, when cleaning with Liquinox, if your brush action is not producing foam in the brush, you are not agitating, working the brush back & forth fast enough. You do not need to bear down on the brush as much as you need to move back & forth quickly for the fluid agitation and chemistry to really work.

Take care,
Neil
 
  • Like
Reactions: tima
If after 48-min, the tank was just barely warm, then either it's a very low powered tank or the UT transducers are not all working or barely working. Try doing an aluminum foil test -
to verify that you are getting cavitation.
Definitely getting cavitation. I'm a bit startled to see that it punched through the foil, though. That was after maybe a minute or two. Photos on this post, since I can't seem to embed the photos here. Should I stop using this, or just make sure that the speed of rotation is roughly 1RPM?
However, just know that the aluminum foil only shows that there is cavitation but not cavitation intensity. When you are cleaning records - how close is the record to the bottom of the tank?
It's a standard 6 liter tank, I fill up to the max level groove, and the fluid covers most of the run-out groove but is well away from the label. So maybe an inch from the bottom? Half inch? Dunno, but pretty standard. [EDIT: I see in the book now the real reason for the question. It'd need to have been more than an inch from the bottom to avoid damage with that slow speed. Got it. Just measured, and it looks to be about 1.25" from the tank bottom at the lowest point. In practice with this too-slow motor, it was always 2 records at a time, spaced nearly 2" apart, and at least 1.75" from the tank walls.] [EDIT 2: Looking at the formula in XIV.6.3.e, I can absolutely NOT run my pump at all while running the USM, as it pushes more liters per minute than the size of my tank (8 LPM and a 6L tank). Nice to know this stuff with more certainty! I've rarely run the pump, and only when not running the tank.]
Thanks for that! I saw one review mentioning getting the speed of the rotisserie that just arrived down to about 1RPM with a 6V adapter, so that should be good. [EDIT: By these calculations from XIV.6.3.e, I guess 3RPM is appropriate for 1 record at a time, and 1.5RPM for 2 records with my tank. Good to know. I could probably run this Amazon motor with the 12V PSU if I stick with just one record. I'll test the actual rotation this evening.] [EDIT 2: 2RPM at 12V confirmed]
Take the shelf-life specified for the Liquinox and Tergitol 15-S-9 as merely corporate CYA. My supplies are over 4years old and are fine, as the book says: Note that most manufacturers will generally indicate that chemicals are good for about two (2) years shelf-life. There are too many variables for them to commit to durations any longer. But, properly stored, they can last much longer. Keep closed when not in use and stored in a cool-dark location, and they will last many years. The Tergitol 15-S-9 should last upwards of 10-yrs. Provided the chemical is clear with no floaties (turbidity) and no objectionable odor, they are good to continue to use.
Definitely in a dark cabinet in a closed container under my cleaning station. Both fluids still foam quite a lot during agitation (the Liquinox quite a bit more than the Ilfotol), so I'll run with these for now, and watch out for "floaters". Hah.

Cheers again for the feedback!
 
Last edited:
Definitely getting cavitation. I'm a bit startled to see that it punched through the foil, though. That was after maybe a minute or two. Photos on this post, since I can't seem to embed the photos here. Should I stop using this, or just make sure that the speed of rotation is roughly 1RPM?
The photos show that the aluminum foil is dimpled, but not much more. After 2-min, a powerful tank would have probably produced more holes, acknowledging the 60-kHz frequency and also knowing that as the kHz increases, you need more power - see the very 1st post in this thread.

However, I see that you are filtering the tank. Are you filtering while running the ultrasonics? Do you know the flow rate of the pump? Too much flow in the tank can significantly reduce cavitation intensity. If you can tell me the flow rate, I can tell you if you if it's OK to run the filter while the UT is operating or only run when it's not. The details are in the book Chapter XIV.

WRT to the Ilfotol, use with UT is a problem since we do not know the exact concentration and when it comes to UT, the devil is in the details. If you want the best you can get, you have to nail the details. This is why for UT, I will always recommend cleaning products that we know the concentration so we can nail the details. And, for UT cleaning w/o rinsing Tergitol 15-S-9 at about 0.005% is a good concentration along with about 2.5% isopropyl alcohol (IPA). But know that the IPA will evaporate from the water faster than the water evaporates. If you are using a UT tank bath for more than 1-week, and the tank is uncovered you will need to top-off the IPA.

Let me emphasize, if you want the best you can get from DIY UT, you really cannot just wing-it, the devil is in the details. If you are not willing to 'sweat' the details, you will not get the best you can. However, if the vacuum-RCM process is good, and yours's sounds likes it's very good, and you continue using it for pre-cleaning, the benefits of UT will only be incremental and only for some records.

Good Luck,
 
The photos show that the aluminum foil is dimpled, but not much more. After 2-min, a powerful tank would have probably produced more holes, acknowledging the 60-kHz frequency and also knowing that as the kHz increases, you need more power - see the very 1st post in this thread.
It never did produce holes until this latest run. I assumed it never would with frequencies higher than 40kHz. At least until I saw similar tests with the Degritter.
However, I see that you are filtering the tank. Are you filtering while running the ultrasonics? Do you know the flow rate of the pump? Too much flow in the tank can significantly reduce cavitation intensity. If you can tell me the flow rate, I can tell you if you if it's OK to run the filter while the UT is operating or only run when it's not. The details are in the book Chapter XIV.
Flow rate of the filter pump is 8Lpm. I have NEVER run it while cleaning, only on rare enough instances that something visible was floating in the bath. In this case tiny bits of aluminum foil.
WRT to the Ilfotol, use with UT is a problem since we do not know the exact concentration and when it comes to UT, the devil is in the details. If you want the best you can get, you have to nail the details. This is why for UT, I will always recommend cleaning products that we know the concentration so we can nail the details. And, for UT cleaning w/o rinsing Tergitol 15-S-9 at about 0.005% is a good concentration along with about 2.5% isopropyl alcohol (IPA). But know that the IPA will evaporate from the water faster than the water evaporates. If you are using a UT tank bath for more than 1-week, and the tank is uncovered you will need to top-off the IPA.
Yeah, I won't bother trying to use Ilfotol in the tank again. If anything, I'll use the AIVS Enzymatic in the tank, followed by a rinse/vac on the Okki Nokki. Even if AIVS claims their formula leaves nothing behind, I'm too OCD to not do a final rinse pass.
Let me emphasize, if you want the best you can get from DIY UT, you really cannot just wing-it, the devil is in the details. If you are not willing to 'sweat' the details, you will not get the best you can. However, if the vacuum-RCM process is good, and yours's sounds likes it's very good, and you continue using it for pre-cleaning, the benefits of UT will only be incremental and only for some records.
I tend to sweat too many details by most people's estimation, and obsess over reproducible results. I've just been working from more limited information until now, and was attempting what I understood to be a safe attempt at extended "scrubbing" while doing programming work.

I've ordered the adjustable voltage PSU you recommended, and will try the 9V setting for 2 records, as that would be under the threshold of the calculation from your book, while still being over the 0.5rpm lower limit. Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Even if AIVS claims their formula leaves nothing behind, I'm too OCD to not do a final rinse pass.
Easy enough to check. Place a couple drops of the distilled water you use with no chemical and a couple drops of the AIVS diluted/prepare solution on a clean hard smooth surface - like glass and allow them to evaporate. Is there any difference between the diluted in-use AIVS with the pure distilled water? If the AIVS shows no difference, the vendor claim is accurate. Note that the distilled water may leave a slight ring - its normal, it's the water pulling contaminates from the air. Also, you will probably note that the AVIS in-use solution beads-up similar to the water. The AIVS enzyme cleaner contains no surfactant wetting agent
will try the 9V setting for 2 records, as that would be under the threshold of the calculation from your book, while still being over the 0.5rpm lower limit
The 0.5-rpm is not the lower limit - that is the target rpm for best cleaning based on various user's experience. Otherwise, if the spinner you bought is like others, you will likely end up at 3VDC and the spinner at 1 to 1.5-rpm.
,
 
  • Like
Reactions: tima
OK, my motor does 0.63rpm at 4.5V, and 0.33rpm at 3V. I'm inclined to go with the slightly faster speed to make sure the grooves stay wet, and from extra paranoia about potential damage, but both are about equally close to that 0.5 target. This is the unit I ordered, which has clearly been altered over time based on old reviews. It even came in a little cheap metal suitcase for some strange reason as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVLY7HS

I used all of the provided washers to try to get the closest record further from the tank wall (about 1.5"), then used all of the extra label protectors to keep the records about 1.5" apart (I believe 1" should be adequate for 60khz, but more space can't hurt). That's all the spindle space this has. The thread pitch for raising and lowering the motor probably should have been wider to lessen the amount of time you have to stand there turning it, but it works. Running a test now with the records that I probably damaged just in case it cleans up at all. If it winds up worse, well it's already too noisy to record, so better to test with something I already ruined, right?

EDIT: Haven't checked the sound of the record, but ran them through another 48 minute nonstop run. Bath temp started at 67F, ended at 81F. Definitely working, but still beneath the danger temperatures.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Neil.Antin
EDIT: Haven't checked the sound of the record, but ran them through another 48 minute nonstop run. Bath temp started at 67F, ended at 81F. Definitely working, but still beneath the danger temperatures.
Why are you cleaning for 48-min? If the record is not cleaned in 20-min, additional time offers limited benefit and 30-min should be your upper max. However, based on the rpm, try to time for an even number of rotations so the record is equally cleaned. Example; at 0.63-rpm 15-revolutions is (15/0.63) = 23.81-min, close enough to 24-min.

With a 14F delta-T after 48-min, the tank does not have much power. Assuming 50% losses to the ambient, the tank has about 90W power. You would be better off pre-heating the fluid to 80F and finish after 20-30min at about 90F. Temperature helps cleaning.

FYI: The KLAudio is 40-kHz at 200W into about 0.7-L, and it does spin the record relatively quickly (it needs too) recalling that as the kHz decrease the power needed for cavitation decrease. In comparison, the Degritter at 120-kHz peaks at 300W into 1.4-L and after sequential 5-min cleaning cycles will heat the bath enough to trigger a forced cooldown mode.
 
Why are you cleaning for 48-min? If the record is not cleaned in 20-min, additional time offers limited benefit and 30-min should be your upper max. However, based on the rpm, try to time for an even number of rotations so the record is equally cleaned. Example; at 0.63-rpm 15-revolutions is (15/0.63) = 23.81-min, close enough to 24-min.

With a 14F delta-T after 48-min, the tank does not have much power. Assuming 50% losses to the ambient, the tank has about 90W power. You would be better off pre-heating the fluid to 80F and finish after 20-30min at about 90F. Temperature helps cleaning.

FYI: The KLAudio is 40-kHz at 200W into about 0.7-L, and it does spin the record relatively quickly (it needs too) recalling that as the kHz decrease the power needed for cavitation decrease. In comparison, the Degritter at 120-kHz peaks at 300W into 1.4-L and after sequential 5-min cleaning cycles will heat the bath enough to trigger a forced cooldown mode.
The 48 minute session was a sanity check. You had asked about the temperature of the bath when I'd done that time previously with the old motor (which ran at 5rph, this 4 rotations in 48 minutes). I intend to target full rotations in the future. 24 minutes does sound ideal.

I used to use the heater years ago. I'll keep your suggestion in mind for future genuine cleaning attempts. Again, the long session was just to verify that the tank was heating from the transducers alone as you'd asked.

I'll break out my Kill-A-Watt to see if I can verify the power draw. I guess the question becomes if that 90W is even adequate or not.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Neil.Antin
Just checked the power draw on my Sonix IV ST136H. Without the heater but just running cavitation, it's 104W. With the heater its 380W. So sounds like your 90W estimate is likely correct. Is that adequate? Does that seem more or less likely to cause permanent damage?

From what I can find about the Elmasonic unit, it seems to run at 180W/150W. I'm guessing different draw for different frequency transducers? If so, that's more power for the 37kHz cycle than I'm getting for 60kHz. Allegedly my unit is supposed to have an input draw of 180W as well, so either that's a drastic estimate, or something may be very wrong with my machine. I don't really have a basis for comparison here.

Based on the history of the diyaudio.com thread, I've had the Sonix IV unit for roughly 9 years. Should I even bother with it? The tinkering has been educational, and thus interesting in that regard, but am I just chasing my tail uselessly even bothering with it in conjunction with the surfactant treatment on the Okki Nokki?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Neil.Antin
Just checked the power draw on my Sonix IV ST136H. Without the heater but just running cavitation, it's 104W. With the heater its 380W. So sounds like your 90W estimate is likely correct. Is that adequate? Does that seem more or less likely to cause permanent damage?

From what I can find about the Elmasonic unit, it seems to run at 180W/150W. I'm guessing different draw for different frequency transducers? If so, that's more power for the 37kHz cycle than I'm getting for 60kHz. Allegedly my unit is supposed to have an input draw of 180W as well, so either that's a drastic estimate, or something may be very wrong with my machine. I don't really have a basis for comparison here.

Based on the history of the diyaudio.com thread, I've had the Sonix IV unit for roughly 9 years. Should I even bother with it? The tinkering has been educational, and thus interesting in that regard, but am I just chasing my tail uselessly even bothering with it in conjunction with the surfactant treatment on the Okki Nokki?

The 104W power draw would be about right considering that the power supply is not 100% efficient. The Elmasonic P60H which is a 6-L dual frequency machine 37/80-kHz PP_Elmasonic_P60H_EN.pdf (elma-ultrasonic.com) is rated 180W at 120VAC, but also a peak power of 720W. The unit has multiple operating modes including a pulse mode, a mode that automatically switches frequency and variable power. The Elmasonic's are powerful machines with accurate ratings since from working with people the tank bath heats up accordingly. For people who want to serial clean lots of records, a radiator is added to the pump/filter system to keep the Elmasonic P-series tank temp <100F.

As far as your unit being rated at 180W, I have seen the same Chinese ultrasonic transducer rated three different ways at three different sites: rated 35W, 50W and 60W. It could be that the rating for your unit is overly optimistic or one of the transducers is no longer functioning. Since you never measured the power draw before, it's hard to tell which is right.

However, regardless, the aluminum foil test showed that there is cavitation, and enough to dimple the aluminum and put a few holes. So, if you spin very slowly was you did, as long as you did, there is enough power to damage a record, especially near the bottom of the tank where the cavitation intensity can be highest. So, your UT tank could compliment your Okki Nokki by removing some very small tenacious particles that the two-chemical surfactant cleaning process misses. This is why I added an acid to the manual-sink method, the acid does chemically what the UT does with power. But the acid can damage the Okki Nokki.

Here are two options to consider:

Use your current two-surfactants cleaning process with the Okki Nokki and do final clean step with your UT tank using a no-rinse cleaning solution concentration, and dry with your Okki Nokki. If you are concerned, you can always add a quick rinse.

Use your current two-surfactants cleaning process with the Okki Nokki and then play the record. If it is noisy - clicks and some pops, then clean that record with the UT tank.

Which option to use all depends on the initial record condition. If it's a used record, you probably want to add the UT step as the normal cleaning process. If it's a new record and the record sleeve is paper, you probably want to add the UT step as the normal cleaning process. However, if it's a new record, in a poly record sleeve, you want to forgo the UT clean step and just see how the records sounds. Based, your current two-chemical surfactant cleaning process with the Okki Nokki, the added UT step is not always going to improve the record.

FYI - when I manual-sink clean, I clean all records the same way with the three-chemicals: Liquinox, Citranox and Tergitol 15-S-9, but the acid step only adds 2-minutes to the process. Your UT cleaning step is going to be as much as 24-min, but that 24-min is hands-off.

Hope this is of some help,

Neil
 
  • Like
Reactions: Packgrog
@abeidrov,

Responding to your question: "If I have both Kirmuss and Degritter, can I use Kirmuss for a pre-clean step? And what would be the best way to do it: one 5 minute cycle with applying his surfactant to the record? Shall I also add 40ml of 70% IPA to the tank?"

I am going to give you an answer that comes right out of this free book Chapter XIV- Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records-3rd Edition - The Vinyl Press which discusses a cleaning process using two UT tanks, one for pre-clean and the other for final clean/rinse.

Pre-Clean with Kirmuss UT:

Use Tergitol 15-S-9 at 0.025% with 2.5% alcohol in distilled or demineralized water (DIW). If there is too much carryover to the DG (you will see it as foam), cut the Tergitol 15-S-9 back to 0.0150%. If you cannot purchase Tergitol 15-S-9 in Moscow, you can substitute Polysorbate 20. When preparing cleaning solutions, add the surfactants first then add the alcohol.

When preparing this cleaning solution, you are better off preparing 1-gallon jugs. Pour off about 200-ml DIW to make room for the alcohol. Assuming your-1-gallon container is UK/EU sized = 4546-ml. 0.025% Tergitol (or Polysorbate) is (0.00025)(4546) = ~1 ml (close enough). Disposable 3-ml pipettes are good for adding this amount. Calculate the amount of alcohol as addressed in the book VIII.8.7, so if using 70% IPA, (2.5%/70%)(4546-ml) = 160-ml (close enough).

Cleaning process time is enough to get an equal number of revolutions for total accumulated time of about 5-10-min. If the record spins about 1.5-rpm, the minimum time is 6-min which equals 9 full rotations, or 8-min for 12 full rotations.

Note: The Tergitol concentration above is a little bit higher than what @tima uses, and this is intentional since the Kirmuss UT does not have the power or options the Elmasonic P-series has.

Note: You could apply the above cleaning solution directly to the record with a brush. That is not very convenient, and it compromises what the UT can do - chemistry will improve the cleaning process (just not too much chemistry). I perceive what your goal is a smooth fast process. Put the record in the Kirmuss spinner, spin for 6-8 min; remove and final clean/dry with the DG (Medium is about 3-min clean time + dry time).

Note: Not knowing what is in the Kirmuss cleaning solution I make no recommendations for its use, and the 40-ml of 70% IPA does very little.

Final-Clean with DG UT:

From Table XXIII Nalgene™ Dropper Bottle Use for Degritter™ & Humminguru™, use the first row - No-rinse with minimal wetting and little or no foam., 25-30 ppm, (0.0025-0.003%) with 2.5% IPA or just use 2.5% IPA.

Cleaning Process time for the DG is MEDIUM, drying is variable based on your ambient humidity/dewpoint.

Note: 2.5% Alcohol is safe, the flashpoint (~57C) is well above anything you would experience - see the book Figure 36 – Alcohol + Water Flashpoint Temperature.

Note: Alcohol will evaporate from water faster from than the water evaporates, but the Kirmuss and DG are not open tanks, and you are not filtering for extended bath life. DIY UT with fine filtration, the bath can last upwards of a month.

Good Luck,

Neil
 
  • Like
Reactions: tima and abeidrov
@abeidrov,



I am going to give you an answer that comes right out of this free book Chapter XIV- Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records-3rd Edition - The Vinyl Press which discusses a cleaning process using two UT tanks, one for pre-clean and the other for final clean/rinse.

Pre-Clean with Kirmuss UT:

Use Tergitol 15-S-9 at 0.025% with 2.5% alcohol in distilled or demineralized water (DIW). If there is too much carryover to the DG (you will see it as foam), cut the Tergitol 15-S-9 back to 0.0150%. If you cannot purchase Tergitol 15-S-9 in Moscow, you can substitute Polysorbate 20. When preparing cleaning solutions, add the surfactants first then add the alcohol.

When preparing this cleaning solution, you are better off preparing 1-gallon jugs. Pour off about 200-ml DIW to make room for the alcohol. Assuming your-1-gallon container is UK/EU sized = 4546-ml. 0.025% Tergitol (or Polysorbate) is (0.00025)(4546) = ~1 ml (close enough). Disposable 3-ml pipettes are good for adding this amount. Calculate the amount of alcohol as addressed in the book VIII.8.7, so if using 70% IPA, (2.5%/70%)(4546-ml) = 160-ml (close enough).

Cleaning process time is enough to get an equal number of revolutions for total accumulated time of about 5-10-min. If the record spins about 1.5-rpm, the minimum time is 6-min which equals 9 full rotations, or 8-min for 12 full rotations.

Note: The Tergitol concentration above is a little bit higher than what @tima uses, and this is intentional since the Kirmuss UT does not have the power or options the Elmasonic P-series has.

Note: You could apply the above cleaning solution directly to the record with a brush. That is not very convenient, and it compromises what the UT can do - chemistry will improve the cleaning process (just not too much chemistry). I perceive what your goal is a smooth fast process. Put the record in the Kirmuss spinner, spin for 6-8 min; remove and final clean/dry with the DG (Medium is about 3-min clean time + dry time).

Note: Not knowing what is in the Kirmuss cleaning solution I make no recommendations for its use, and the 40-ml of 70% IPA does very little.

Final-Clean with DG UT:

From Table XXIII Nalgene™ Dropper Bottle Use for Degritter™ & Humminguru™, use the first row - No-rinse with minimal wetting and little or no foam., 25-30 ppm, (0.0025-0.003%) with 2.5% IPA or just use 2.5% IPA.

Cleaning Process time for the DG is MEDIUM, drying is variable based on your ambient humidity/dewpoint.

Note: 2.5% Alcohol is safe, the flashpoint (~57C) is well above anything you would experience - see the book Figure 36 – Alcohol + Water Flashpoint Temperature.

Note: Alcohol will evaporate from water faster from than the water evaporates, but the Kirmuss and DG are not open tanks, and you are not filtering for extended bath life. DIY UT with fine filtration, the bath can last upwards of a month.

Good Luck,

Neil
This is very helpful, thanks a lot!

On another subject. I‘ve come across this video:
The guy claims, that he killed a record as a result of 12 cleaning 5 minute cycles in Humminguru machine. That got me very worried, as I’ve just cleaned several very expensive records and probably did between 8 and 10 5 minutes cycles in Kirmuss. I wanted to be very thorough:eek: The tank in Kirmuss is much larger compared to the one in Humminguru, but still, do you think that 8 or more cycles in Kirmuss can actually damage a record?

Thanks in advance,
Aziz
 
he guy claims, that he killed a record as a result of 12 cleaning 5 minute cycles in Humminguru machine. That got me very worried, as I’ve just cleaned several very expensive records and probably did between 8 and 10 5 minutes cycles in Kirmuss. I wanted to be very thorough:eek: The tank in Kirmuss is much larger compared to the one in Humminguru, but still, do you think that 8 or more cycles in Kirmuss can actually damage a record?

I think you will always find stuff like this youtube video. It does more harm than good, imo. I'm confident you will get better information here.

I did not have the patience to spend a full 30 minutes with that leisurely video presentation.

Depends on a lot of factors. One is why I asked what is the peak power on the Kirmuss? (specs) I saw reference to 200 Watts but unclear what that is. How hot was the water in the Kirmuss? Was the cleaning continuous or was there time between cycles? Was the water changed between cycles? Same questions apply to Humminguru. I saw the guy in the video hold up a bottle but could not understand him when he said the name of the cleaner.

Without trying to be a smarty, since your question is after the fact, one suggestion is to know your protocol, each step, then use it on a few less than very expensive records to test it and prove to yourself that is meeting expectations.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Neil.Antin
The water was below 94 deg F (34 deg C) if the temperature bare on Kirmuss machine is accurate, and I had 1-3 minutes break between first 5 cycles, then probably a 30 minutes break before doing another 3 to 5 cycles.
 
I am really upset now and a little bit angry at this guy in a white lab coat. I always get the white foam and keep repeating the cycles hoping it will diminish after the next one, but it does not change. So you keep thinking: ok, just one more cycle and it will go away, but it doesn’t… One of the records, I cleaned yesterday is LZII Bob Ludwig cut in NM! This is the most expensive record I own and if I damaged it…
Well, time to move to Degritter.
 
I always get the white foam and keep repeating the cycles hoping it will diminish after the next one, but it does not change.

If the Kirmuss solution is the same for each cycle, then it may not diminish. Presumably the solution will continue to acquire particulate if there is not a decent filter.
Do you have a way to rinse?
 
If the Kirmuss solution is the same for each cycle, then it may not diminish. Presumably the solution will continue to acquire particulate if there is not a decent filter.
Do you have a way to rinse?
No, I have just Kirmuss unit and nothing else. I do not clean a lot, maybe 3 or 4 records per session, and the water in the tank always looks very clean.
 
Looks clean can be deceptive. It might be worthwhile to acquire a TDS meter for measuring dissolved solids, that way you can keep track of when to change the water. I use the COM-100 from HM Digital. It measures temperature, electrical conductivity and ppm of disolved solids. It is among the more accurate meters. Lot's of cheap ones.


Fwiw, the Degritter has a filter though it is kinda mediocre. Better than no filter.

Rinsing is important. I think Degritter has a way to swap water tanks so one can contain fresh distilled water for a rinse.

You have a nice analog setup -- your records deserve it. :)
 

About us

  • What’s Best Forum is THE forum for high end audio, product reviews, advice and sharing experiences on the best of everything else. This is THE place where audiophiles and audio companies discuss vintage, contemporary and new audio products, music servers, music streamers, computer audio, digital-to-analog converters, turntables, phono stages, cartridges, reel-to-reel tape machines, speakers, headphones and tube and solid-state amplification. Founded in 2010 What’s Best Forum invites intelligent and courteous people of all interests and backgrounds to describe and discuss the best of everything. From beginners to life-long hobbyists to industry professionals, we enjoy learning about new things and meeting new people, and participating in spirited debates.

Quick Navigation

User Menu